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Everything posted by Can-Con
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Thinkful Wishing about Round2 Models, future Kits.
Can-Con replied to stavanzer's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Oh yea. A lot of cowboys had their way with that tooling. Doesn't help that it started off as the '67/'68 kit either. They tried but the front fenders and rear 1/4s are just too different between the years to make it work on that kit. -
I have to. I'm not very creative and don't have much for skills so I need every advantage I can get. 😉😁
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Tamiya clear blue for windows tinting
Can-Con replied to gtx6970's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Yes. I've done it several times. -
Here's the instructions from the Revell Mustang LL kit. Originally from the late '70s. BTW, the first 15 illustrations could be directly from their Chevy Monza and/or Pontiac Sunbird with no alterations as they were exactly the same parts except for the wheel outers.
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1972 Challenger parts needed!
Can-Con replied to usmc_vette1984's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I'd also suggest getting the Lindberg kit and conversion parts from Hart's Parts [just because they look better then the kit front and back ends] and using the chassis from the AMT '70. I don't see a listing for a '72 conversion but I do see a '73. I'd go with that and use the AMT or Lindberg bumpers without the guards. You COULD just go with the AMT convertible kit and use the separate hardtop but the shape of the top of the side window opening is way off , too rounded. But, anyway, here's a link to another thread discussing the Lindberg kit with some pics so you can see what it looks like. -
Never built a car kit Revell tooled up in the late '70s early '80s have ya? 😁 EVERY model company has good and bad kits.
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Thinkful Wishing about Round2 Models, future Kits.
Can-Con replied to stavanzer's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
I'm still thoroughly convinced Racing Champions only bought Ertl [AMT/MPC] for the NASCAR licensing and everything else was disposable, including everything associated with plastic models. But, no, the MPC '69 Camaro may be bad but nothing is "Monogram '69 Camaro bad". 😄 -
Thinkful Wishing about Round2 Models, future Kits.
Can-Con replied to stavanzer's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Love to see that reissued as an RCMP cruiser but the licensing may be tricky. IIRC, last I heard, Disney held the rights to the I.P and likenesses. I honestly don't remember seeing a B-body RCMP cruiser back then, they generally used full size cars but it would still be pretty cool. -
That steering wheel seems to have been available as a "stand alone" option in '69 as N34 - 1 Steering Wheel - Wood Grained Plastic Here's links to a couple really good 1st gen Camaro reference sites. http://camaros.org/index.shtml https://camaroworld.macswebs.com/home.html
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Tamiya clear blue for windows tinting
Can-Con replied to gtx6970's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
The Tamiya sprays are lacquer, usually too hot for bare plastic but the hobby paints are milder. You can get away with them on a bare plastic body most of the time but not clear. The bottle paints [X-] are acrylic. won't hurt the plastic. -
This is what you get when you have a billionaire with a car company and his 4 year old hands him a picture he just drew and says "Daddy, build this!" 🙄
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They're all the same GT-350 kit, just different decals and boxes except the original '65 had the G/T wheels. Other then that they're all the exact same kit.
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You can't really judge a kit by the maker in that broad of terms. Most of the model companies have been in business for many decades and still reissue a variety of kits from all of them, right from the early '60s to brand new freshly designed kits so the quality varies wildly. You pretty well have to take each kit on it's own merit. Just ask on this forum about any kit you're interested in and you'll get a lot better answers.
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Clear Coat On Decals To Stop Yellowing?
Can-Con replied to oldcarfan's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Don't know about decals but I do have an AMT '59 Elky that I used good old Testors bottle paint enamel white on the roof and around the bed. I cleared it with Tamiya acrylic X-22 and it hasn't yellowed. The white Testors enamel is notorious for yellowing but it was painted over 30 years ago and is still as white as when I painted it. -
Same kits as the Revell kits, different box, decals and some different parts in some versions. As far as I can tell, the original first Monogram GT-350 was the only one of them to have the Cragar G/T wheels. After that they all got the Magnum 500s except for the racing Torque Thrusts in the 350-R kits. All these kits were re-boxed several times as both Revell and Monogram since first released in the mid-'80s.
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Looks good but, just an FYI, don't know if it matters to you but your headlight lenses are on their sides. The close together lines supposed to go up and down, the wider apart ones go across.
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Upcoming revell kit the 78 jeep j-10 with camper
Can-Con replied to 66c10's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
They did the last time the kit was reissued. Both older grilles and the Cherokee body. -
Mustang 5-spoke mags/tires needed; poss. 2009 (for replica build)
Can-Con replied to Wickersham Humble's topic in Wanted!
OK, good. You need the wheels from this kit,, Or this one,, -
No, it's definitely not as well detailed as the 1/24 Revell/Monogram kit but it is 1/25 scale which some of us prefer. Some people say the shape of the body is more accurate then the Monogram kit but I couldn't really say as to that.
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Tamiya clear blue for windows tinting
Can-Con replied to gtx6970's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Definitely practice.👍 -
Tamiya clear blue for windows tinting
Can-Con replied to gtx6970's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I've been tinting my windows with Tamiya clears for about 30 years now. Just airbrush it on like any other paint but in thin, dry coats. don't even try to get a wet coat on with the tinted color. Apply as many light coats as needed for the desired darkness you want. It should look foggy and dull when done. Don't worry about that right now. Let completely dry, a day or two at least then airbrush a couple coats of clear [X-22] It will look a lot better after that. let dry and maybe a couple more coats of X-22. Let dry for a couple days again and you can wet sand and polish out like any other paint. Just like painting a body. -
Not gonna get this one completely finished this weekend but almost , , Bed's on and have the floor assembled. Struts are made from aluminum tube and brass rod and function just as planned. Still a few things to attack. I'm casting some new bumpers so I'll have a bunch extras for other projects. Gotta finish the exhaust, but the mirrors on, battery in etc.
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Looks like that's exactly what it is. easy to do, just ground all the grille mesh out of the surround and add a couple bars. I'd suggest thin aluminum tubing or rod for the bars.