NOBLNG

Imaginable scenarios in just about every arena have have expanded enormously.

Draw the shape of the part you need on a sheet of 0.04” or 0.06” styrene. Drill a hole in the center void, cut the perimeter close to size, then file the interior and exterior to shape. It could stay as square tubing or you could file/sand them round. Fiddly work but unless you can find suitable kit parts or have access to a 3d printer it may be your best bet.

Perhaps a complete disassembly and thorough cleaning may help if there are any issues with the airbrush itself. Once again I will recommend a Paasche H if you should decide to get another one.

Relationships are becoming increasingly purely electronic.

It wasn’t me.

Super deal for a dollar!🙂 A guy at a local flea market has some nice precision stuff like that but he wants a fortune for them.😕 I use this AK pin vise. It will grip from a #24 (.152) down to a #78 (.016).

Wow!😳 That body was really rough looking. It looks pretty good now though. That kit was very lucky to have found you Len.😬

I glued the grill and tail light panels on the GT350 and started smoothing the seams. Also got most of the engine parts glued together.

The paint is looking gorgeous David!😎

What I would do for filling door lines is to fill them with round or half round styrene and Tamiya thin cement. Smoosh it in real good and scrape/sand flush when fully dry. You could use the butt end of a drill bit to re-scribe the seams to match the size of evergreen you have. (0.030” drill for 0.030” evergreen for example). The putty should work also, but I would use a primer/sealer over it. Bear in mind that I am no expert JMO.🤔

Itch that won’t go away may require some salve.

Just an update for anyone perplexed by this conundrum.🙄 A club member that I talked to last year about the car gave me some info yesterday. He said the car went up for sale and has since been sold and moved to Alberta. He also said that the car was in an accident at some point and was not repaired to stock . He did manage to get a photo off of the ad for me.

I wondered whether the bodies on these were steel or aluminum so I went looking online. It appears only some of the very early ones had hand built aluminum bodies. Here is a good site for info: https://www.porsche356registry.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=579966&module_id=739250

I don’t intend to ever get competitive but here’s my take on it. If the model (or a substantial portion of it) can be reproduced with the touch of a button then it is not scratch built and should have its own category.

I hate these big folded instruction sheets so….I took pictures of all the assembly steps for this AMT Mustang, re-sized them all and made a small booklet from them that fits nicely in the box.🤓

Nice work on hinging the dump bed and doors. the weathering is looking quite realistic too.😎

Last night and this morning I chopped up this Mobius F-100.😈

Here’s a little better mockup.

A VERY preliminary mockup…I only started on it a couple of hours ago.…but it’s been burning a hole in my brain since I found this picture.🤪 I will be shortening the wheelbase at some point. I’m thinking the tires from the Mount’ N Goat Jeepster might be a nice compromise.🤔 Edit: THAT’S more like it.😎

Phase one of your model project is researching a plan and step two is stepping away from the keyboard.

Wow, you work quick. Nice job on the weathering!👍

We are dog-sitting my wife’s sister’s dog for the next couple of days. He is a Bernese Mountain dog and a very needy boy. Nice dog but suffers from separation anxiety. He misses his mama and almost never stops panting .

I got these pics online and I think most of them are real vehicles? Anyways, I think they are cool and I definitely intend to try the blue cab forward F150. If anyone wants to add cool inspirational truck photos, real or CGI, Please do. Edit: No stock trucks please.🙂