89AKurt

Thank you for cheering me on during the WIP! Now I can say it's official.

Modified the kit mirror, could get close to the classic profile without affecting the "bezel" of the part. Drilled for a wire, had to put wire insulation at the dash end to fill the hole where the vertical thin wire is. Glued the splitter on. OFFICIALLY COMPLETE!

Call this one done! I have one part to make, but nobody will notice.

The windshield was a pain. Drilled the visor holes bigger. Ended up breaking the right end of the header again. Made aluminum plate "glass" retainers. So the windshield is in. Emblems, I drilled a hole through where 2 of them go. The 190 and the SL were separate on the parts fret, I added aluminum tape bar. I think the only part that is 1961 is the trunk handle, made from the license plate part I didn't use. Haven't done the interior mirror. Splitter still not glued on. Otherwise I would say it's done. I sometimes weather the underside.....

Thank you David! I shocked myself, seeing how the Ferrari red: looks with the VW blue: Glued the LED headlights on with Testors canopy glue. Glued the fusee chain onto the firewall, so hood is on permanently. Prop rod catch glued on, but discovered it's the wrong way, and have fixed it. Brake master cylinder has 2 solder brake lines. Had to wet-sand the trunk and hood to polish the paint because the masking tape messed them up, otherwise not risking that on the rest of the body. Trunk hinge glued in. Started brush painting more flat black inside the body. Trunk prop rod catch is on. Just need to touch up flat black at the hinges. Taillights: AAA insurance sticker for the red, some kid sticker that has orange, it's on a laser background. Detail-Master photo-etch quick turn fasteners added to the headrest part. The next thing I'm fighting OCD on, is the interior mirror (wood stick pointing to it). It looks nothing like a M-B mirror. Replicas & Miniatures of MD photo-etch rings, Testors canopy glue. Back-up lights are the biggest photo-etch hex screw heads, white paint in the center, supposed to be LED. The license plate allegedly has something to the effect of an active aerodynamic system, when going at a high speed it swings back and up into this position. When it's straight down it acts like an airbrake, and is the legal position. When swung forward and up for parking at shows, it can also be in that position on the track, and swing down to catch air to help for slowing down. At least that's what I heard. Think I have done enough under the hood. Trunk looks done enough. The windshield is next. The top is sprung down, will be a trick to "snap" the trim part in. I've like painted myself into a corner, the mirror really needs to be made to the recognizable shape. Final flourish will be the photo-etch emblems! Should I add a radar detector?

Chassis is glued to the body by the door panel posts, put big globs of superglue where most of the pins had broken off the body, then held the whole thing for a couple of minutes. Windshield is the next thing to obsess about.

Long tunnel. Keep thinking of more details. ? Think it will get stuffed together on Sunday. This would be a lousy long distance, across the country as non-stop as possible ride. I haven't worked on the roof, or looked at the possibility. It's more suited to an autocross or track weekend, perhaps a multiple day 1000 mile rally. So do the roof, perhaps a little chop? Also thinking about adding duzt fasteners to the headrest piece.

Ultra cluttered workbench, final detail assembly using numerous sources of materials.

? Thank you very much! ? Shiny side up, keep that side up is a rally term. ? Cut a short piece of aluminum tape, then polished it. That was used for the famous fender wing trim, cut with a new #11 blade, about 1 MM wide. Not thrilled about the ends, but arm's length it's okay. Old school radio antenna, which was operating fine until I installed in the body. Added a red wire insulation tip, painted the end red with a generous amount of thick paint. The polished aluminum plate is to cover up a booger. Added p-e screw heads, plus 2 on the other side of the Kevlar box. Doesn't really show up in this picture, the aluminum tape was used for the fender wing trim, and the top of the doors too. Bare-Metal foil. polished too, on the door sill trim. Splitter bolts painted, 2 have aluminum detail. Back of aftermarket LED lights are painted Tamiya titanium gold, just because. Debating about how to gloss Kevlar on the fenders, could spray another clear which would get into the edge of the aluminum. About the only time I like to brush paint, the flat black inside the body. I never get a 100% seal on masking the outside of the body when blowing paint. I better ? and resume in the morning. ?? This was like OT. ?

