Warren D

Very well done!

That's gonna be sweet!

Reminds me of the Camaro on a Chevy K-5 Blazer chassis that Gas Monkey re-did!

Here's one for you, rather rare, only a few hundred built. It appeared at a few truck shows in the northeast last year.

I build as much as I can in sub-assemblies based on color. I'd rather do my bodywork on unpainted parts as most of the hobby paint I use has very fine pigments that show flaws easily. I do use a brush as needed but prefer an airbrush.

Wow, that looks great!

Thanks for all the tips. The Bleche White took care of it overnight.

Back in the day, I don't recall much for construction trucks outside of Macks, Internationals and Autocars, at least not in this area. Petes and KW's were around but they were the over-the-road trucks. The rear-discharge mixers all but disappeared when the CCC purpose-built units started being built.

Excellent job on the weathering, looks very realistic!

Excellent build, great detail and weathering!

You might find this article helpful: http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/10/stuff_eng_tech_ca_glue.htm Upon a little research, it seems that this glue is solvent based and not the CA type. If so, it works by the solvent melting the plastic and as the solvent flashes off, the now welded pieces harden. There is no way i know of to speed this up.

You might find this article helpful: http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/10/stuff_eng_tech_ca_glue.htm Upon a little research, it seems that this glue is solvent based and not the CA type. If so, it works by the solvent melting the plastic and as the solvent flashes off, the now welded pieces harden. There is no way i know of to speed this up.

Thanks. I have the part soaking in Bleche White now and if that doesn't do it, it's on to the Super Clean.

Great level of detail, I'm looking forward to seeing where this is going.

Thanks for the kind words everyone!

Excellent build!

I have used CA, I prefer the gap filling kind as it's a little thicker and stays where you put it.

I've been using Windex to remove chrome plating and it's worked very well in the past. Last night I soaked a part from a recent Italeri kit and 18 hrs later, no joy. This is the first time I've tried an Italeri kit and wondering if I need a different chemical?

No, but it is interesting!

I've done a few of the thinner sheets but found a hair dryer to be enough. I have a heat gun that I bought for shrink tubing and the skin on RC airplanes and it's a bit too hot. Be especially careful, too much heat will melt the sheet and release some noxious plastic fumes in the process. I usually go by the principle that you can always add more heat if what you are doing isn't working, but adding too much heat right at the start can cost you a lot of material. The heat gun gets as hot or hotter than boiling water so oven mitts and hotplates should be handy.

Thanks for all the kind words. She's now finished and the pics are in the "Under Glass" section: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/120285-autocar-mixer/

The inspiration was a 1969 Autocar with a Blaw-Knox mixer that I saw for sale a several truck shows last fall. Also, I remember Foxon Readi-Mix as a local supplier growing up. Finally, I had a glue-bomb Autocar A64B that i really wanted to like but I messed it up pretty bad 30+ years ago. The hood, grill, front fenders, wheels and mixer came from Dave at AITM. I scratch built the mirror brackets, battery box, front bumper and a few other parts. I have to find/make the rear clip lights and brake lights on the back of the mixer, but I am calling this one done. It was a fun build and the old A-car looks much better than she did a few months ago!

Most if not all of the mixers in this area are kept very clean. Not sure it was always that way, but outside of a slushy, salty road day, the mixers are usually very clean.

I painted mine a steel color, figuring anything painted would wear right off. Doesn't matter if the rollers are rubber or metal, they would wear the paint off in a rev or two.

What did you do for the lights on the mixer body? I'm assuming they came in the kit? I have the AITM kit and it doesn't come with the lights. Trying to find a suitable substitute.