Raul_Perez

I may have to ask your dad about this comment the next time I see him...

Marcos, It's all loolking really great, but I particularly like the light weathering you've done to the bottom!! Keep up the GREAT work!! Later,

And...I want one!! I'm just not willing to pay $50 for the ones I've seen on eBay for the relatively few pieces that make this version unique... Thanks for sharing, Art!! Later,

OK...so next year when GM is owned by the government, I say that we all vote for Harry as the chief designer!!

Looking good, Scott!! I dropped the screw heads in the mail this morning...you should get them before the weekend... Later,

Congratulations, Dave!! Make sure that you get him a subscription to MCM for his 1st birthday!! Until then, he can follow along with the rest of us on the forum!!

Cool build!! I always did like the long, low GM cars of the era!! I also liked many of the custom parts that came in the Styline kits. Thanks for sharing,

WOW!! The rust work looks extremely authentic!! Thanks for sharing!! Later,

Hey, Dave...now that Chrysler owns what is left of Studebaker, (through their previous acquisition of American Motors), I'd give it a Viper look and feel. Make a removable rear deck to cover the back seats, add a custom, two-tone paint job with some bright pinstripes, a cool, custom leather interior and there you go!! No, wait...these are pictures of the Stude that I bought already built this way from DM!! Sorry...I couldn't help myself... Later,

Yep...you know how to do it...you've got the right tools and knowledge, you just need good material to work with to get the results you're looking for...

Bernard, Seeing this picture of the sheet of BMF that you used on your Shoebox Ford explains the wrinkles and bumps I saw in the windshield trim, which prompted my comment about burnishing after you trim the foil. These wrinkles and bumps in the finish appear to be secondary affects of the adhesive going bad; it doesn't stay consistently applied to the foil... I think I mentioned that Windex, or any other Ammonia based cleaning product, will remove any residual BMF adhesive from the model without damaging most paints. The exception is latex-based paints, but that's more for the military and train folks... Good luck!! Later,

Very nicely built!! With the right background and photography, this one could be a candidate for "real or model"!! Thanks for sharing,

It's looking good, Bernard!! Remember, ALWAYS use a new blade and burnish before and after the cuts. Keep up the GREAT work, my friend!! Later,

Scott, Until recently, Model Car Garage carried these as item# MCG-609. Unfortunately they no longer list them in their catalog, but you may be able to find a hobby shop that still has some. I got my last set from the less than a year ago... Let me know if you can't find them. I have extras... Later,

Yes, Peter, I do remember this model!! I also remember the tires that had raised Dunlop lettering on one side and Goodyear on the other. I built this version, along with the Martini and Jagermeister cars...but that was a long time ago. It was so long ago that I'd have to scan some very old color photos to share the builds with you guys!! I also built 3 of the 1:12th scale Martini Porsches, one of the 1:12th scale Jagermeister Porsches and several of the early 1:20th scale F1 cars. I sold all of them several years ago... You did a GREAT job opening the hood and detailing your build!! As I recall, these models had really nice body detail, but everything else was pretty simplistic. Thanks for the memories and thanks for sharing an old classic!! Later,

Very nice work, Virgil!! Are you going to use BMF or paint for the window trim? Thanks for sharing!!! Later,

Very nice techniques, Virgil!! Thanks for sharing!!

I'll second all of that!!

Nice looking start to your build, Dave!! If you chop the top, I hope that you open up the quarter-panel window more than the one you posted a picture of. To me, there is just too much mass between the quarter glass and the back window, giving the car a very heavy look... Keep us posted on your progress!! BTW: What's going on with your chop-top '40 Fords? Later,

Neal, What I found that works really well with small features like windshield posts and small frames is to glue the parts together with liquid glue, then come in with a small, round router tool on my Dremel on the back-side of the joint and cut a small channel that's a little wider than diameter of wire I'm going to use. I typically make these channels 1/4" to 1/2" long, depending on how much strength I need. I then superglue a clean piece of brass into the channel and sand off any excess glue once it dries. If you look at the photo below, you can see the brass wire on the inside of the front windshield opening on the passenger side. In this example, I didn't put wires in the "B" pillars because the roof was strong enough from doing it to the "A" pillars and the large "C" pillars carry most of the load from handling the model. Later, Raul

Very nice, clean build, Mike!! This makes me want to build one!! Thanks for sharing,

A true work of art has no front, back, top, bottom, left or right side to it...it is something that can be viewed and admired equally from any angle. This is not a model...it is a work of art!! Congrats on another awesome build!! Later,

Looking good, my old friend!! Is there any type of model car that you don't build? Later,

Very nice build!! Thanks for the extra pics!! Later,