Sidney Schwartz

I've not had any problems using ca glue on painted pieces, and I don't bother to scrape the paint off unless it's to get the parts to fit better. I prefer the thicker, "gap filling" ca glue, partly because it takes slightly longer to set. I can apply it to one part and then fit the parts together. This avoids getting the glue on the surfaces that show. I also use two-part expoxy glue for pieces that may be subject to more than usual stresses. Canopy glue for clear parts, and plain old Elmers for test building.

Couple of days, at least. So are the Tamiya TS-35 and others in that line considered high gloss paints?

Tamiya TS-35 and TS-80, both synthetic laquers, so that shouldn't be the problem. Maybe I did spray it on too thick. Looks like I may be able to sand down the clear rather than having to strip everything off.

This one was coming along so nicely, and almost finished. Body color is Tamiya Park Green, which looked great. I decided on a matte finish, so I sprayed on Tamiya flat clear. I sprayed just until it started to settle. Looks awful. I've not had this problem with their glossy clear. I've also used the flat clear on smaller bits without any problems. Any ideas on what caused this? It's so bad I'm going to have to strip it completely and start over.

Doesn't smell like ammonia, but it is definitely latex.

Same here. It's good to have the liquid stuff as a backup method. I'll stick with the toothpick/q-tip method so as not to waste any more brushes.

Ended up hand painting the seats and they came out pretty good. Got a decent result applying the Abteilung 502 liquid mask to the ends of this muffler with a toothpick. That allows me to be accurate enough so that trimming with a knife isn't needed, and the stuff comes off very easily. Only remaining problem is that if I use a brush for larger areas I can't clean the stuff off the brush. I emailed Abteilung 502 and they said to use acetone. That doesn't work at all. Neither does laquer thinner. Two brushes in the trash so far. I'm using q-tips until I find out what will clean the stuff from a brush. Anyone know?

I'm going to need suggestions on the best way to go about doing the hood on this Revell '69 Mustang. The center area of the hood is supposed to be black with a pinstripe edging. Decals are provided for the pinstripe and a portion of the outer edge of the black area (decals 1 and 3 in the pic)... The end result... So I've got to have body color, and over that a masked section of black, and bording that the decals. I'm guessing the body color gets sprayed first, but what's the best way to approach the masking and decals? The decals have to be in a very specific position, and I don't see how I'm going to mask accurately until those are on. I'm also guessing that putting masking tape over decals is a bad idea. So, spray body color, apply decals, clear coat over all, then mask and spray black? Or something else?

Beautiful...very neat! Are those photoetched door handles on the interior?

Who makes the kit? I'll bet it's not older than me. ?

Very nice. I wasn't a big Torino fan when they first came out, but it's grown on me. Is that a decent kit? Parts fit together well, etc?

Nice quatloos! ?

Thanks for noticing. ?

Don't beat around the bush. If you don't like it, just say so. ? Thanks, all. This was one of my first after getting back into the hobby after a long absence. The results are encouraging.

Thanks, all! ?

I'm even worse at taking pics than I am at building models. Several people have commented that this isn't a very good kit, and I have to agree, mostly because of poor parts fit. Also the dash looks very little like the real thing. Despite that, I like it and have ordered another one. Now that I'm familiar with it I can do a better job of fixing what's wrong. Paint is DecoArt craft paint and Tamiya clear, and didn't come out half bad, I think. Chrome is Kryon, sprayed on the large side piece and brushed on the smaller bits. Top is BMF aluminum, which I could not manage to buff very well. Thanks for looking.

All done!

Wow, that is sweet! That kit would probably cost a fortune even if I could find one.

Yes, there's a bunch of stuff that can be improved. About all I did on this one was to putty and sand where the top and bottom body halves go together. Oh, and the dash isn't even close to being accurate. Still, there's something about the kit that makes me smile. ?

Thanks! ?

Thanks...I'll check it out.

How am I doing so far? ? I've already decided to get another one of these. Now that I'm familiar with it I can do a better job of fixing the inherent problems. And it's impossible not to like the car itself.

I like the Tamiya paints very much, and they're usuall my first choice IF they have the color a want. I also often use craft paints because the selection of colors is enormous, and they're dirt cheap. This Caddy I'm finishing up is painted with Decoart craft paint I got at Michael's for less than $2. The large chrome section is Krylon. It's not bad at all. The only reason I was looking at the engine paint in this case is because I want Grabber Green specifically, and that's one of the choices.

Forgot to mention that the paint is Tamiya Mica Red. Very nice. I painted the chrome headlights white. Was that an improvement, or should I have left them alone? I'm undecided myself.

In my case I was looking at the '57 Eldorado specifically. Based on a description of the Atlantis version, it's probably a reissue of the Revell kit, which I'm just finishing up. If I decide to buy another one I'll probably stick with the Revell...doesn't look like they're hard to find. It's not a great kit, but it is fun.