MikeMc

Cyanoacrylates (CAs) have become the adhesive of choice for most hobby and household applications. High quality CAs such as INSTA-CUREâ„¢, when used properly, form bonds that in many cases are stronger than the material that is being adhered. INSTA-CUREâ„¢ is a highly refined CA which, combined with its freshness, gives a guaranteed 2 year shelf life. CAs are reactive monomers that chemically link (polymerize) when pressed into a thin film. The very thin layer of water moisture present on most surfaces acts as an alkali, or weak base, which is the catalyst that results in bonding; however, the presence of detectable amounts of water usually degrades the performance of CAs. Thanks to Bob Smith Industries for these facts..... http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

Stopped in at the LHS today in my quest for Tenax That failed but I did get a brochure from them all about adhesives..from Bob Smith Industries. I learned a lot about these CA products......here is a quote about CA "Cyanoacrylates (CAs) have become the adhesive of choice for most hobby and household applications. High quality CAs such as INSTA-CUREâ„¢, when used properly, form bonds that in many cases are stronger than the material that is being adhered. INSTA-CUREâ„¢ is a highly refined CA which, combined with its freshness, gives a guaranteed 2 year shelf life. CAs are reactive monomers that chemically link (polymerize) when pressed into a thin film. The very thin layer of water moisture present on most surfaces acts as an alkali, or weak base, which is the catalyst that results in bonding; however, the presence of detectable amounts of water usually degrades the performance of CAs." http://www.bsi-inc.c...s/hobby/ca.html http://www.bsi-inc.c.../hobby/how.html

I like Donns Idea..but humidity down here is bad, iron pipe will rust quickly...So I use PVC tubing...I' or 1 1/4' I learned the same way......

I gotta agree with these guys. I will add that one trick with resin is a good thorough cleaning done BEFORE any sanding or work is done. This will prevent mold release from geting on your tools and sandpaper causing all sorts of problems that show up later.......much later

Do not forget about bugs.....yup, termites and silverfish to name a couple that will wreck decals, instructions , and boxes. You do need a warm, moist environment for most issues and most commercial units are climate controlled..... termites eat cellulose thats what paper is made from, silverfish eat starches...found in glue...decals Heat will damage the plastic, cold will not....

OK that settles it ...................REAL

If I see a lot of patina in greens, metallic silvers,you will need the wide whites to break the car and ground....

Google......??????

MOM........VIRGIL is sniffing the reducer again :lol:

I didn't invent anything in the hobby....BUT I will steal all YOUR good tips and ideas in a flash!!! :) So thanks for all past and future ideas!! B) Same way...HOK does have the marbleizing paints in the book http://www.ecsvr.com...cat=MARBILIZERS

Gravity feed is for low pressure fine detailing...you do not need that for body painting...That said if you have the option of putting them in your hand, use the feel test...which feels best to you, then you will be comfortable with your tool.

Tower has it for $38.00 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXLL&P=W

Well done..wish I had known about the rockers when I did mine....minor flaws..I love this kit and your build!! B)

Interesting idea Kev...IMHO those wires are too small and look lost in the wells...See if you can find some 17 or 19" wires...those are just too small

One tip I will add.. On final assembly the rockers on the frame hang below the body and need body color, not frame color. I noticed this after paint was done..I used BMF to foil them...you can see it in my pics if you look

Black Gold packages real HOK paints in spray cans...I used duplacolor linen white as the base on this build, Tamiya does have a clear with pearl in it which will give any paint more pop!...In the second link Tony builds a sweet Maroon and white slammed 60.....

As the wip showed those are pegasis Ts Thanks...I was leery of the color, HOK Hot Pink Pearl..over white with rose pearl in the clear...but it seems to work! and is just about OOB!

Pick your colors carefully. This kit is full of detail and chrome, with a good set of interior decals. The decals are done in red so that will limit your color choices if you go that way.I just did this one a while back and did go with a few extras in the form of pegasis wheels and disc brakes,lowered it all the way, and as the kit comes with a sweet 348 tri power, running dual exhausts..not much more is needed but your own twist !!! click on the picture above for the wip.......click the thumbnail below to see all the pictures this link will get you to Tony Ts JWAC build!! http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=30582

What a great build!!!!!!

Is that the balsa foam??

http://lmgtfy.com/?q...anel+paint+jobs Then click on images for pictures, or look at the different web sites

I kept it shut... ..not now , cause the motor is sweet..in my album!! Here is a blown Hemi........

Kevin.....the vac might be the problem...static electricity. Mist it down with windex or tap water, let it drip dry, mop the floor with a towel by blotting. I might suggest a bounty fabric softener sheet taped down to the floor....it will help reduce static charges

Denis...this is going to turn out great!! I just did the same idea but to a 50....and used stock steel wheels. ...I love the look you have with the big wheel , section job, the long bed makes it even lower! I will watch this further, so keep up the great cutting!! and your English is quite understandable....better than some natives...... I also did a minor top chop along with the section

.....do we need to post our spoons under glass????