TomZ

I believe you gave an excellent description of why the steel cents aren't worth much, they're not rare. Almost everyone I know hoards bicentennial quarters because you never see them. The mint made something like 1.7 BILLION of them, and you never see them because they all reside in jars or pillowcases in closets, and are not rare at all.

I agree with swede70, Plastruct is great stuff. While half-round is very likely a much better choice, round stock is very easy to curl by just running it against the back side of a hobby knife or even your thumb nail. Being new to the hobby, you may not be skilled at using glue on tiny parts without making a mess of the parts. I've been building for years and lord knows I still struggle with this. My method would be to shape the trim part first, then attach it with narrow pieces of tape at the ends or in the middle, whichever seems to give a better fit. Then apply a TINY drop of Tamiya ultra-thin (green bottle) cement to the join as far from the tape as you can manage. That stuff will wick around a joint (and under the tape) like you wouldn't believe. After it dries remove the tape and add another tiny drop of glue as far from the first joint as you can manage, because you don't want to dissolve the first joint. The glue should be tacky enough after just a couple of minutes to keep the part in place, and it will soften the strip also. If you taped the ends, I'd leave one end taped until the other end was solidly glued in place. Possibly others have suggestions, and I am looking forward to seeing them! This is IMO not a trivial task you are looking at, at least not for me. Please let us know how it goes!

To expand on Bobdude's answer,we currently have four mints, located in the cities he listed. In the distant past we also had gold or silver mints located in Charlotte NC, Dahlonega GA, New Orleans, and Carson City NV. Each had its distinctive mint letter.

Are you trying to cover with one coat? If the paint is thick enough to cover in one coat then you will see very pronounced brush marks in the finish. Thin paint levels much better. Lots of brush users thin the paint even more to get a smoother finish, and don't blink at needing several coats. My experience with the Testors/Model Master enamels is that it will need two brush coats. I usually thin the paint slightly and sometimes need a third coat. I generally use Tamiya acrylics and it's not unusual to need a second brush coat with them as well. I've also noticed that new enamel paint will always be a little thin no matter how much you stir or shake it, but on the plus side it lays down beautifully. I personally don't stir enamels, I put two or three BBs in the bottle and shake it for a couple of minutes. I just prefer to shake rather than stir. But you have to stir acrylics as shaking will put tiny air bubbles in the paint. I should maybe mention just for your information that you should never put thinner in the paint bottle. For some reason that will ruin the paint after it sits for a while.

Needs more horsepower.

All that weight is behind the rear wheels. This ain't no Porsche.

Found it, but OMG is it obscure to Google. Wikipedia and a great deal of perseverance won the day.

Here's a quote about this thing that I loved, comparing it to another 3-wheeler: Are you one of the many people who would love to own a Reliant Robin, but feel that it has too many brakes, it looks too conventional, the engine’s both in the wrong place and has, like, twice as many strokes as it should, and you’d never want to own a car with a symmetrical arrangement of doors? If that’s you then I’m delighted to say I’ve found the car for you: a SAIL Badal.

I'm building a model that has some vinyl parts that have quite a bit of flash and some molding mis-match. I can't seem to find a way to clean up these vinyl parts that doesn't leave them worse-looking than they were before I messed with them. My efforts at simply trimming with a sharp blade went poorly also as I can't seem to control the depth of the cut. Is there a way to fix up problems with vinyl parts? thanks!

When I prime a car with Tamiya white primer I also prime the interior. Then I mask off the headliner when I paint the car. It looks great to me. Then again, my standard is "less than perfect."

I was going nuts looking through countries with right-hand-drive cars. Never occurred to me that the photo might be backwards. I stumbled onto a pic while searching for "sharp belt line" or something like that.

I am very much looking forward to following this build!!

Everything I've ever bought from there takes a month to get here. I suspect that a group of sellers collectively load a huge shipping container and send it over on a ship. I haven't bought anything as obscure as Tamiya enamels. but I've bought loads of small items like droppers and makeup brushes.

You can get them individually on eBay and Amazon, most likely other places also. Then again, maybe a set isn't that much by the time you pay shipping for one or two taps.

This is mostly a screw together job and they do provide you with a tiny Phillips Head screwdriver. I'm not crazy about it as while it useful for getting the screws started, you don't have enough 'leverage' to get the screws totally in place as the holes in the front fascia are not tapped. You're essentially threading the holes while you're turning the screws and I'll tell you it will require some elbow grease to make sure they're mostly seated. I have a several sizes of screwdrivers in my arsenal for just this purpose which will make it easier to get this together. I suggest that you go on eBay or some such place and get yourself a tap for the screw holes. I do that with my Tamiya motorcycles and it makes a world of difference! No worries about breaking something or slipping off the head.

I had decided it was probably a BSA Ten bodied by Tickford, so I'll give myself half credit. For the life of me I could not find any automotive association with 6 July 2013.

Can anyone tell me why the car pictured at this site has such a tremendously high hood line? It looks cool, but it's got to be hard to drive when the hood blocks the driver's sight line!

"The Little Drummer Girl" that was on AMC last week had a 1960 Chevy in a 1957 flashback.

If memory serves, Hondas had bare aluminum cylinders and crankcases and dull silver-painted side covers?

Are you referring to flex that has an accordion pleat, or the kind that winds together in a helical fashion and has a mostly flat surface? For the latter, you might be able to wrap a rod with .010 square strip, perhaps?

Saw one of these on a car show, knowing the make helped a lot!

It's simply amazing what a rat's nest of unconnected but similar-content entries can be found on Wikipedia. Persistence wins!

DON'T DO A GOOGLE IMAGE SEARCH! I did one and got virtually this same picture. Guess I'll have to sit this week out. Hate that, because I was already pretty sure of the country. Nuts. I always begin with the search and never get anything close, but I've enjoyed seeing what wild mismatches Google dredges up.

Doesn't the D3 have suicide doors as well?

Lucille Ball was simply stunning in her early serious movies before she was a star. Jaw-dropping gorgeous.