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Everything posted by absmiami
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Oh dear. You’re sending me down another rabbit hole. The stokes build was featured earlier this yr in Motorsport - I think- with an awesome overhead shot of the completed chassis. But these additional shots are great and they are by my favorite author. Mr Nye. Well my second favorite. Hunter Thompson is numero uno. I do plan to build a frame for the Alfa engine And I must decide if I’m going to build it into the Merit kit body or just display as a stand alone. I change my mind every time I think about it .... And now you’ve made me think about it again
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So actually the engine block and valve covers had a “machine turned” Finish. Which gave them a bright silvery appearance. You know what plans I have for the body. Don’t think I can do that for the engine I’ll damage too much of the bolt detail. So I’ll just wing it. And find some deep blue color for the cyl head ...
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Take a bow: Mad Mike ...
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Magnesium for the Delage engine block? Maybe just a shade darker? Or what ?
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I usually get mine fr Micro-Mark are they out? Toilet paper. Para-film. What’s next ??
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Fuel inj trumpets are painted with a nice anodized blue by Polly S . Using my old double action Paasche airbrush after managing to clog and then ruin the paint cup in my go-to single action airbrush. I’ve spent so much time messing around with these engines that I almost forgot how to paint things ...
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Painting. First Alcad’s magnesium for the block. Then floquil steam power black brushed on the valve covers and the gear assembly cover and Tamiya fl white for the exhaust pipes . The silver hi-lites on the valve covers and most of the bolts were picked out with a marker .
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Doors ... ??? ... ... .. .
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Q1: what airbrush do you use? I’m fussing with my pasche - cleaning And using my dual action for the first time in a few years ... well done the createx is pre-thinned - right?
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well - what if you shrunk yourself ?? does your printer have that function ??
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The challenges of scale have caught up with me. I made some nice nickel elbow fuel fittings. Real close to scale - but I couldn’t figure out how to make a good attachment to the .024 fuel lines - so I scrapped the nickel fittings- they will be useful some day - and made some plastic fittings that I can slip the ends of the fuel line in with some epoxy. Than painted them with some floquil gun metal. So they look okay - but they over-scale. Oh well ... also attached the nickel links.... with some cap screws fr RB motion ...
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Is anyone else following the restoration of the Gurney Lotus 29 at the Indy Museum w/site ?? Great stuff ...
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In case anyone was curious about the size difference in scale. 1/25th vs 1/24th. It is visible .... and the 25th scale engine is a little larger than the Gurney Eagle kit DOHC engine although both are supposed to be 25th scale ... I do not think that the Mad printed 25th sc engine will fit into the Gurney kit without some major mods. But I do suspect that the exhaust headers could be modified to use with the Gurney kit DOHC ... and that would be a big improvement.
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Vintage Formula 1 Heavy Metal Models
absmiami replied to Gramps46's topic in Other Racing: Road Racing, Salt Flat Racers
That kit sounds familiar ... I wonder if it ever .... traded places ??? -
Vintage Formula 1 Heavy Metal Models
absmiami replied to Gramps46's topic in Other Racing: Road Racing, Salt Flat Racers
You’ve posted a build of one of my holy grail kits - the Western Alfa 158 wh metal kit .... the search goes on .... -
Now back to The fuel distribution links ...I’ve made some links from nickel silver and I soldered up some .047 and .024 Brass tube to make the knuckle of the first of two central links ... And there is a .022 cap screw at the leading edge of the knuckle fr RB Motion painted black. That’s the screw that secures this part to the cross rod. ... on the real engine ...
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2 of the The inspection plates on the valve train cover Are safety wired. So I have removed the printed bolts and drilled some .012 holes for bolts. Gonna see if I can add the safety wires Would never bother with this except that this is going to be a display engine.
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And and and do you have/recall details of the engine ????? and yes. Photos would be really cool ... there are some good photos of the restored car from its display at the Amelia concourse in 2012 ...
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Once the linkage bar is on I took a shot at the leaver or crank or whatever it’s called. There are - per the drawings - 2 in the center of the cross bar - made fr .040 brass tube soldered onto .024 tube and then soldered to a small piece of .010 nickel strip - the tip of the strip will slide into a short length of .024 alu tube...
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Painted the fuel blocks with some Polly S blue anodized paint and then some flat black for the frame These paints dry quickly - so just a short time later I epoxied the nickel bracket - the location is tricky because of the stagger in the Cyl heads. But I think l got a good location. Now I can make the left and right hand brackets ...
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I managed to drill some .013 holes into the top of the gear train cover and placed two .013 pins and pinned the fuel block assembly in place. This allowed me to epoxy the bracket and make the adjustments needed to center the cross bar that holds the linkage levers - 2 in the center and one each side for the linkage to the injectors
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Starting with some .024 nickel rod I bent this to the shape of the bracket that straddles the fuel blocks in the center of the front gear train cover and soldered it to a strip of Nickel strip. Finished with some files and sanding sticks and careful with the balsa wood. It is flammable ...