swede70

Greetings, Having secured three auction items relating to period Jo-Han box art some time ago, I finally had the negatives scanned and one image printed in 12 x 18. This would be the '72 Roy Woods Racing Trans-Am Javelin, sans box lettering as again it's just the artist's illustration. The end panel/box top art in question is shown here as kit GC-2700. I worried that the negatives might not be usable for any number of reasons and hesitated to do anything at all with them, hence pleased that a nice result was obtained. Distracted/invested in other scale projects at present, always SCCA Trans-Am themed (but of course). Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Updating in discreet measure, seen would be the result of efforts to remove the dreary cast-in front license plate mounts off of this period road racer... ...before, with cast resin plugs seen employed to literally flush fill the headlamp installation in addition to the turn indicator recesses. Another set have been cast, shaped and painted in anticipation of installing such in the final project shell situated to the right. Notice too the extent of the front fender flares which otherwise are difficult to appreciate. ...while after in the wake of considerable efforts to fill out and off the raised metal platforms and for filling the remains of the plate installation points with plastic rod stock and Microballoon filler. Filing out the center mounting hole of the metal front valence/center spoiler element helps to better tuck in the same in relation to the surrounding panel work. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, A brief update this as I try to work up a reasoned accessory drive for the engine. Seen would be a combination of GMP parts and other found items to turn the alternator, the water pump as well as a combined Bendix power steering pump that also generated either vacuum or hydraulic boost to the brakes (the operation of which is something of a mystery to me). The Lane/Exact Detail crank pulley was copied in resin and used to add a third groove to it, while a very thin harmonic balancer was further added and can be discreetly made out. The stock alternator was removed from the Lane/Exact Detail Pontiac 400 V8, although enough of the mount was retained to situate the power steering pump as before. Notice the water pump pulley as well as the power steering/power brake assist pulley is oversized consistent with underturning each in anticipation of sustained high RPM operation. Also made out would be some refinements in relation to the air cleaner housing hitherto absent beneath the shaker scoop base and seal, while the carburetor and intake adapter plate situated beneath it is effectively out of sight. Better exhaust headers are being plotted, while the wiring and plumbing required is being charted consistent with seeing matters through. The last image uploaded relates somewhat futile efforts to shrink the panel gap between the back of the door(s) and each respective quarter panel for concerted tugging, pulling and twisting of the large dogleg hinge each door hangs upon. Huge success wasn't registered for the effort, although things (maybe) look a bit better. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K./Swede70

