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Everything posted by absmiami
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Painted the fuel blocks with some Polly S blue anodized paint and then some flat black for the frame These paints dry quickly - so just a short time later I epoxied the nickel bracket - the location is tricky because of the stagger in the Cyl heads. But I think l got a good location. Now I can make the left and right hand brackets ...
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I managed to drill some .013 holes into the top of the gear train cover and placed two .013 pins and pinned the fuel block assembly in place. This allowed me to epoxy the bracket and make the adjustments needed to center the cross bar that holds the linkage levers - 2 in the center and one each side for the linkage to the injectors
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Starting with some .024 nickel rod I bent this to the shape of the bracket that straddles the fuel blocks in the center of the front gear train cover and soldered it to a strip of Nickel strip. Finished with some files and sanding sticks and careful with the balsa wood. It is flammable ...
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Shortly after my book order. Auto books informed me that the Ford performance reprint was not available - but they did agree to seek Ford’s permission to do another reprint - or perhaps something electronic. We’ll see anyway - here’s an update ...
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The A pillar. If you have 5 different hobby saws and 3 different scribers - one will work and the rest will not ... do you have a spare body to experiment with ???
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Just ordered mine. Was not aware of the reprint. Thanks again Some slow going. Removed some of the valve cover bolts and drilled .0125 holes for some .012 nickel rod- then cut and drilled .015 by .040 evergreen strip these will Serve as the bases for the plug looms - which are on their way from detail master. Also placed some .047 plastic plugs into the cylinder head to hold the base of the carbs and you’ll notice from the mock up shot the stagger of the cylinder heads. Not sure that the Gurney Eagle kit got this right. - will check
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Airtrax 1/24 Ferrari 330 GTC - The Beauty and the Beast
absmiami replied to Italianhorses's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Dare you drop an engine in it ?? -
Would love to see the doors swing open. But you must be xtra careful with those slender A pillars ... hi Tim ...
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You win ! I did some web snooping this afternoon. Some pages of the ‘65 Ford performance Pamphlet for this engine have crept onto the internet and it is pretty clear from the drawings that the smaller wire size will better. Mad; do you have that pamphlet ??
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Alrighty then... detail master sells .013 and .016 orange plug wire ... the perfect size would be .014. - oh well - I’m leaning towards using .013. Inviting your votes ... rules. Any forum member is eligible to vote - regardless of party affiliation - one vote per member - but you can change your mind as many times as you want - I’ve changed my mind three times already this morning ...
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Oh dear .. .... . ...... .
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I forgot about the rev’s display engine! Revs is about 110 miles west of me across “alligator alley”. Don’t ask ... of course it is closed now. But I plan to go back there when it reopens - maybe Junewhoknows ... couple more Q’s ... the plug wires - yours look perfect - I’m uncertain whether to use.013 or .016 for these. What did you use in 8th scale - I’ll try to do the math. I like your paint on the 1/8 The engine block looks like it is a mix of gun metal and something else silver - and are the valve covers flat black with a little something? Maybe some grey or gum metal ? the links and the fuel line fittings are driving me nuts. Gonna have to machine some elbow fittings and draw out the links. And no, Randy - the linkage will not be functional . I am not THAT functional ... and thanks again ... your humble obsessive whatever ...
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Yup
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The fuel distribution blocks straddle the bracket in the center of the valve train cover. Made from evergreen bar and drilled for the fuel lines and adjustment screws . Have to make part that suspends the linkage rod - this will be brass or nickel ... probably paint the fuel blocks a shade of anodized blue - as per the 8th scale prototype - I think that is correct ...
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another question for mad ... the diameter of the linkage cross bar - appears close to 1/2 inch and the diameter of the steel fuel line - appears slightly more than 1/2 inch nominal outside dia - 5/8 ??? just made the forward facing fuel distribution block ... thanks in advance
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Cooper barn find
absmiami replied to absmiami's topic in WIP: Other Racing: Road Racing, Land Speed Racers
How do you think it would handle? -
Cooper barn find
absmiami replied to absmiami's topic in WIP: Other Racing: Road Racing, Land Speed Racers
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Thanks terrifying ... sigh .... scalpel ... suture please ... Dog Fish Head ....
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Mad. On your 8th sc blog there are some great photos of the brackets that support the rod that articulates the fuel injection linkage. Could you post a photo of the fuel block sitting in the center of the assembly - and a photo or drawing of its attachment to the middle bracket and or the top of the valve train cover gracias in advance ... and if anyone reading this hasn’t yet seen the 1/8 build on the big boys blog - stop what you’re doing and go to the big boys section and you’ll see the posts there ...I’m referring to the posts on the Ford soho indy engine ...
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I knew I shouldn’t have said that ... so I managed to make one before running to the cooler ... evergreen I beam filed and sanded and sawed. With a .012 drilled bolt hole and a piece of .012 brass rod and a .020 r b motion nut. Momma Mia l forgot how miserable these things were ... I’ll be able to knock out about one a day ...
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Scary nice
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I know that you’ve been pondering the design of those headers ....
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After an alcohol wipe, some toothpaste and an old toothbrush - both the headers and the engine block are ready to go. Once you cleanup the back of the engine the detail on the engine mounts is very good. Despite the fact that the engine is “printed” from this projection ...
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Thanks to mad for the commentz. Sunlight! Let’s see. I live in florida maybe see if I can find some of that ... ive tried to sand blast in the past. Tough to do here in the humidity. Never found a good way to set up the equipment. Gonna need a bigger work shop ... but thanks for: A. answering a modeling prayer ... and B. sending me down this rabbit hole ...