R. Thorne

Not much done lately. Couple interior pics . Semi gloss black with some chrome highlights. Spent a lot of time trying to clean up this goopy mess of silicone mold that would not harden after a week. Got most of the parts cleaned up, but threw the silicone pad away.

Still another pic of an early Lakewood bellhousing I believe on John Barkley’s D/S 57 Chevy (circa 1968) with the bolt on inspection cover.

Further research has disclosed that the color was a metallic color used on Chevy trucks. My brother got the vehicles painted while I was working for Uncle Sam, so I was not involved in the color choice. Again, deepest thanks to all who responded with possible colors. I have ordered (from MCW) Laurel green and yellow green metallic colors. We shall see which one looks the best. Thanks again. You guys are the best.

Whoops, almost forgot, some of the early Lakewoods were also 2 piece with an inspection cover

The Revell parts pack looks similar to a Lakewood Bellhousing/scattershield. I don’t have a picture but I am 99 percent sure I used one on this P/S 55 Nomad. Of course, in the early 60’s, the cast iron Ansen scattershield with the bolt on cover (had to weigh 50 lbs) was an option. The Chevelle pro street is somewhat similar to a Lakewood (no bolts, of course). Just another one of those head scratchers in the modeling industry as every tech man in the country checked all the cars coming in for a scattershield.

Weld Drag Lites. Very popular on older drag cars.

Assembled interior, painted gas tank flat aluminum with my cheapo 1/4” camel hair brush (looks glossy here, but still wet) . Best way I have found to clean up brush after painting with testors enamel is the testors thinner (better than lacquer thinner). Painted master cylinder with one of the micro brushes that I don’t know what I would do without.

Exhaust system installed and made smaller diameter rod for the steering wheel as the kit supplied one would not fit the dash. Also, could not find any rear arm rests that instructions called out.

Couple more engine pics with exhaust manifolds on and installed in chassis.

Thank you all for your kind comments. Since this was an out of the box build, I used the carb that came in the kit. Well, it certainly doesn’t resemble an afb, nor a Holley either, so the color is a moot point. As for the black brackets?? On the valley cover ends, this is a steel shim type of intake gasket with bolts on the ends. While the cover that I made is not great by any means, I couldn’t bring myself to build a model with an open crankcase.

Please use modeling specific types of paint (Tamiya has the best spray can nozzle ). Your dunk tank will thank you.

Little more progress on engine and rear suspension.

Did some more painting and made a valley pan out of .010” styrene. I like these thinny sanding sticks to clean off paint in tight areas.

As others have said, strong isopropyl alcohol is the only way to fly. Tamiya ts series are great, but errors do happen.

Oh, almost forgot, used a strip of 1/16” wide double sided scotch tape fastened to the inner fender to hold the hood in place during delivery to Mike.

Finally got the car tied down and ready to be wrapped for a late Christmas present. Thanks again, Roger.

Got some painting done yesterday. Today, assembled the tires and rims, and installed front suspension.

Just giving my personal experiences with cutters/nippers. These are the ones I have used over the years. While I never tried the Godhands, everything I have seen and heard suggests they are similar in design and results to Dspiae, but perhaps slightly thinner and more delicate to use. All of the more expensive nippers do not recommend cutting sprues (possibly why the jaws don’t open as wide). I keep my old xuron cutters for “heavy” cutting (making sprue glue, etc.,)but I don’t baby the 3.peaks and have cut sprues with them, if necessary. Put simply, they cut closer with less cleanup than any of the others. I believe the closeup pics of my old cutters speaks for itself. Merry Christmas to all.

To all who suggested a possible color, my deep appreciation. Any others? More research required with those suggestions. Merry Christmas to all on this forum who have unselfishly tried to help others.

Building a model of my old race car. Only clues to the color are it was sprayed around 1970 and was not a metallic, I think. Sort of a lime green or olive drab ?

A little work with my cordless drill, coarse sanding stick, and 1/2” drum sander with no sandpaper but wrapped with masking tape to fit the tire makes short work of the center flashing.

Oh, yes, criticism, comments, and suggestions are always welcome. That is one of the ways we learn and improve.

While waiting on some parts for another build, decided to build this out of the box “easy” one of a car my Army buddy had in 1970. Nothing fancy here, just fun and experimenting. Sanded down some sharp seam lines, sprayed body and chassis with Tamiya, no primer, “chromed” rear backing plates, tried to chrome some trim with a new marker, cut the tires out.

I like it. My slump busters rarely ever bust a slump, just send me down a new rabbit hole. M/SP cars were one of my favorite classes, especially blown like yours. Thanks for posting, now, time for another?

Yes.