In relation to Mark's comments and questions: Concerning the work outsourced to 3 Amigos, the decals made up wouldn't constitute a full set, but rather just a handful of images that ACME didn't provide as tampo prints that might otherwise have been retained on their prefinished 1:18th diecast release. I also worried about the cost of everything, feeling it best to rely on my personal container of waterslide decal sheets collected across time to fill in the contingency/accessory decal markings with cleanly registered images on hand versus commissioning markings that I thought and feared would either be of equal quality or lesser quality at best. As things turned out, I think the product delivered by 3 Amigos is considerably better than what the late Kenny Terry was able to produce as well as anything I've received from Patto's Place in Australia. I don't think S. Lopez at 3 Amigos Decals has added what was in essence 'my' custom work order to his range of offerings, but if he's receptive to shrinking down what he has on file to 1:25th to suit your needs, I'd say approach him and go for it. He outsources his printing to another firm in the United States (3 Amigos Decals does design work in Mexico), while the print firm is very likely using technology that the home rooted or cottage industry hobbyist couldn't hope to afford or employ. I was very agreeably surprised as to how good the 3 Amigos product was and how fast the turnover proved concerning the work performed for me. I'm glad to read that you've been able to obtain the Patto's Place waterslide decal art for your 1:25th project in turn, while for mulling the qualities of a similar project in the same scale obtained from PP in the form of his '71 Penske Javelin sheet, it certainly looks clean enough for me and undoubtedly usable. Some of the 1:18th sheets I've ordered for possible use on a '70 Autodynamics Challenger project as well as a '70 AAR 'Cuda project have been less impressive, good perhaps for large solid color characters, but decidedly disappointing with regards to the smaller contingency/accessory decal markings which were clumsily rendered and of poor quality. Usually the way to go is to combine the best rendered markings/decals from a multitude of sources consistent with coming up with the strongest collection of materials that reflect the right design, color choice, size, vibrancy vs. opaqueness or transparency, reliable adhesion - and not so rare that you'd not have the option of stacking duplicate images to brighten up everything. My Dan Gurney '70 'Cuda race retirement ride has PP door numerals set slightly further apart versus what was seen early season, and even if nothing else on the PP product offering sheet was subsequently used, the solid white numeral decals worked very well and I have no complaints to register about such. In short and in sum, what works - works! - In relation to Harry's comments and advice: I just submitted a request to move a slightly lost '70 Titus Firebird thread to this subpage on the forum, hence I'll try to keep things better segregated. Until late 'we' didn't have a separate road racing section (or something close) to post within and upon in relation to the Model Car Magazine Forum, although happily for recent developments the situation has altered. For the light volume of my posts and on-again, off-again commitment to various projects, it didn't seem out of bounds to bundle my period Pontiac SCCA Trans-Am projects onto one thread given people often find individual project threads slip away and vanish should such not be routinely updated. Further up this thread people have gently asked to be directed to what was posted before, while I've tried to comply with such wishes for pasting in this and that link. A lot of my resin casting efforts also feed like-themed projects, hence when something is duplicated and themed just-so, all the Pontiac (in this instance) projects are nurtured a bit and pushed further along versus plastic kit work that reflects a person restricting their focus to a single project at a time and no other. Small batches of things cast and fabricated to support small batches of projects like-themed then, while soon I'll have the decal art for the Gray Ghost (both the 1:25th and 1:18th efforts) alternately revised or commissioned to push those projects ahead, and will likely bond the flare work to the 1:18th shell given I've developed a bit of confidence concerning how that can be done for work on the '70 Titus Firebird. I'm still learning how to do this, suffering if you will from the usual pressures of having my ambitions outpace my knowledge and/or skill set. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Just an update in brief concerning my '69 Daytona 24HR class-winning Jerry Titus/Jon Ward Firebird project based on the ACME tribute release. Fill in markings were negotiated out as custom work undertaken by 3 Amigos Decals. ...the Prestolite contingency/accessory decal has since been replaced, although most everything else is good. Done by 3 Amigos, the driver's i.d., the Sylvania Electric logo, the 'Paint by Mike Shields' lettering, as well as the odd motif seen atop the rear wheel arch opening represent new additions. Other decals are a touch tiny given they are repurposed 1:25th scale waterslides pressed into service here. Lamps to illuminate the door roundels stand to be fabricated and added soon. . ...while this would be a good view of the artwork added atop the rear wheel arch opening on either side of the model. Easily missed for reviewing period photos, I was very impressed for the effort made and the results achieved here by 3 Amigos. The chromed wheel arch trim worked up by Lane/Exact Detail has been cut out of this example, while notice too that I've tried to disguise the thickness of the panel work around the arch openings to suggest thin panel work stampings versus a clumsy and too heavy to be believed body casting. Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Finally working up the courage to bond the rear flares in place after having created urethane molds of the flares should anything go seriously wrong, here will be seen the body in primer. Some small quirks and problems still need to be seen to, but mostly it's good. Negotiating out better custom decal art will form the next step, whereas it's an odd experience for me to just apply a bit of paint and noticing dramatic changes when my usual practice is to adjust, adjust and adjust which isn't nearly so transformative if the reader understands what I'm saying. Soon the interior and chassis and roll cage will receive paint consistent with actually seeing one of my projects to a solid conclusion, and more in the way of good updates can be shared. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for your input and guidance as to the differences manifest between the variants of the 512 M and the one-off 512 F. I'd read Donohue's The Unfair Advantage and carry with me some remembrances of differences between the Kirk White/Roger Penske Racing 512 bodywork and aero configuration as contrasted to the factory cars, but really hadn't much appreciation or strict knowledge to discern the smaller frontal area of the solitary 512 F. Darn - but one refinish choice then! Again - I appreciate the interest displayed and the guidance afforded for the images posted. Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for your input. I'm not well versed in the intricacies of the 512 and it's maturation (i.e. I tried to make some edits so-prompted), although happy all the same to have an example in scale. It doesn't seem that Edison/Shocking Line lasted for so very long as a going concern, while happy to note that another passing through has been able to secure examples of interest (i.e. your Alfa Romeo 33) for not so much. Kind regards... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, For years I was half-tempted to purchase a slightly damaged example from a friend who sets up at a local toy show, although with the passage of time I've been able to secure three of these toy/diecast metal sports prototype racers. The Ferrari 512 S and 512 M typically competed against period rival Porsche 917's, while both fill the screen when viewing Steve McQueen's Solar production of Le Mans (the film then) from '71. The image above represents Swede Savage and Peter Revson NART entry at the 12 Hours of Sebring where they posted a DNF. Concerning the models, the finish on these isn't amazing, the decal work iffy at best, although they are fun shelf pieces even as 1:20th isn't a common scale. Asking prices are all over the map for these, being either $150+ (typically with complete original packaging, plus the two keys enclosed) or fetching almost nothing, with the models seen being picked up for $15-$20 tops. The third example I possess is out of sight, having been purchased for parts and the all important key. A small length of square plastic stock can be used as a surrogate key which allows one to remove the wheels, lock or unlock the doors, and access the battery tray beneath. Sort of like the Schuco metal models where one could remove the wheels of such with a special tool provided, the tiny range of Edison/Shocking Line (odd name then) Ferrari 512 models had functional headlamps and tail lamps, functional steering, opening doors/engine cover/front clip, and delicate functional suspension. One example I purchased still had it's FAO Swartz branded AA batteries inside, likely being a pricey purchase for some kiddo visiting NYC back in the day. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Very nice indeed - thanks for sharing. Mike K./Swede70

