aurfalien

Hi, Well I've a few good ones; How to Build Scale Models Painting and Finishing Scale Models But honestly nothing beats this forum. The feed back and info already on here is priceless.

What jwrass says +1. I myself am preferring a stiffer brush for the control and granularity they offer. I'm hooked on the Artist's Loft Firenze line at Micheals. There flat line in particular is very cool. Nice long green wooden handle, feels very nice on your finger tips. Oh and it soaks up paint like no ones biz. I've seen other brushes with cool bristles but having rubbery ergonomic handles which feel awkward in hand. It's like they try to make it a computer mouse or something, totally weird.

One thing to note, so I decided to use a brush full of Liquitex Flow Aid rather then Tamiya Thinner and hmmm, ... not bad. The paint actually flows much better and doesn't dry as fast. I mixed it in a palate with a few drops of paint, say 3 off a tooth pick. The Tamiya Thinner contains alcohol so the paint dries very quickly depending on how much is added. Or so I've noticed. At any rate, still looking forward to a more simplified work flow. Plus my wife loves hobbies and crafts and she may want to paint various things. I imagine she would find Vallejo easier to deal with than Tamiya. That is if practice holds up to theory.

Yep that's most likely what happened, I just re read your post, thanks a lot for this. And Doobie, yes it felt thick in certain places which happen to be were the spots in question are. I've been buffing/wet sanding and am able to fix it. At least now I know.

Hi and MANY THANKS for all this. You guys are cool! Yea Tamiya is one pricy cookie right, I'll look for the FBS stuff. I'm prolly gonna wait until the tape is all used up. I suspect its something I did wrong.

Well, odd enough they are Tamiya TS which are lacquers no?

Hi and thanks for the shnoz oil suggestion. Kinda gross though, I'll pass tnx The paint job is about 2 weeks old or so, gotta be cured by now?

The aircraft and gap filling seem like great applications. I also imagine building race car frames from it. I dunno, seems very cool to me. Imagine mastering it and being able to lay down what ever you want, seems kinda bitchen.

Well I was deathly afraid pulling before total paint dry so a few days. I'm using Tamiya TS sprays. The residue is thin dulling the otherwise shiny paint.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Just my luck, prolly the only one having residue issue with it. Man this first build has been fun and PITA at the same time.

Interesting; http://www.michaels.com/3doodler-2.0-3d-printing-pen/10434855.html I suppose one could make frames, suspension parts etc... What do you all think? Check out the video;

Hi, Before I mess up a very hard earned paint job, I was wondering what you all remove Tamiya Tape residue with? I was gonna wet sand with 12000 grit cloth or just rub it off gently with a very soft cloth. At least the tape didn't pull up paint with it which I had happen to me when using regular masking tape, OMG what a nightmare that was!

Wow, that engine bay brings back fond memories. In fact its seared in memory, countless hours working over and under that engine.

Well its not that I didn't like em, its that I had no coupons like what Michaels offer which are simply killer. Michaels even carries models etc...

Wow, thanks jwrass, very very cool info. I'll look for that type of brush. I plan to brush a 1" x 6" panel to see what happens. I stopped off in a Blicks Art Supply and didn't like it much, will hit Michaels tomorrow. Would you get the white ones; http://www.michaels.com/M10133609.html Or the beige ones; http://www.michaels.com/craft-smart-variety-brush-set-golden-taklon-3-piece/10408283.html#start=31 Yup, I'm getting hung up in premix phase and will instead dip in the pot, then thin when needed. I just don't like a dirty thinner is all. Perhaps I'll poor /dropper some thinner in my palette and dip from there. I also read that some one analyzed Tamiya Thinner and found it to be a simple blend of alcohol, water and fragrance. Now the devil is in the details with regards to what parts of each Still I am looking forward in testing Vallejo. If it works as good as the Intrawebs say, then it would simplify workflow and be a joy to brush paint. I mean ready to brush paint out the bottle, wow man! No stupid toothpicks/etc to mix with, no stupid paper towels as I prefer keeping a very clean work area. My test will be to brush paint a Monogram 904 or a Cobra body using Vallejo, that is once I spray on a good primer.

Guys, stay on point here. This is critical work that the Earth is depending on. Tnx!

I was thinking that using a retarder with Tamiya Acrylics would be a very good idea. Thinning it with there's or 99% alcohol causes it to dry faster so a retarder would be cool. I'm going to start farting around more with FlowAid as it doesn't seem to have alcohol but I did notice that it can strip Tamiya Acrylics so it must right? Still, can't wait for my Vallejo sample pack to arrive. The amount of noodling needed in getting Tamiya to brush well seems pretty time consuming, not to mention clean up time.

So I went down to my LHS and we feel that its prudent to try a few before exchanging my entire Tamiya set being 33 some odd paints. I'm really looking forward in trying em out and will do so on an entire body, yep that's right you heard it here first Since I am getting in a good spot with Tamiyas, I will also try em on a large swath of body to see. What I've learned with Tamiya Acrylics; 1) Stir the bottle gently rather then shake. I even used bee bees to agitate and all that did was introduce tiny air bubbles. Not to mention create a mess in the bottle cap, yuk! 2) Thin with about 1:1 Tamiya Thinner in a palette. I was starting to use 99% alcohol but will keep with Tamiyas Thinner until I've mastered it. 3) Apply about 4 thin coats letting each dry well. 4) Use a high quality brush as the bristles hold the paint well and stroke lines are reduced substantially when compared to seemingly softer synthetic brushes. I'm using an Artist Loft Firenze brush for this which is very very cool. With a Michaels coupon its not to much damage. I'll prolly get a few more in various sizes. ** Brush care is critical, I dip my dry brush in the thinner working it in and then slowly work in the paint. I clean it with water, then 99% alcohol then back in water so no residue is left. At any rate thanks to all for the replies, very helpful as usual and one that I've come to expect from this high quality forum!

Curious, when applying Vallejo paints for brushing, and I'm assuming you are using there model paint line with the white caps, do you thin or retard them in any way?

Hi fseva, Here is the bottle, SafeWay brand.

Hi jwrass, no problems at all. I mean you are adding to the discussion. And I know you have oils down pat, they flow better and have more pigment. When I used to water color and do oils, I always liked oils better. At any rate, the Vallejos seem like the very best of acrylic based model paint. Perhaps worth a shot?

Hi, Just an update to this thread, The Fisher 312P took the V12 and not boxer, which the HRM 330P4 engine/tranny will work just fine with. So we have a solution to an engine kit for what seems like the only 1/24 scale 312P kit around. Pretty excited about this.

So my LHS will credit me for my 30 or so Tamiyas towards the Vallejos. Later this evening I will seriously ponder this idea. I mean my paint jobs finally look how I wish them but with great effort in thinning, mixing and multiple coats. Based on a few YouTubes, the Vallejos seem perfect out the bottle.

Hi fseva, I find it at Vons and will post a pic later tonight. I think it runs me ~$3 for 16oz.

Oh, thanks southpier, I was more interested in brush painting methods. For spray, I use rattle cans for now.