R. Thorne

I like the fidget for small amounts of ca glue and paint. The next day, after it has dried, I just pop it out. Since ca doesn’t stick to silicone, it works decent for me.

Closer and closer, but always experimenting. Completed bmf and lettering. Not thrilled with the results, but I don’t think I will forget to do the bmf before the windows are installed again. Anyway, some small stuff, drilled the door handles and body for some .025” styrene rod installation. Some Tamiya black wash on the vent holes, Then made some windshield wiper “stubs” from .025” rod. Very few people use wipers on stockers, but the mechanisms are still required. Some “chrome” for the side markers and door and trunk locks. I then noticed some marks on one corner of the roof. They were not there after painting, but materialized during the last week or so. Tried some Tamiya polish to remove them with no improvement. Then the old reliable Novus 2 came through for me and removed the mysterious marks on the top and did the rest of the car with it, too.

Daniel, what I like about those blades is you can “rock” or pivot them around corners without fear of slipping out of the groove or channel. Also, you can push or pull (like slicing tomatoes) as you proceed down the panel.

Thanks, Mark. I am always experimenting, sometimes with less than optimum results. Finished up the numbers and bare metal foil today. Two of my most helpful tools when it comes to bare metal foil: my fingernail and a #15 scalpel blade. It cuts better than the pointed end of a #11 type blade.

Got the blue numbers and letters yesterday. Some progress last night with them. I only have the rear window to do. Ran out of #3, so made some out of #8. Not exactly thrilled with the look, but I am moving on with this build. Still have some foil work to finish, hopefully today.

Front and rear are done. Finishing up the side windows which are slow going.

Did this late last night. Used a #15 scalpel blade and a metal ruler to cut as straight a line as possible with the bare metal foil. Will have to cut a more narrow piece for the rest of the windshields. Looks much better. Finally getting around to the bench tonight.

A day of experimentation and efforts that did not pan out. The numbers and class designation first. Tried some blue marker on the white decals to approximate blue numbers. Didn’t like it. Then had some stick on numbers I “blued”. Not impressed. Finally, after some research, ordered some blue 1/4” and 1/8” numbers and letters decal sheets. The next less than successful outing was the chrome trim on front and rear windshields. I had completely forgot about the chrome trim when I installed the glass. I always do that first, but brain fade got me this time. Tried some chrome decal strips I had used before on the straight side trim. Looked okay, but had wrinkles. Then some 1mm (.040”) wide strips of chrome tape. Better, but the next step is 1 mm wide strips of bare metal foil. Will try that tomorrow.

Couple of chassis shots with wheels glued on. Also, the making of a rear license plate. Some scrap thin styrene sheet, some double back tape to hold it for individual decal application (thanks to Slixx for 1/8” letter sheet), and some semi steady hands and water. Oh, and a blue jel type pen I am going to experiment with to make blue class numbers tomorrow.

Got the driver and passengers side windows in with Mod Podge, ca glue on the front rims to chassis with testors bottles for alignment. Painted a helmet and glued it on. Gonna let stuff sit over nite , then trial fit chassis and more detail work tomorrow.

Thanks, guys. Well, I am not going to meet my goal of finishing today. Glued some windows in, superglued the front inner wheel halves on, painted the tailights bezels with modelmasters stop light red, some clear parts on the bumpers. Don’t know what I would do without my excellent sprue cutters on the clear parts that leave essentially no nubs protruding. Also, the rubber coated tweezers are great.

Glued rear tires on with some tacky glue for a trial basis. Painted the lower edge of grill. Also, used masking tape to pattern the driver and passengers side windows. Then cut out some .005” clear styrene.

Again, thanks, Roger. Some more progress. My goal is to finish this by Sunday night. We’ll see. Installed driveshaft, headers, dipped windows in floor polish, black washed grilles (needs another coat tomorrow). Trans pan got scuffed up somehow. Will fix tomorrow. Done for tonight.

Great model with careful detailing. My brother bought a new 1964 galaxie with the fastback styling. His was also Wimbledon white but with a black interior and a 390 with an automatic trans. I got to drive it on my senior prom night in 1964. Boy, I was in heaven. Still one of the most beautiful cars ever made.

Decided not to wire this engine for a number of reasons. Instead, painted the cap and coil with some testors enamel after loosening the lid with a few taps from my screwdriver handle (I posted this in the tips column). Driveshaft was too short (because I swapped to an automatic trans). Found one from a 1966 Chevelle wagon partial kit that I had ordered for other parts.

“Much ado about nothing”

Usually open ‘em with my large pliars after running hot water on the lids, but had one that wouldn’t give up the ghost today. YouTube to the rescue. Tapped on the top of the lid with the plastic handle 3 or 4 times, then turned it 180 degrees and tapped it again. Viola! High tech stuff.

Calling the interior done.

Thanks, Daniel. Drilled some holes in a parts box steering wheel that more closely matched Mike’s, painted with stynlrez primer and semi gloss black, painted shifter. Also, modified stick shift brake pedal to look like an automatic by using the clutch pedal. Closer and closer to the finish line on this build.

Some work on the front tires, what I am trying to emulate on the front end, MSD glued to the cage, installed seats and cage. Just finished gluing on the side panels, tach, dash, and gauges. Pic tomorrow.

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the replies.

Yes, I always do. Just one of my pre paint procedures.

Ok, my curiousity has gotten the better of me. There is a considerable difference in price between these 2 kits. One is Revell of Germany and the other is Revell Monogram. Other than one advertised as a W30 and the other a 442, what’s the difference and is the quality the same? Or is there a better kit of the 1971 Cutlass hardtop than these 2?

Since the Modelmaster 8872 is no longer available, you might try the Testors 3507 if you are looking for a thicker cement.

Hope to see him back soon. His daily YouTube junkyard “classroom “ shows are sorely missed.