Looks very nice indeed. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

...while this would be a pair of reference images for a '68-'69 trunnion front suspension with taller, solid suspension turrets, and further, with the fenders in place. Use of a a separate lip beneath a standard Jo-Han body shell wide enough to mount panels or panel work beneath solves the problem of creating an undercut profile (where dictated or required) that nevertheless fits tightly above along the whole length of whatever assembly is worked up. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Long unenthralled with the inner fender/inner wing detail afforded by Jo-Han even within the space of their SC/Rambler tool (modified iterations included and seen further up this thread), hope exists to scratch build something that could be fit to my range of Javelin Trans-Am projects. Differences rooted in the use of and for later abandonment of the trunnion front suspension design for ball joints would be factored in, as well as subtle alteration of dimensions and quirks characteristic of the Jo-Han '68-'70 chassis versus the '71 and later chassis. Seen below is some very basic and preliminary work consistent with setting the stage, as well as a few reference images courtesy of the 1:1 restoration crowd (a '70 with the new ball joint front suspension turret design being featured here then): Back to my little scale world, a dead '69 AMX body gave it's life to afford material from atop each fender as well as the cowl area to ensure whatever might be added below will mate seamlessly to the underside of any Jo-Han Javelin shell, while the next step would be to fabricate carefully shaped fill panels to flesh out the front subframe top surfaces situated further down. If all this comes off, then the rest might be sensitively fleshed out. Early days then, and while the engineering hack is pretty ugly, at least the dimensions for such seem stable and true enough to allow for shameless experimentation. Thanks.. Mike K./Swede70

Looking very nice indeed, anticipating further progress for the topic is a favorite one. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Looks very good. The wheel color choice seems entirely appropriate, while the Hoosier sidewall markings also look the business. Thanks for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

