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absmiami

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Everything posted by absmiami

  1. absmiami
    Ummm well done I'm the fortunate owner of one of these great kits still unbuilt - but hey - I've all of a sudden got all of this free time ….. please ask William how he finished the seats ? oil based paint ??? thanks for posting this, Gary
  2. absmiami
    the rack is glued to the chassis brace - liquid glue - Tamiya and glued to the chassis - have to do this now so I can determine the run of the steering column and position of the steering wheel - By doing this now I will leave off some details and features and have to make some finishing and painting compromises but I gotta do this now so that everything fits properly - the tie rod will just barely fit through and under the chassis rails …. anyway - once the gas tank is in place - it will be hard to see this stuff …. now for the pedals and brake fluid cylinders …. It seems that I somehow have a lot of extra weekend time to build and post ….. Looks like we'll all have some extra workshop time …. for a while - maybe I'll actually finish something !
  3. absmiami
    the resin opening for the front suspension pickups has to be ground back where marked for openings for the tie rod the car had a classic race car steering rack - a feature in all of the Cooper open wheelers made from contrail plastic tube - about .050 and some evergreen bits and pieces for the attachment braces and chassis support … - hope to have steerable front wheels I think - maybe ...
  4. absmiami
    the linkage back to the clutch case is a three part thing made from .024 nickel tube, and two connecting ends made from fine - 0.15? brass rods bent round, soldered, and drilled for the connecting pins to the stick shift and the clutch housing linkage
  5. absmiami
    watch making …. thanks - but I don't think so watches are supposed to run - bet I could make one from a kit [do they make those?] it would run about five minutes and then stop - and the minute hand would fall off - or something ... the driving compartment only has a few features levers made from nickel silver - one of the stick shift and one for a hand brake that hangs from a chassis joint on the cockpit left side - the knobs are 1/16 plastic rod sanded round
  6. absmiami
    I do not does anyone else ? maybe someone who frequents the Indy car forum?? ?? did you ever see his 24 scale Maserati 8CTF body ?? he probably never finished it - the lines detail and shape were excellent .....
  7. absmiami
    you never know - maybe the old man will pay us a visit when this is almost done ... best balsa vintage gauge sheet - used the medium sized tach evergreen tube and rod a stray photo-etched gauge ring bracket from filed/sanded evergreen .020 strip and tube that's about all there is to the instrumentation on an FIII cooper ...
  8. absmiami
    Deciding whether to begin a Bugatti 51 thread ..... the best starting point is the Conway Bugatti Grand Prix book with drawings of features of the type 51 and the 35 and 37. Published about 40 years ago It is still THE book on the Bugatti GP cars
  9. absmiami
    What a great looking instr panel the T51 dash is nearly the same as the T35
  10. absmiami
    There were no 35’s at Amelia today to compare but the 51 radiator is a little wider ... taller ? Don’t remember but I do have the great Bugatti 35 book published years ago that has both drawn to scale ....
  11. absmiami
    well, then .....?
  12. absmiami
    It’s a twin cam in a bugatti type 51 Fun fact the owner says that - excepting the size of the radiator - and of course the engine .... the body work is basically the same as the type 35 .....
  13. absmiami
    Offys at Amelia .....
  14. absmiami
    Mmmm .... exotics .....
  15. absmiami
    Off to Amelia island never know .... might see some .... old racing engines ....
  16. absmiami
    the alu fuel tank is perched above the driver's legs made from renshape - I'm adding the rivets before painting rivet holes are marked on some parafilm - 3M - just so I can re-mark - I'm just eyeballing the placement of holes - without placing marks in the surface of the tank the fuel tank cap sits in the depressed semi circle - and is accessible in front of the dash hoop ...
  17. absmiami
    there's lots going on in front of the driving compartment so I'm hinging the forward clip - but I've got to add a small section of renshape to the lower corners of the clip for this purpose the scrap renshape plug is glued on with CA - which will give it a chemical bond with the adjoining resin - and then sanded with sanding sticks and files ... the parts have to be precise because they hinge right next to the pick-ups for the front suspension arms ….. this will be delicate - I'll have to be careful with this hinge I'll reinforce them with small metal rings ….
  18. absmiami
    the Norton engine is back from the engine builder - the carbureter is still at the carb resto shop ... the engine is in for a test fit so I can trim and fit the engine cover - almost done it will pivot on a nickel silver rod - think it's .015
  19. absmiami
    Some more “art” ...
  20. absmiami
    Oh no you really want the workbench. Story? maybe after a beer or two ......
  21. absmiami
    the front engine brace is now attached with some .013 nickel rod and RB bolts and the timing chain cover is glued on to the crank case and the side of the plug distributor - if there is only one plug - is this a "distributor"? the carb needs an intake trumpet and some fuel wires before it is attached ... there are at least 2 oil lines running into and out of the crank case - possibly more - based upon photos of the crank case that I glommed from the 'net ... still figuring that out ...
  22. absmiami
    got the cam box on - with the valves and valve springs sitting on top of the head and barrel. and the rear engine brace is attached. The shaft running down to (up to?) crank case is the only polished part on the engine the spark plug is fr RB Motion, as are the boots for the plug and the distributor the plug wire dimension is .016 - which is perhaps slightly over-sized - .013 would have been more precise - but I did not have any yellow .013 plug wire - Detail Master makes them - and I didn't want to stop the build to order the correct size for an engine with just one spark plug ! have to replace a couple of engine bolts that went AWOL ...
  23. absmiami
    whilst pondering the Ferrari I got some paint onto the Norton Cooper engine flat, dull, and flat ... the "head and barrel" was painted with alclad fl aluminum and the crank case was painted with Tamiya flat black then added the bolt detail - mostly RB Motion - sizes .015 and .017 the first picture has a vertical shaft housing that runs from the crank case up to the cam box - made from 1.2 Mil nickel silver rod with some added detail top and bottom - will replace the white metal casting that is included in the Deeks kit - it's a very good part - but I modified it and it ended up to be to short for my needs … once I paint and attach the engine brackets I can attach the cam box and valve springs, and some other parts ….. its finally starting to look like an engine - but one that clearly has an 75 year old design …...
  24. absmiami
    Both the 166 and the 212 had the Colombo small displacement V12 learning how to use a measurement app on my camera phone .... this shows the length of the cam cover on the small displacement 12 ....
  25. absmiami
    Nothing yet on simeone website but since mistakes on the internet never get corrected - I think the Ferrari in question is a 166 F2 and not the 212 but the differences are slight I’ll post some more pics later this week .....
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