MikeMc

Ah Harry............

That is MORE than my first house cost me back in the mid 80s!!!

mechanical or juice brakes?? No disks of course... I prefer the excitement that mechanical brakes give......will they work ?????? ;)

Really lousy magnified image of the real deal.... ;)

So did the "Pacer"

I'm with the DR....But I shoot year round...back room, door sealed, fan blowing anything out, booth pumpin thru the filters...75 to 80 degrees...paint lays flat and no blush, so that means I'm blowing A/C into the yard........and I only shoot lacquers and dehydrate them cause I can...

You may need to check a couple of stores....Wallys has a die cast aisle....look there

Thanks for both links in one post!!!

Thought this was going to be a lowrider thread... Yes, I model cars and I scrape..and usually scrape too much :D I still use my # 11 blade or triangular riffler...if a sanding stick will work to keep things square..OK!! you really need a good surface for any bond to hold....so I do scrape!!

it does work well for "dust coats"....right before the final blocking

I love the Jag ...Cutaways show the complexity of the auto....or the lack of!

OH YEAH !!!!! SUNDAY, SUNDAY, SUNDAY at THE GROVE............ :D The days of my youth.....

Do you mean it has runs?? One thing about acrylics is dry time...they need to be thin enough to spray, but thick enough to cover. That said with the cold temp and 30psi I suspect you are trying to get too much coverage in one coat. So what to do now....if the surface has a lot of runs, strip or sand depending on what you have, reprime and let dry. 30 psi will work fine...but you will need to adjust your distance for your airbrush and paint thickness...in short, the paint, pressure, pattern of the brush, and distance to surface all factor in. I prefer lacquers for many reasons, but acrylics have a lot of advantages going for them. Do some searches here or in tips and tuts..there is a lot of good advice posted

If you work acrylics properly, you will never brush paint enamels again. You usually need to keep the brush moistened with the correct thinner....you can use alcholol but I stick with tamiyas own with tamiya acrylics. You cannot recoat them when still wet as they will glob...I prime first, then brush one coat, not going back. PUT DOWN NOW AND LET DRY!!.....NOPE DO NOT EVEN LOOK AT IT.!! come back in 10 minutes and now check....recoat if needed and you should have a smooth job. I shoot lacquers outside and acrylics inside...both brushed and airbrushed...thinner is your friend.... The biggest advantage acrylics have is water cleanup..and quick dry time but no smells!!

Start with a bag of each...under 15.00 for all 3....or omit the #9008 and spend 10.00 for a good start! I bought those when I started in 07..still have the bags, and bought a lot more since don't forget a good solvent cement! Yep... Evergreen #217 rod and tube assortment and Evergreen #9008 plain assortment and Evergreen #9002 odds and ends..sheet

Keith...get a free photobucket account. Then follow Clays tut on posting if needed. Spencer shows you how....

First attempt?? Looks great....the block looks like its been there for a while...nice I thought it was a real building with a model out front

Dave found Greggs Mustang parked on the internet hose again....PMs exchanged, Gregg has now moved the car and Harry is going to repaint Greggs parking space in the Golden Press parking lot................... :blink:

Try center punch.........ric isn't needed

This is soo good..gotta bump it up!

color is right on...TS60?

Great idea.....now that twisties are long gone here, replaced by plastic clips....Oh well....I still have PB &J B)

That looks 100% better...well done!! The pie cut makes the lines much smoother!! Keep it coming!! B)