...while this would some group shots of my later Trans-Am Javelins receiving roll cage work one at a time consistent with ensuring reasoned symmetry if nothing more. It's a bit easier if similar work is undertaken across the three seen here lest I forget lessons learned for going back and attempting to generate like results on what often came out of the same shop in-period. Some bars still need to be added, while each is a compromise given what Jo-Han afforded in terms of space within each interior. Thanks. Not a great angle, but at least efforts to ensure that the cages fill out the space afforded, that they rest tightly without strain and appear reasonably symmetrical can be appreciated at a glance. The wet sump oil pans are resin copies of the early issue part which included hardware along the mounting flange. Given I'll need to create either Aviaid extended wet sumps or Weaver Bros. dry sump pans, it's nice to have an easily replicated starting point as it's certain I'll waste a few examples learning to do what I must. Mike K./Swede70

Thanks again for the kind notice... Not hugely exciting this, but seen is a scratch built shifter platform intended to be shared across Javelin projects mated to the irregular contours of the the Jo-Han Trans-Am Javelin floor. It still needs a bit of help, although it's mostly there. Also made out is one my resin battery boxes resting quietly in the passenger's side front footwell, although some further material will be added to it. Of passing note, the interior is a very rough casting sold by a certain unsteady and less than reliable source on eBay. One can make out evidence of core shift along the driver's side door trim top facing the camera, while even more flash was witnessed when this hulk was pulled out the box it came in. No effort was made to integrate the locating tabs into the casting that otherwise cleanly site the part to structure provided by Jo-Han and hidden within the tail panel area (i.e. nothing hangs off the back of the rear parcel shelf as one would expect), while in this instance the eBay seller made a very crude effort of things consistent with roughly casting the locating tabs individually and just tossing them in the box. In 1985 this would have been state of the art, whereas in 2021, it's substandard and not worth the money. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Nice work - a good compromise given it can be hard to find suitable tires for a vintage topic even if it reflects updates consistent with what might be seen at a modern day vintage event. It's always nice too if one can introduce some turned aluminum parts or subtle photo-etched items onto a model which can help greatly to telegraph quality - something often lacking on sealed resin renditions of this or that even as costs soar. Just in short, it would be nice to have a hobby lathe, and braver still it is to do such work by hand. Your work (always) appears very clean, hence however you achieve your ends, the techniques in play clearly do what is necessary. Shuffling wheels and tires consistent with establish what's good and separating out what isn't is a constant battle with my own 1:18th scale period road racing models, while coming up with sidewall markings that represent what was appropriate in-period vs. what corporate will license now to subtly promote the brand irrespective of accuracy can be irksome if a topic calls for such. Not here though - hence just mulling things aloud. Thanks again for sharing... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, This was some material cast to help facilitate repair work and especially delicate paint work across my Javelin Trans-Am projects. In essence I could be called a masking coward given if I can break something up to do things mindlessly and cleanly - that's what I'll do! From top left, a '68-'69 standard shift boot (to be combined with the Hurst shift lever for RKE/JRT entries), plus a '70 Penske hand laid fiberglass fresh air/intake housing. The second row depicts an AMC Model 20 rear end (just half given I have a small supply of third members shared with the Dana 60 SC/Rambler tool), a '70-'72 passenger's footwell sited battery box less mounting structure, and a reasonably clean transmission crossmember given these are often glue burned on rebuilders. The bottom row is made up of a broken up standard ram air system intended to better facilitate paint work for having a separate base (two are seen upside down and scrubbed of the topside detail), plus a separate seal, air filter element and air filter lid (something that might be chromed). Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... On the topic front stated I do the same thing, hence some parallels there, while I scratch build cages for like-themed models in 1:25th and 1:18th. Happy to help (as in instruction and guidance), while some contributions to other threads would likely tap what I and others have related before without overdoing things. There is no definitive approach, but rather just whatever assemblage of insights and techniques that deliver results in total. Seen below would be a '69 Jo-Han Javelin RKE/JRT effort with a scratch built cage fashioned from plastic tube with a brass wire core, plus a pair of images from a 1:18th GMP '67 Penske Trans-Am Camaro project that needed help. No holes were drilled into the interior base, with nothing strictly tugged, pulled or squashed. PM me only if you'd wish to. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70 (a reference then to the late Swede Savage)

