PierreR89

Anyone here knows if anyone makes the 6.2 or 6.5TD v8 as a model? I am thinking of bying the revell gmc big game truck and make it in to a chevy with a 6.2 engine as it is what my real one has. Exept mine is not lifted and only 2wd.. Is there someone who makes those engines as models or i have to modify the engine that comes with the kit?

This heat that we have here.... Only 32c (89f)in the shade and around 47c (116f) in the sun today.. Thats not normal at all for sweden... Now at nighttime the temps have only dropped to 27c (80f)... i have every window and door open to try and cool down the house but thats not working that good... I only have fans to try to keep the air moving but would much rather have an AC instead. They are ouf of stock in every store right now so untill next year i will have bought one.. Was also told that my uncle has ALS and will probably not make it this whole year.. Have also got the time for when i am going in to have an operation in my shoulder. Only good thing about that is that i will finaly be able to move that arm as it is supposed to do, have not been able to move it that good since about 2013.. So after my 5 weeks vacation is done i can only work for 1 week untill i have to go in and after that i am probably not allowed to work for 5-6weeks.. I dont now what i am supposed to do during those weeks as i am restless already...

Yes it is very different to the Legos i played with when i was a kid. The fun thing about most of the Lego Technic kits that are out there is that they are desigend to be able to build 2 different things. This Mack + trailer can also be built as a Mack garbagetruck.

Thanks.

Here is how the decalsheet looks for the ERTL kit ot this truck

Have been building on this for a couple of days and i did the final things on it today It was fun to build but it did fight me on some parts... I hope that round2 have fixed those problems with their upcoming rerelease. The biggest problem was that the fenders did not line up with the cab if you are using the cabmounts molded on to the framerails. The manual say to mount the cab before the fenders but you have to mount those + the radiator first and then adjust the cab after them removing the molded slots in the interiorbucket for the cab mounts helps alot. Another problem was the passengerside mirrorarm as it is exactly the same as the driverside but this side needs to have the bottom leg bent in an angle to have the mirror sit straight, i did not care and now it is all over the place... And for those who might build one when you reach step 17 in the instruction mount the exhaustpipe that goes between the engine and stack before you mount the springbrace on the front springs. I did not... but after many twists and turns it finally came in to its correct place Also as a fun thing i did notice that Mack and Scania cooperated with eachother at one time because alot of the parts on the engine and placement of others is almost exactly the same as Scania have on their v8,s from this era

When you need just a little superglue like a small drop you will mess up and accidently squirt out way to much so you cant touch any part without getting stuck for atleast an hour.. When succesfully applied superglue to any part and you are thinking for your self lets be careful now your fingers will find a small drop of glue on something that is very visible when mounted and the part is stuck to your fingers.. So any tips on how to remove dried superglue with a fingerprint from the clear plastic that is used as a windshield for a truck...

I used to work in a MAN garage but i am not really sure what the first two numbers stand for, the last is always horsepower But somewhere in my mind i belive it stands for the maximum weight they are allowed. In this case that truck is allowed to weigh 26 tonnes with the trailer attached and loaded. So looking by a pick of the kit and seing that it is a 6x4 drivetrain then it would be correct with those numbers as their trucks that is only 4x2 is allowed a gross weight of 18 tonnes. Also from some other pics i see straight away that the gearbox is a ZF. Cant help you with the exact engine name as i dont have access to those repairmanuals anymore.

Not sure if this is the right place for this one. This is Lego,s version of the Mack anthem + a selfloading container trailer. The truck has steerable front wheels, a working "engine" (the pistons move when movig the truck) a fith wheel that can lock and open to secure the trailer, opening doors and hood. The trailer has working landinggear, working supportlegs and working cranes for loading and unloading the container (that has opening doors) The supportlegs on the trailer needs to be down to load and unload the container or it will fall over just like a real one would do.

