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Dragonhawk1066

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Everything posted by Dragonhawk1066

  1. Just the right amount of wear! What a thing of beauty this is going to be!
  2. Both are coming along nicely!
  3. I think I'm going to call it a day with the Testors Clears as well, I've been very happy with all of my Tamiya Clear subjects. Tamiya Tape is great as well, but it did lift the one spot on the roof. I usually try very hard not to mask over clear, but in this case my painting steps made it necessary. Hopefully I can store this situation in my memory banks and not let it happen again, lol.
  4. Thanks for the tip, the spots are small enough that I'm pretty sure some Pledge will blend them in. The decals are under the clear.
  5. Excellent Snake-Fu job!!
  6. I honestly can't remember what clear I used on it, but it was Testors/Model Master lacquers, as I have never bought their enamel clear. I have three different cans of clear opened, Testors Glosscote #1261, Testors Extreme Lacquer Wet Look Clear, and Model Master Gloss Clear #1961, so it was one of those. I've had each of them for less than 2 years, but don't know how long they were on the shelf before I bought them.
  7. Looking mighty fine so far! What did you use for the brake/fuel lines, they look really good.
  8. Good looking Goat! I love Tamiya Sprays, they're almost like using an airbrush.
  9. Thanks, unfortunately this has happened before with Testors clears, so I'm pretty confident I can make the necessary repairs and not have it very noticeable. I've had great results with Tamiya clears, and while I really try to match brands when painting and clearing, I may just be done with Testors Clears and go exclusively with Tamiya Clears.
  10. That is certainly a viable method, but this is just a much easier process for me. Most of the time it's not an issue painting the body first, especially on cars with a black interior. On lighter colored interiors with a matching lighter headliner, I usually try not to get too much paint on the inside of the body. I always just brush on craft paints for the inside of the bodies and on the headliners. Because of that, I really like to get the body wet-sanded before that step as the craft paints are water based and I don't want to take the chance of losing some paint during the wet-sand process. I painted this one two months ahead of when I started to build it and wasn't sure what color I would be painting the headliner, but I did make the mistake of getting too much paint on the inside of the body.
  11. Well done with some nice extra details! I like your backgrounds as well.
  12. Well done!
  13. Excellent build all around!!
  14. Great job on both! Nice presentation as well, with the Hertz backdrop.
  15. I taped off the outside of the body and painted the headliner. I used Stynylrez white primer through my airbrush. Unfortunately, while removing the masking tape, the clear peeled off in four different areas. The front passenger side of the roof, a small spot on the driver's 1/4 panel, a small spot on the passenger front fender, and a bigger spot on the passenger 1/4 panel. This is at least the third time I have had this happen with Testors Clears. The first three times, the clear had cured for about a week before masking. while this time the clear had cured for two months. I'll try wet-sanding the spots smooth, and brush on some Pledge Floor Gloss. This process worked pretty well the first three times, so hopefully it works again here.
  16. Nice job! That color works very well for that car!
  17. Nice! The pearl blue looks good on it!
  18. Looks good. I built that one too, and it is a pretty nice kit for a snapper. I bought the build 2gether snap/glue combo kit and still have the glue version to build. I may go a different direction with it though.
  19. I did notice a flaw on the driver's side 1/4 panel when I got it back out of the box from when I painted it back in August. When I put it in the box after paint, decals, and clear back in mid-August, everything looked fine. When I got it back out last week, I saw what looked like a scratch or some kind of separation from the paint and clear. I thought it would sand out and even itself out, but I sanded down to the color and it was still there. I still have some of the paint left in the can and will spray it into a bottle cap and try to touch it up with a brush. I don't think taping it off and spraying it will end well. Stripping it is out of the question as well, since I don't have nor do I intend to buy anything for that purpose. Whatever I have after the touch-up is what it will look like, so hopefully it works out well, lol.
  20. I got my spare set of Draglites cleaned and painted today. I sprayed Molotow Chrome from my refill bottle at about 20 psi. I also got the body wet-sanded and polished. I started with 4000, and then 6000 grit sandpaper, then switched to Micro Mesh Polishing pads for the 8000, and finally 12000. I followed that up with some Novus #2 polish. I'm going to wait until I get the BMF on before I wax it, hoping the foil sticks better than it did on my last build, the '67 Impala.
  21. Nice looking Dyno, and GTX!
  22. That looks great!
  23. Thanks guys, I sprayed Molotow on the wheels (resin wheels from MAD Modeling, which are great wheels by the way), but I didn't prep them very well and they look much better in the pics than in person. With that, I decided to strip the Molotow in order to do a better prep and paint on them. I used 91% isopropyl alcohol and after 30 seconds the paint was coming off very quickly. I probably didn't need to soak them for more than 3-5 minutes, however for some reason I let them set overnight. This pics show the result. All four had softened, with one of the deep dish wheels separating, and the other distorted. The skinnier fronts are basically ok, other than being softened. Lesson here, go with your gut instincts and don't let parts soak any longer than they need to, especially resin. Good thing when I bought these, I got 2 sets, and I will definitely buy more soon because they are nicely casted wheels. At least I learned my lesson on a $5 set of wheels rather than a 40-50 dollar body. As for the Charger, I hope to get most of the rest of the parts painted tomorrow, and hopefully Saturday will be wet-sanding and polishing the body day.
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