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Everything posted by bobss396
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That was always a great kit. I had a parts collection from the kit and I used the interior on a '49 Mercury. It was shallow enough that I cut the bottom off the factory '49 interior tub and located the '66 tub above it.
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I'm going to hit the "easy" button with the finished exhaust. I have no desire to be farting around routing the semi-flex cable through small openings on a painted body/chassis. But it will look good. I worked on it earlier yesterday but went plant shopping with the girlfriend, got home late.
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The aluminum box was fun. I'm leaving it bare metal. Getting the exhaust in will be fun. I will have to do it in 2 pieces per side and join it somewhere. Probably do that before the body goes on.
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No room plus it looks neat going out the side. More ground clearance since they were required to have mufflers. The cars got lower and lower over the years. This is what I got done today. It may need some fitting. Used .010" step flashing. I may close up part of the floor outside the frame rail... or close the whole deal up and find some small diameter mufflers. It was also good to get the noise out from under the car.
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Quite nicely done. The AMT '65 Ford kit has that air cleaner and hoses in it.
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I'm doing one now as a stock car, the hood will stay as-is. Opening up the rear wheel wells, I noticed that one side of the body is thicker than the other.
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Galaxie 1947 Chevrolet Fleetmaster
bobss396 replied to Katsusauce's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I needed decals for my kits, they had them and it was like $8 per set. -
I mix things up... oh well. The photos are correct. I'm going to mess around with it later on and maybe open up the floor and build a "shelf" inside the car. Real stock cars did exit them from the passenger side, a no-go for this one, as the headers are on the driver side. The interior had a raised portion on the passenger side so there was a ton of room to route the exhaust.
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I could open the floor up, I would have to make longer pipes or make them in 2 pieces. I'm using RG405 semi flex cable as flex pipe. I would need to make a joiner from .125" aluminum tube. Then bring the partition up to the trunk wall. So the bottom would be exposed. This in theory would make it cooler on the driver.
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40 Ford Sedan Delivery
bobss396 replied to T-Ray's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
I have made the center hood trim from half round plastic stock. I have a bunch of these kits on-hand. -
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40 Ford Sedan Delivery
bobss396 replied to T-Ray's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Looking good. I just almost finished a '40 coupe. The hood fit is a challenge.. take your time with it. -
You can see the boxed area behind the driver. On a real car, the floor would be open and there would be a partition likely back to the trunk wall. I'm sneaking the pipes up as dummies. I made the exhaust plate over, it needed to be bigger. I added more bars to the cage and from the firewall. It needed something. I'm not sure what year the cages went out to the front.
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That is the side the headers come out on. Yes, the driver side. I boxed it out inside and it is behind the cage
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What's with the U.S.Post office these days?
bobss396 replied to styromaniac's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
I ordered a 50 pound pail of pool chlorine tabs yesterday on eBay, free 2-day shipping... should be interesting as to when it shows up. Will be likely by UPS. I have bought some things on eBay and they show up via Amazon, the next day. Amazon seems to be doing something right. -
I am not following what you mean....
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1950 Cadillac series 61, 1/24-1/25 wanted.......
bobss396 replied to Allan31's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Contact Don from Modelhaus, I know he was selling off stock and some masters a year ago, not cheap. -
This looks great. My only complaint is the trim across the middle of the door. It will make it harder to decal a logo on it. I will definitely want at least 2 of them.
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Got the wheel well fixed. Putty is next. Clearance the crossmember for the exhaust. Pipes are roughed out and made a side exit plate. I have to box off an area on the floor pan.
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I saw it, awesome to say the least. I will post a picture later from my phone.
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I'm working on 1 car at a time right now.. see how long that lasts. If I have some common tasks, I will combine the efforts. I'm adding some more bars to the cage on the '51 and decided to run the exhaust up through the floor and out behind the passenger door. I also have to fudge the rear wheel opening on one side, remove about .060" from the rear and add the same to the front. This is why I pin things together, imagine finding that after paint....
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This was one class that permitted cow ? catchers, to a point. Almost always angle iron and black pipe. I'm considering door bars and maybe 2 bars from the cage to the chassis rails.
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Figure 8 drivers are another breed. We had one guy who looked like Barney Rubble. We pitted away from them, too much chaos when they would pit for repairs. A few guys became great modified drivers.
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Back on the bench. The Chevy 6 fits well. I had to make more clearance on the floor. I made a mount for the rear bumper yesterday. And got a few things painted. I added 2 pieces of angle stock on the firewall as a stop. Also 2 mounting blocks in the trunk, these are pinned to the chassis so it goes back together the same way every time. I mounted the interior to the chassis to make assembly easier. Next will be final chassis prime, install the radiator frame and get some gauges going for the dash. I still may hinge the trunk lid.