Got some more trucks from ebay.... Need to start building some of them soon i have 28 trucks waiting to get built someday.. 32 including these 4.. I already have a 1/16 peterbilt but it is in bad shape with lots of missing parts and can probably just be used as a partstruck or have them side by side to show off how much more skill i have now compared to when i was 12 years old and built it

Was going to replace the brakes on my suburban today, brakepads and rotors.... Only got the pads replaced because some idiots who worked on it before thought it would be a good idea to weld the rotor to the part of the hub where the wheel mounts to.. Since mine is a diesel and 4x4 it has 8 lugs and the rotor sits behind that part and is held in place by the wheelstuds... The 4 bolts holding the hub in the knuckle was rounded so i have to weld a nut on each to remove them.. But wait there is more... On the right side they had crossthreaded the caliperbolts so bad that they somehow managed to bend them. I had to fix that as good as i could just to get the new bolts in but i have to replace the knucke to get one that has good threads in it. I could drill it out and use helicoil but i dont trust them at all since they never work for me for more then a few months before they break. Also coppergrease on everything and for caliperbolts that needs to be able to slide that is a bad idea... Had to clean all that off everything to and then replace the bushings in the calipers to get them to slide as they should again.. And this time use silicone grease as you are supposed to do if you want it to work for more than 2 weeks... The best part of all this is that the garage who replaced the brakes on it before me wrote it in the servicemanual for it so i atleast know where to never leave any vehicle... Should be interesting to see what else they have messed up on it next time i have to fix something.... The lesson here is that if you want it done right you have to do it yourself...

I am 28. But some days it feels like i am much older thanks to some injuries i have... Some can be fixed, others can not...

Found 2 kits on ebay that i have been looking for. This: And this:

Have you also seen The bridge 2 ? If you have, did you notice that in some episodes of that there was an old Chevy truck being used? If you did that was mine, the productioncompany that filmed the bridge 2 borrowed it from me when they were filming it.

This looks exactly like my real Grand cherokee looked like when i bought it. It even have the same interior color. Then it kind of derailed a little when i was going to replace some parts and now it look like this...

Okej, thanks. Then i need to find one of those if i want to build a model of it.

Got some new truckkits from ebay. All exept one from AMT 1: White RoadBoss 2: Diamond Reo 3: White Freightliner 4: International Transtar 4300 Eagle 5: Mack Cruiseliner 6: White Western Star 7: Peterbilt 352 pacemaker 8: Mack DM600 9: Kenworth K-100 aerodyne (revell)

Found this pic of a wrecker on my computer that i had saved for some reason. Anyone here here what truck it is built on?

Painted the instrumentpanel so one thing is done on this monster.. Skipped the decals for the gauges because they were slightly to large to fit where they should go Followed the instructions for a bit but mosty went for the look the one i have seen irl have. The instructions wanted everything except instrumentpanel to be darkgreen and the seats black. The one i have seen looks like this on the inside

Found some motivation to work on this again. Instrumentpanel done, just need paint and decals. The instrumentpanel has so many parts that it took 2 hours to put it together.. Cab and enginecover are just on there because i wanted to see how it would look

Agree. They are there for a reason so if they are in the vehicle you are driving why not use them as they can give you hints that something is about to happen.

I check that every few seconds every time i drive it anyways so that is not a problem. I know where it normally is when everything is working so as soon i see something odd with it i am pulling over and switching it off. The only gauges i check more then the speedo and revcounter is watertemp, oilpressure and voltgauge. I do also keep an eye on how the exhaust looks like since i can see it in the passengerside mirror, if it suddenly changes from invisible when the engine is warm to white/blue/black smoke then something has gone bad, very bad..

That the waterpump in my 6.5td suburban decided to quit and start to leak... Because i have no garage to work in i have to replace it outside.. As an extra bonus i have to use it on friday and it is one of those weeks now when it barely gets above 5 degrees farenheit to... Hopefully it will survive if i have alot of extra coolant with me so i can fill it up when the low coolant warning comes on... Maybe it will get a little warmer during the weekend when i have time to replace it...

What engine do you have in yours? This makes me want to start work on my -82 C20 with 6.2 Mechanicaly there are no problems exept glowplugs (have those) and leaking fueltanks, the worst part is all the rust on it. The previous owner did not take care of it at all and only "repaired" rust by welding new metal ontop of the rusted part... As a result of that the rockerpanel just fell of when i was washing it one day... I just threw the panel in the cab and parked it in a corner of the yard because i felt like i dont want to deal with this now, and it has been sitting there for a few years now.

Do it have a solid rear axle as jeeps and trucks do have or does it have independent suspension? If it is a solid axle check the trackbar that goes from the frame down to the axle. If the bushings in the trackbar is bad the axle can move frome side to side by itself and it will vibrate like crazy. You can use a crowbar or large screwdriver to check for any play if yu can get it behind the trackbar and its mount on the body and axle. Also check the controlarms if there is any play in them, they can also cause a vibration if they bushings are worn out. You can check them the same way you check the trackbar If they have never been touched since 02 then they probably will be worn out by now.