Thanks everyone for the input and enthusiasm both... I was shopping for Smooth-On tire resin options earlier today as this was posted, while as an alternate approach I'd never used Tamiya's TS-82 Rubber Black aerosol to contemplate the qualities of such. If all fails on the scale rubber/flexible material front, then I could just do four pairs of suitably filed and shaped halves to come up with what is witnessed below. I'll likely mark off small sections of what's seen to apply various clear coats, but also for applying/trying diluted Armor All, Vinylex, and any other products or combinations that come to mind. Note that the tire half seen is the first example pulled from the urethane mold seen higher up on this thread and was filled with the usual junk, covered with mold release, etc. I also hadn't sanded off the raised sidewall line or filed away any material from within, although most will agree the paint is pretty good stuff as would be expected of Tamiya and all they do. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Thanks for your interest... I'm not versed concerning the small range of American-tooled and produced 1:12th kits done to this time, although I do have some pie crust sidewall tires that I half-imagined were 1957 Chevrolet issue. Helpful was the purchase at an area toy show of a bag of all the 1:12th wheels and tires someone had ever purchased and had done little with (o.k. - like I should talk!), while some '57 Chevrolet full wheel covers were included inside the same. No Japanese stuff, although I doubt the Otaki range would strictly have offered up anything spot-on for what I needed. The same can be said for the current (at least when this message was posted) Shapeways 3D-printed range which trends towards Pro Street and super low profile stuff not strictly desired from this quarter. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings... For still further hacking and sanding the tire project comes closer to final as witnessed in these mock up photos. The raised sidewall red or goldline ridge (intended then on the earlier Corvette tool) was laboriously scrubbed out, while note that the intended width of the revised tire is coming into focus. The mockup for ride height and track could scarcely be less sophisticated (too low, and a bit wide on each score), but otherwise fairly decent. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K./Swede70

...while if it would be of any interest, what follows is a review of a paint mask worked up to accurately apply 1:1 restoration spray paint to the stamp steel wheels even as the as-delivered kit pieces have the trim caps and rings cast in place. A COX 'Big Bertha' model rocket nose cone was cut apart to come up with the shapes needed, while the rest is mostly made up of thin painter's plastic sheet, tape, and some plastic for a dust-free masking frame. It's reliable as can be witnessed further up this thread, and not terrifically expensive to make. The 'Big Bertha' kit (less solid propellant engine) was had for a heady $7.99... Top of same with some small brass rods to hold the center trim cap mask firmly in place. ...as viewed from the bottom. The nose cone has a rounded base that was trimmed to come up with the extra and unexpected shape to accommodate the raised profile of the wheel trim cap. While no glue is used to secure the mask in place even as a small frame was worked up to hold the plastic sheet evenly across the face of the set up. Low-tech then, and reliable for operation. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70

Greetings, Planned long ago but needless to say delayed for execution, these would be some tire modification images consistent with coming up with a stock appearance. The wafer-thin Corvette tires seemed salvageable in terms of tread detail, but less beguiling given how thin the section is. Also, the raised presumed redline or goldline sidewall detail needed to go, while anything that I might do to improve the fit or tweak in terms of the rims used was something started when this project was current. A brief run through then... Just indicative of what's sought, with reference to the sidewall profile and tread width... ...seen above is the initial tire mold needed to capture most of the tread as well as the best sidewall detail. ...the tread 'crown' on the 1:12th kit tire is pushed back a bit, a factor that will help to disguise the fact that I've combined two castings to effectively widen my scale vehicular footwear. Tamiya black panel line wash was used on the trim cap faces, while very delicate Tamiya cotton swabs were used to clean excess paint hand applied to the fluting on the sides. ...both the stock wheel 'face' as well as wheel back has been carefully countersunk and centered, this usually a problem with regards to ensuring the hollow vinyl tires look appropriate when otherwise employed. ...while waiting quietly in the wings, these would be my most current multi-piece wheels with separately rendered trim caps and rings. Note the small gap existing between the trim ring bases and the center stamping, while the trim caps now ride a bit 'proud' too. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K./Swede70