talon63

architect Carl A. Petersen came up with the concept in 1926 for the Ohio-based Pure Oil Company. Hers's another one that still stands.

Foreign sports cars, Chevy Buick dealership, Spitzer Motors of NE Ohio dealt in several brands, but I don't know if they were under one roof, maybe a native can comment. In the late 70's-early 80's I knew of a GM/Nissan dealership in Central VA, where everything was under one roof and the Toyota dealer also carried AMC/Jeep.

Last dry fit before final detailing. Didn't fix the front valance body lines, and still need to add the exterior chrome and side mirrors. Clean up a couple of paint errors, and clear coat. The rims are from the parts box and still need a wash to bring out the detail. Raised the back end slightly and replaced the rear tires with a pair of Racemaster slicks from the parts box. Got the side and rear glass tinted using a mix of Pledge Floor Care (Future) and Testors water-based black paint. Came out a nice smoky tint. Hope to have it under glass within the week. Thanks for looking!

I've found that fingernail polish has excellent coverage, and in an excellent range of colors. Can often pick them up pretty cheap as well.

Thanks for the reply. The top was chopped in the OP, but taking a little more out wouldn't hurt. Shortening the wheelbase may be the way to go as well, since I will likely have to seriously modify the Ford frame or scratch build one.

Small update . Most of the body is complete, working on final detailing and getting the bumpers on. Interior is progressing as is the chassis in the background, getting the engine wired and plumbed.

I picked up a Lindberg Chrysler Atlantic Concept kit, and was trying to decide on how much modifying I'd do since the kit is basically a curbside build, when I glanced at what was on the shelf. Something about the lines of the 37 Ford Coupe said, "Let's do something long and low". So here is the preliminary profile workup. I'm still working out the details of the front end. That 37 grill will need some modification for such a low profile vehicle and I want to use the 37's tear-drop headlamps. I see a lot of scratch building to make this happen.

LOL. It's not floating. It's sitting on a clear display base, I had the cover off to get the picture without glare from the lighting.

Not to start anything, but I've prepped cars for shipment overseas. Have you looked into what that entails for shipment into your country? IIRC, it took a couple of days of cleaning and inspection for the last vehicle I did. Other than that, a drive from Teton Idaho to Long Beach, California would be filled with some extraordinary sites, no matter what route you take. While the Salt Lake City-to-Las Vegas-to-Los Angeles is the more direct route, personally I'd detour across California to enjoy a bit of the Pacific Coast Highway. While not as steeped in motoring tradition as Route 66, it's a worthwhile drive at times, and greener than the desert. as a side note, If I were to make that trip from Houston to Long Beach, I'd be halfway to the destination before I left Texas.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm .032 conductor wire would be AWG 20 gauge

I picked up some at Sears Hardware, and can still find it on shelves at other retailers around Houston. I have found it makes a pretty good window tint. Add a few drops of water-based Testors Gloss Back, stir, and dip your subject. I usually hang it to dry, with a paper towel just touching one edge to wick off excess. Still experimenting with it, and may try some other water-based paint colors to see if it also works for tinting taillight lenses, side markers, turn signals, etc.

I also have a couple of these, and can attest that they can be quite fiddly to get the parts joined up.

Great start, awesome paint, I like the grill work. Can't wait to see more. I do agree that window screen looks just like that, window screen. And not to hijack your thread, but here's another way to maybe use it. This is a standard, metal screen repair patch, about 2" x 2", with 1/16" openings. Looks like window screen. But if you grab the opposing corners and pull, you can get a cool diamond pattern, with a tighter opening. Of course, for something like the 56, you need a bigger piece to work with, but I've had decent results using this in smaller openings, even on curves.

Loving the concept, looking forward to the execution. This will be a work of art.

Thanks. The first kit had a really nice and straight body. The driver's side A pillar on this one has a pronounced bow, and the passenger side has a slight one. Thinking a quick dip of the roof and pillars in some 140 degree water should allow me to ease them back into position rather then hacking them out and remaking them. The shaker hood was also warped, but I had the spare from the first kit to work with. Doing some modification to that one now. Will post pics of the progress.

Good looking build, so far. I like the color. If you are looking to strip, I also use Purple Power. It can strip chrome finishes in about 30 seconds, the lacquer undercoat takes a bit longer. Paint may take a while, but I've left styrene soaking for a week or more with no ill effect. Look forward to seeing the progress.

Before the end of 2015 I picked three of the Revell Streetburner 70 Challenger kits for less than 10 bucks each. The first was built to match the box art. This one I'm thinking of taking a bit farther, and the first part of that will be a grill cover. The grill work was done using .20 rod approximately 3" (75 mm) long, since I wanted light to pass through, and for the chrome and headlamps to still be visible behind it, the spacing is about .20 as well. Step 1. Building the jig. Starting with a base of tacky putty, I pressed the grill from the clip in far enough to provide the outline. Saved a lot of measuring, and gave me the points to set my corners. Placing each horizontal piece, I then alternated with standard size staples for uniform spacing. I then applied liquid glue to the verticals and placed them on. The mockup above does show the verticals under the horizontals. That was a first run through, and it made more sense to apply the verticals from the top rather than try and cement them underneath. 2. Placement Once the glue had set, I eased out of the jig with #10 blade, since I may want to use the jig again. Her's a shot of the grill laid over the front of the car. I used a marker to mark the ends of the horizontals for trimming to fit inside the setback over the headlamps and grill. That bit of rough texture visible in the picture is some of the tacky stuff that still needed to be removed. and here's a shot after trimming to fit. The top vertical was cut to fit the width of the hood opening. Cleaning and painting. I'm going black on this one. And here's another fitting after painting. Also thinking of carrying the same grill to the lower opening, but haven't decided on black or body color. Your comments are always welcome.

I've used a light tan or Testors Wood base, maybe a little weathering, as shown above for a Model T truck bed, and then I use Furniture markers. They contain wood stain, and they dry with a slight clear coat look. They come three shades to a pack, and this bed was done using the light and medium.

I don't know what the rules say, but here is a 40 Ford that competed in 2013 - http://peking2paris2013.com/car/ He had dual carbs and a large gas tank mounted in the trunk.

Home stretch on this build. Still need to add some under-bonnet detail, add the rear view mirrors and lens the headlamps, and a final polish. Then it's under glass and on to something else. Thanks for viewing, and the feedback. Happy Building!

No mocking here, I use them myself, especially for trying something the first time. Those are far cheaper than sheet styrene from the LHS, I recently got a friend interested in taking up the hobby again, and he wants to do an ambitious scratch build, and has never tried one before. The first thing I pointed out was using the signs to practice technique on. Worst case, the really bad tries can be melted down in cement and used as filler for other projects.

Is that the Scrambler? I have that on my list of projects as well. I was thinking of using the AMT Cougar Eliminator as the base, since the body is somewhat closer, and parking two of the minibikes from the Vandal kit in the bed.

Confirmed - B&N @ The Centre in Copperfield - Houston, TX carries it.

Patrol units would do just that. Patrol. They'd call the wagon for any pick-ups required.

https://www.facebook.com/MichiganStatePolice/posts/387896307916247 explains it