NOBLNG

Pastimes were the good times.

I have no problem with the vehicles themselves…it’s the badging that I have an issue with. It may be a fantastic car (?) but it is NOT a Mustang or a Camaro. Are these designers so void of imagination that they can’t come up with a new name for their completely new creation?

While researching pics for, my ‘37 Chevy Cabriolet build, I ran across this beauty.😬 Disclaimer: I have no intention of trying to replicate it, I don’t care for the roof, but I do like the color scheme. https://rmsothebys.com/auctions/pa18/lots/r0045-1937-chevrolet-master-cabriolet-by-duval/

My favourite generation of Chevelle! Outstanding work so far Sir!👍😎

Looks better without the flames.😎

I know how you feel about needing a break. I tend to get obsessed with stuff and after a while it becomes counterproductive. Then I switch to another of a few I have on the go…or maybe start another.🥴

Truly inspiring work you are doing here Jon. I like the new fender trim termination.👍 For gauging the width of stuff like that and especially window trim, I made a scriber out of a piece of stiff wire. It can be spread to whatever width is required.

Nice work on the headlight bar Jim. I think a nice turquoise blue or olive-ish green would look nice with the black fenders.

According to this article the early versions had the scalloped valve covers and later ones did not. I believed it was a poly because of the (sorta) equal spaced exhaust ports and valve cover bolt arrangement. Probably much better 3d printed stuff available anyways. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-0109-chryslers-poly-head-engine/ Edit: OK, it’s just a lump…the valve cover bolts are NOT correct for a poly…my bad.😕

Thanks Trevor. Good to know that this is how the compounds are supposed to behave. I polished this Dart and thought it looked good after wet sanding with 4,6,8 and 10,000 then the three grades of polish. But when I took a second look there were a lot of swirly scratches that I hadn’t noticed. So I went over the drivers door again with 8 & 10 then the polishes. I think I may just be rushing the process.🥴 I’m happy with the drivers door now and I put quite a few coats of clear so hopefully I can get the rest of it smoothed out.

I am trying to learn better paint and polishing techniques. I elected to use this body for a test mule. I primed it with Tamiya grey then painted it with Mr. Color #77 metallic green. I very lightly rubbed a spot on the roof and trunk with #3000 trizact to remove some boogers. Then I cleared it with three coats of Duplicolor perfect match gloss. I suspected that the sanded spots would show since it is a metallic paint…and it does. However, this is only a test mule so now I know better for any future project.🤓 I then wet sanded the right half of the roof with 4,6,8 and 10,000 and polished it with the three Tamiya compounds.

Thanks David. The coarse definitely exhibits this behaviour the most markedly, but the two finer grades also go clear after a brief rubbing. Fwiw, I am using some eyeglass cleaning cloths for polishing since I got a bunch of them cheap on Amazon.

I have the coarse, fine and finish compounds. They all seem to behave the same way. After only a few seconds of rubbing they go clear and slippery.

I am trying to polish a paint job that has been cleared with Mr. Hobby UV cut gloss. I have wet sanded up to #10,000. When I put a bit of coarse polish on a cloth and start rubbing, I can feel it cutting. Then after a short while, the compound goes clear and the surface seems to get “slippery”. Is this normal and what does it mean? Is it still doing any cutting at this point or do I just stop and go to the next stage? Thanks for any insight. Greg

There is a version of one in the AMT ‘41 Plymouth.

This is my only weathered finish. Not really sun bleached.

Burgers are one of my favourite foods especially the Wendys baconator.

Nice work getting the new engine and trans in there. I sympathize with you about the cascading effect that doing simple modifications can have.😬

Thanks Steve. I myself have had very little luck stretching sprue.🥴 Stretched sprue is still round and I have round Evergreen that is OK size wise.

Thanks Jose.👍 I have a ton of pics downloaded. Finding pics of original, un-modified stuff is the challenge.

I have .015” and .020” round evergreen which may work. I could carve a trench for it to sit in but getting it to NOT look “wavy” might be a challenge which is why I’d prefer to make some half round if if possible. The pedals are definitely being deleted.😬

I am tempted to replace the dual beads on the side of the body, as they should extend back to about where this mold line is. And they are missing on the cowl between the door and hood, so it may be best to replace them with half round. .030” would work for the lower one, but there is no smaller half round for the upper bead so I may have to make some if I decide to go that route. The interior tub is pretty crappy and neither of the dashboards locate nicely.😕 So I am in the process of fixing stuff.🤯 The gaps from side to side are nowhere close to symmetrical. Still re-engineering stuff.🥵 I may have to get rid of that box on the floor and put in a proper trans tunnel…but that’s yet to be determined.

Thank you for your interest Gents! I hope to fix a few of the fitment issues and upgrade it slightly. The wheels and tires were missing, and there was no stock engine, but for $5….I’m happy.🙂 The supercharged 454 supplied in the kit is a bit ridiculous without a complete ground up rebuild, so I am just going to swap in a 283 and cast iron powerglide from the Revell ‘56 DelRay, like someone may have done back in the 50’s or early 60’s. Some nice mags or maybe steelies and baby moons and good enough….maybe something along these lines.😎

The raised sections on either side of the grill should actually be part of the fenders, so I scribed some new panel lines and used some Milliput to blend the transition. These were very handsome looking cars…more elegant than the Fords in my opinion.😎 While I was working on the running boards, I filed off the 3/4” bolts that AMT used to attach them and am kinda winging it with some new mounts. Undercarriage photos of original equipment are pretty scarce, and I don’t really care if I’m completely accurate.🤯 Edit: I think someone at AMT left the bolt head making machine on overnight.😬

There are precious few early Chevys portrayed here, so when a club member offered this up for $5 I jumped on it.😬 It’s obviously not a great kit…but it does have potential I think with a bit of detailing. Edit: Little interest is no wonder…that is pretty pathetic box art!😳 I glued the fenders and inner fenders onto the body. And typical of older AMT kits, one side is waaaay thicker than the other.🥴 A first thing I need to address is the poor mounting of the body to frame/running boards….no more iffy location going forward.😜 Another thing I want to address is the running boards. The outer edges should be dead straight and not have a bulge approaching the front fender. So I filed them straight. I had to add some material to the passenger side to get there.🥵 And I added the chrome trim along the edge from .030” half round, as well as the missing bead that should go halfway around the rear fender.