bobss396

I get mine either at shows or eBay. I forget the seller, use the filter... free shipping. He has the full PPP tire line, the roll cage kits and window nets.

Ron Coon is hard to beat for many reasons. He also sells on Etsy, a couple of mouse clicks.. the parts are on their way.

Wow. I know local guys with enormous collections. One supposedly is over 5000 un-builts.

I had another gem like that. A Revell 1940 Ford painted outside with an old small can of Duplicolor I got for 99 cents. My kids were at a scout camp that weekend, late November and 30 F. The car won anywhere it was entered in a contest and was featured in a magazine from Masscar, IIRC.

The old MPC line modified tires are decent for treaded tires. Performance Plastics has nice slicks made of rubber. Best overall source, Ron Coon Resins. I have a '66 Impala going (BACK IN THE BOX!!) and used Ron's slicks. I did have to close the rear wheel wells a bit. I'm using a Winston Cup chassis with about a 3/8" stretch.

I've had them where it was easier to cut the A pillar loose, deal with it and re-attach it.

Eyeball-engineering rules for me. If it looks good, it likely is good. I use steel scales and a dial caliper for most measuring, a micrometer now and then. There is also the cut-and-try method, font be afraid to make a mistake, learn from them

I'd like to get into designing and making my own 3D parts, but I'm not willing to dive down that rabbit hole at this time. It would consume me without a doubt. My hat is off to those who have stuck with it and are doing amazing things with it. My brother is interested in going in with me on it, but I don't think he fully understands what it takes. I do have a new i7 computer that should be able to handle it all.

His best 2 roles had to be in Heat and Tombstone.

In the 1960s there were a lot of short rubs of shows, or just a few seasons at most. Memorable were: Run Buddy Run, The Invaders, Dickenson and Fenster (with Marty Ingalls and John Astin).

And if you had on clean faded jeans.. they were not clean for very long. Most trucks I drove smelled of gas, burned oil and stake beer... of course cigarettes if someone smoked. Sometimes we got lucky and found a fresh-ish Xmas tree freshener in a junk car. Not like it helped a ton...

Many years ago I had left some models outside exposed to the elements for at least a few weeks. I rediscovered them.. you could not ask for a better weathering-patina look.

As a kid, I had a box of model parts hoarded up. My mom worked in a store and brought home big coat boxes with lids. So when I was bored and broke, I'd dive into the box and build something.

I'm liking the Vallejo line of paint. I get the acrylic bottles at Hobby Lobby. I squeeze some out in an old bottle cap, add a couple drops of water and stir it up. I was using it un-cut, thinned helps it lay down more betterer.

My aunt Adele had one, the base model, zero frills with the 6 and manual shift. She drove that up until around 1975.

I use rattle cans almost exclusively. I have 3 airbrushes, but lack indoor space to paint/ set up a booth. I paint outside, any weather outside of rain or snow. I did paint a NASCAR truck outside in a drafty back porch with snow blowing through the cracks, at night with just a jelly-jar light next to the door. It was a Tamiya TS spray and it came out fine. Just about anything like a body goes into the dehydrator. I now let them flash off for about 10 minutes first. A good primer is key to any paint work. I like Mr. Surfacer, Tamiya of course and Duplicolor

I do a lot of drilling and pinning of parts and assemblies. I'm in the habit of test fitting everything. I try to leave nothing to chance in the late stages. There is nothing worse than having a CA or epoxy applied part getting away from you. Pinning will reduce the amount of any adhesive you will need.

I use metric for everything. 1 mm.(.03937"... .040" .. close enough) = 1 inch. 1.5 mm = 1.5", pretty close for radiator hoses. A quick and easy metric conversion: For example, convert 1.2 mm to inches, multiply the 1.2 x 4, and you get 4.8, now shift the decimal 2 places to the left and you get .048". I do most of these in my head.

Thanks Matt. I have a body now with a wood grain look in a few isolated spots. I bought some stock car bodies that are quite good. These came with the scaffolding, so I have an idea how it was grown. We did a lot of printing at work. Mainly tooling work that was quite accurate dimensionally. Assembly tools for the most part. I've been out of there for 5 years, but everything was done in the flat. We had one desk top printer, parts had to be pried off with a spatula.

I watched almost zero TV between 1973 and 1983. This was the heyday of inane sitcoms from what little I did see, I did not miss much.

35 F but sunny. The past winter has had it all, heavy wind and rain, not much snow... which is okay. Maybe a 20" total. 1996 we topped 100" of snow with the President's Day dump of 30". I think it was 1971 or 1972, for Easter break it snowed heavily. My brother was camping with a church group.

I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the topic but... why are some parts made on angled supports? I see some smaller ones on steeper angles, some car bodies I've gotten were as much as on a 30* angle. Does this improve the surface finish?

I was up around 4 am with the wind and rain, it was 51 F, 2 hours later, 45. Real Monsoon rain from 10 last night up til an hour ago.

Well there are high-build primers and there is always stucco to fall back on.

49 F and overcast... again. Saturday was a big tease, going to be cool most of the week.