Can-Con

Simple solution for lowering, , , cut the mounting pins off and mount them up higher. Probably could mount them a bit lower if you want to raise the van up a bit for some reason too.

I think we'll see a lot more built like this then like the box art. 😉

Shape is right but the grille and bumpers are a completely different design.

Ah, I see, you need it to be wide enough for the cap. Got it. 👍

Those would be all the same hotrod parts as in this kit, right Dave?

Yea, the grille wraps right around to the wheel opening but you could take a second grille, cut it up and add that part.

They're gonna sell a bunch of those. Van models are all about the paint, interior and customizing, not the engine since most van kits don't have opening hoods and even when they do open, what's the point? you can't see anything anyway. New '70s Chevy van with opening doors, including the slider on the side? If you don't want one don't worry about it. I'm sure there are plenty who will. Or to put it another way , , Would you buy a 1/8 figure kit of a Demogorgon? Most here wouldn't but the ST fans will. Same thing with van. The ST fans will buy them up no matter if it has an engine or a 200 piece frame or not . They'll buy all the kits up you guys leave and then some.

I'd bet it is.

Take another closer look, Jurgen. The inner walls of the box are exactly the same on that kit as the regular stepside kit. In the kit, as on the real trucks the outer fiberglass skins were just added to the regular box in place of the regular fenders. They are exactly correct, do not need to be modified at all.

I'm sure it will have the Meteor grille as all the issues of the kit I've ever seen have it. But, it's not a complete grille. It's missing the ends that wrap around the sides of the fenders, never had them.

I was originally very exited when these kits were announced but when I found out the grille/bumper area was out of scale it kinda threw water on my plans. I actually did measure the grille of a real '84 C-20 pickup one of my uncles has a few months ago and found it to me almost exactly 70" across the top of the grille. I don't have one of those kits but I do nave a few MPC/AMT C-10s and found that they're about the right width or possibly a hair wider. Pics I've seen show the Revell grilles are noticeably wider then the MPC. That said, I probably will eventually will build a couple of these, more likely if they bring out a pickup but as it stands now I can wait.

Did that in the late '70s when I was in my early teens. It's something I'd like to try again on something but not by hand with Testors bottle paints.

The kit itself is NOT actually underscale, it's just too short. When I built my AMT '70 restoration last year I did comparisons with it, the MPC '69 shown and the Revell '69 and found they're all almost exactly the same width but the MPC was designed to use the chassis MPC had used for earlier Mustangs since their '66 so it was too short. I found that if I used another MPC body and made the right cuts through the doors and roof of both and grafted the longer halves back together I would have one very nice '69 Mustang body and one very funky short '69 Mustang body.😉

Got this far before I had to go for surgery.

Just depends on your build style. Personally I'll have 2 of the AMT '66 Mustangs on the go soon and I'll just replace the inner fenders. I'm sure what's in the box will be just fine for 95% of the people who actually buy the kit.

Hubcap problem solved, Mark. 😉

Thanks guys. Yea, I guess you really never know until it happens. I think this means we should just build what we want and have some fun while we can. 😄

Yes, Detail Master makes 2 types. One is very simple, the other is quite difficult and it would be a very good idea to have a photoetch bender on hand for them.

Thanks Andy. 👍🙂

Thanks Greg. 👍🙂

Hight BP. a month ago at my regular prescription renewal I mentioned to the Doctor my pulse was running slow, around 40-45 BPM so he scheduled an MRI which I went for Tuesday afternoon [after walking over 2 miles at work that morning] Well they really didn't like that heart rate [35-40 at the time] and kept me in. Not a plumbing problem but the signals from the top of my heart weren't getting to the bottom 1/2 correctly. Been that way for over a year, apparently. So now I have a spanking new pacemaker , not the Peterbilt kind either. SO, now have a month off work to recuperate. Unfortunately no driving for a couple weeks either.

Are you gonna do something with the inner front fenders, Greg?

I've been just using iso alcohol since the late '80s. It's always worked fine for me.

Got the old '65 Elky body stripped as well as I could and wet sanded some more off. Then I cut it apart down the back line of the door and strait across the roof at the vent windows. Added some strips to the front of the roof and back of the door openings for gluing surfaces. Did the same cuts with the '64 hardtop body. They fit together pretty well. All the character lines and widths lined up. Only problem was the hardtop doors were a touch thicker but nothing a couple minutes of filing didn't fix. Got everything lined up and clamped. Let it sit for a few hours and now I have a workable body. Needs some cleanup and a bit of un-needed trim removed but I think it looks pretty good. Also modified the chassis plate to use with the Elky body. I could have used the old one but life's a bit simpler starting with fresh plastic, right? Just needed to trim off the top of the rear wheel wells and some of the large locating posts at the back and it fir right in.

Personally, as I've said before, alI really want to do is build the custom version on the box. so I don't really need a new kit. A used one even with all the scripts and door handles removed would work for me but I do see why some would want a squeaky new kit. [and sorry, I don't believe George Barris had anything to do with the custom version of that kit even fore a minute. No gold lame or leopard skin roof covering anywhere 😉]