Warren D

Thanks! I got to run the real one last year, was good to crank the handle again, it's been many years.

Thanks, I did this as it was delivered, it looks a bit different today (not sure why) Thank you

Finished painting another HO Scale brass trolley. This is the Shelburne Falls & Colrain Street Railway #10. The prototype is the only survivor of this line, built in 1896 by Wason in Springfield Ma and is on display at the Shelburne Falls Trolley Museum in MA. This brass model from Fomras dates back at least 25 years and is one of very few made (I'm thinking no more than 50, possibly 20-25). Decals were tough, the files I had access to were pixelated but did the best I could.

Would need to be from scratch. Thanks Thanks Thanks, I wish my hands were as steady as they were 40 years ago...... Thanks

This is a brass trolley made by Fomras many years ago. It is painted as the prototype (which is at the Shoreline Trolley Museum in Branford, CT) and decalled using the decals provided. Probably the most amazing thing is that the decals were still viable after over 20 years.

Great looking build and good photos, too!

Sorry to hear that Charles, hope you heal quickly.

Looks good. I'm not sure if I still have my first issue build, if so, it's long overdue for a refresh.

More great info on the foil. Do you use the regular aluminum foil or the thicker stuff? Reynolds makes both......

I find that resin is ok to work with, it's softer than styrene so you have to use some care not to over-do the filing/sanding. The biggest thing is to make sure any mold release is removed. A good primer also helps, since I can't get Mr. Resin primer anymore, I just use standard auto primer (Rustoleum). Light coats work best. The hardest part of resin cab builds for me is fitting to the chassis. If it's a cab without interior that adds to the build time. I'm not wild about the resin that 3D printers use, it's extremely hard and brittle. The cast resin is better, at least in MHO and YMMV.

Nice job with the detail on the wood deck.

Very well executed!

Well done. We never had pups in Southern New England when I was growing up, streets are too tight.

I think Charles has illustrated a great point in this last post; a thorough knowledge of your subject allows the level of detail that results in accurate models of exceptional quality!

Nice looking rig!

Nice job combining the kits.

As far as I'm concerned, yes. However, that is based on what was used in New England in the 70's-2000's. There are still some out there but they are being replaced by newer technologies. I have some pics of the one I built for a municipal (and State DOT) plow: https://pbase.com/baywing/int2500

Good start. You can easily make a Tenco style sander from sheet styrene.

Good looking mixer, the weathering is very well done.

Looks good

Looks good. AITM is coming back, supposedly first quarter 2025 with some limited offerings. He's supposedly going to gradually build out the entire line but no idea how long that will take.

Thanks again, I appreciate your experience and your willingness to share it!

Thanks, are you using that to coat the mold before pouring the resin as well?

Thanks Charles. I was looking at Micro-mark's info and the only spray I see is for rubber mold to resin cast. The rubber to rubber stuff only comes in bottles. In your experience, it would seem the stuff in the spray can will also work rubber to rubber? Do you need to use the mold release on the mold before you pour the resin?

I don't see any holes to pour the resin. Am I correct that, at least for the parts you show, you fill the lower mold with resin and squish out the excess when you put the top on? Before Jeff asks, I'll ask, what molding resin do you use? (If I had to guess, I'd say something from Micro-mark)