R. Thorne

Change the title to “a lot more accurate “ . Nice, clean, job with a lot of attention to detail.

Then some stainless steel for the rotors and GreenStuffWorld chrome for the wheels daubed on with a micro brush. Next step is to make some molds and castings of headers, trans, tire, and air cleaner base before I can finish the model.

Slow going. Decided to get a bunch painted at once for future builds. Primed some wheels and rotors and the Quadrajet, then some gloss black. Some Titanium gold for the carb.

Thanks for the reply, Tim. Model kits, I guess, have always caused a certain amount of head scratching and wondering why certain things are done, but they are still an awful lot of fun.

Well, once I get going, it is hard for me to stop. The 47?-56 Olds is smaller overall in dimensions and considerably weaker than the 57-64 Olds-Pontiac. Luckily, I had some kits and built models to look at and it appears that Revell missed the boat on the 1963 Stone Woods & Cook and the Revell Skippers Critter kits as they have the HO33 Eaton rear in them. I have included some of my models and kits pictures to elucidate this. Close inspection of the rears (specifically the bolts, singular and plural) will help. I have been accused of being too damned particular as they are “only models”. Perhaps so, but, if I am going to do something, I am going to do it to the best of my knowledge. I also find this interesting .

Appears to be an HO33 Eaton. A little more fuel for the fodder, courtesy of The Jalopy Journal.

By the way, I used this adapter for a cut off wheel out of a Harbor Freight cheapo grinder set, drilled a hole in the air cleaner the size of the screw, and mounted it in my cordless drill. This allowed me to sand it down to the shape of the air cleaner base.

On further investigation, the Revell Anglia kit comes with an HO style Eaton rear end (not Olds Pontiac), which, oddly enough, has a bolt on type inspection rear cover along with the removable front center section. So, 2 sets of bolts on 1 rear end?!!

Your input is much appreciated. I have the Zona 35-241 thin slot on order. We shall see how that works out. Spent some time fabricating a performance air cleaner base that a lot of guys use and is worth as a tenth of a second on some cars. Used the stock air cleaner from the Moebius Chevy 2 kit and some .010” styrene. I plan on making a mold and casting a few for future builds. Still have some finish work, but almost there. Also, cut off the Chief Joseph quadrajet (great carbs, as almost everyone knows) with that great cutter I got from UMM-USA.

Uhh, that rear end appears to have bolts on the rear cover, unlike the Old-Pontiac rears (pic included). Thank you for all you do for the hobby.

Guess you have seen the Brian Lohnes YouTube video that covers this car and the quad Allison vehicle. I wish you the best of luck.

Lots of work and attention to detail. You might consider moving the driveshaft loop up front behind the trans.

I sometimes use Aleene’s tacky glue, but most of the time use just a very small amount of either Tamiya’s extra thin cement or CA glue. I guess I don’t have the patience to wait on PVA to dry as I want to build right then.

I broke down and ordered issue #222 from Spotlighthobbies . I am going to check it out, then subscribe, if I like it. I miss Scaleauto mag. At least you sold one issue, Tim.

Do they fit a regular hobby knife or only Tamiya’s pricey one?

Harry’s car has been on my list of builds and parts are acquired, but I keep getting interrupted by Stock Eliminator cars. This is the man himself and his beautiful car. Not to diminish your work, Tim. You know how I feel about your contributions to modeling. If this is inappropriate, please advise and I will, of course, remove this post.

Well, after bragging about my new tools for cutting straighter lines, the next 2 wheels turned out worse and varied about .030” from one side to the other and required tedious hand sanding to straighten them. If anybody has any suggestions, let’s hear them. Good old coarse sanding stick to the rescue.

No magic here. Just Tamiya ts spray paint. Gold, then clear red (watch out for runs). Anyway, after a break of a few days, I am back at it making the 14” (1/25 scale .560”) resin wheels into 10” Stock Eliminator wheels (1/25 scale .400”). I have done this on other wheels (narrowed them) in a miter box with double back tack to hold them in place and did so again on these, but did not like the results. The razor saw(s) always seem to cut crooked and require a fair amount of truing up. Looked for something better and my new specialty jewelry pliars and saw worked much better. Hopefully, you can see the difference between them.

Well, couldn’t keep from posting this picture of a focused driver and Bad car.

Outstanding!

Part of the problem in assessing what these cars looked like (front end lift wise) is that most popular pictures of these cars were taken from leaving the line, not from a stationary position. This is a picture I took in the mid 60’s at a match race in Chandler, In. This was taken behind the starting line. Big John and Stone Woods & Cook were , of course, 2 of the most popular cars at that time. It seems like only yesterday that I was introduced up close and personal (about 15 ft. Away) to 2 blown hemis.

You absolutely cannot go wrong with advice from Ace. Keep in mind, though, that a lot of the early gassers were built using the stock front end. A couple of mine using the 41 Plymouth and 37 Chevy kits . One imaginary and one a replica of a real car (37 Chevy).

Get yourself one of these and place it near where you paint as it is difficult to gauge relative humidity accurately by guessing. Also, I don’t hook up my exhaust fan to the window until I am ready to paint.

Do you paint outside?

If the center hub is not bigger than .350”, this works good in conjunction with a pin or other device or tiny drill for the centering hole.