Thanks everyone! ? Details that have evolved this build. There used to be "curb feelers", if I was driving this for real, would be concerned about hitting the splitter on an obstacle. Lined up the parts ready to go somewhere. Some photo-etch is getting the polishing treatment. I tape the parts onto Scotch® tape, then hold down with regular masking tape, then the top with painters tape which is not a favorite of mine, but worked in this case. Underhood detail such as prop rod receiver is the newspaper aluminum polished, but really doesn't make a difference. Second type of decal, Scale Motorsport, their own solvent doesn't work like Solvaset. Sprayed the same clear on all the c-f parts. Not happy with the trunk lid, but oh well move on...... Third type of c-f is dated Kevlar fiber, used early in the development of this technology. Could hammer stainless steel (Alclad chrome or the new stuff). Trim that could match the B-M treatment, but just wanted to use this decal. Also did the firewall box after this picture. Anyone want a Setso kit? Takes about 40 times as much work, minimum. Got the black carpet from some model show. The adhesive is shot, so it's glued in with Testors canopy glue. Figured some sort of soundproofing is worth it. Prop rod is now held in with wire insulation, guessing on clearance, but the wire is easy to cut and/or bend. Added four railroad bolts, and hardware, the 4th bolt does not go deep, but as is, no glue, it stays in place. Curbfeeler is from the smallest wrapped guitar string, steel not brass, pulled the center solid wire then equally stretched the coiled wire except the tip. Aluminum plate bent enough to keep the folded end in place, then wonderful superglue. Painted silver after the picture. Detail Master tweeter speaker covers glued in place. Looks like the grill needs work, didn't notice before. Is it worth the trouble? The blue painted part is the MB emblem on the hood (not a star like the kit had). Just need to get the lids fixed, need to sand/polish. Then glue in place without using tape. Headlights aren't glued in either, different eh? ?

And then this.... Motor1: Subaru's Race-Ready Station Wagon Nearly Broke Records At Goodwood

Sheesh, new P25 is $700,000! Carfection: Prodrive P25: Take a Closer Look at This $700,000 Subaru

Now I'm "jonesing" to do another Impreza.

riding planes and

Carl talking about your interior got me to look, and I like what you're doing. Some resin bodies are intended to be curbside, so that's a drawback.

crazy with pink

You ever have those times, where you futz with fixing something, and it dominos into more errors to fix? Thought I was careful wet-sanding the first clear coat, and went through the color on the driver door, tried to fix with brush painting which made it worse. So I hit the door with color, and then did everything with another coat of clear. I managed to get a nice gloss on the headrests, so went thicker on the other parts and got better but not ideal results. Should be happy I didn't get cat hair or whatever in the paint. Shoulda coulda woulda done the carbon-fiber decal on the splitter before spraying the clear. I like the Hobby Design decals. Also did the bottom, since I made the anti-sway bar it will be part of the picture.

Ordered take out from a bbq restaurant, was convinced to upgrade to a dinner with side of ranch beans. Get home, no beans. Then I see there is a 10% take out fee, so let them know on website contact email that I feel double ripped off. Will see if I get any response. I mean seriously, pay more so I don't take up a table and require staff attention? Better stop now before I start $%^**&^%$%^&. Oh yea, got the last quart of oil that I prefer from NAPA, $8.49 (before tax)!! Guy said they went up $2 per quart! Don't get me going...... ?

rodeo riding bull

Moon Mixer looks interesting. Maybe it's because I know there is a concrete shortage now.

I know right? I have two other WIP that require building suspensions, with drive shafts. Thank you. Light at the end of the tunnel, got gloss clear sprayed.

Thank you for following so closely! Good thing I screwed up the spear paint, much happier with this. For starters, not using Bare-Metal foil again, it leaves glue residue. This time I used good ol' Scotch tape, cut in narrow strips, then regular ol' masking tape and sketch paper. I also changed the design, under the headlights I used an ellipse template to get matching curves, instead of a point. The headrests are also angled to the tweeter speaker. Not perfect, but good enough (I admire the low rider builders, doing numerous maskings of many colors, that takes skill and patience of a saint). Splash paints 1K gloss clear. I hope it cures smoother, I can never get a smooth gloss finish. I'm getting the hang of using these exotic paints, quick light numerous coats, haven't melted spots like before. I was hoping to get this done this month, but oh well.

Love it! I like the texture of the fiberglass. There is only one front plate worth putting on IMHO.

Way awesome dude! This motorsport takes big engines to the top level, and this model represents very well.

Thanks for the comments! Got the body repainted this morning, didn't touch it tonight. Got the engine detailed. No way am I going to do all that plumbing and wiring! I couldn't find any better reference for where the radiator hoses go into the engine. Ticked that I boogered up the top of engine. ? Something that annoyed me about the bottom (not the REVELL 1960 ?) was the door panels in the slots. The aluminum can lid (forgot if it was coffee) has what looks like rivets, so that's what I hid it with.