NOBLNG

It is a self binding taper. I have never had the cup or a bottle come loose on my Paasche H, and I have used the bottles a lot. Just give it a slight twist and push to connect. Which model did you get? They have two different inclination angles for the VL and the H, so the bottles are not interchangeable. I only have experience with the H.

Thanks Dennis….no, I think I’m going with the hemi again. I’ll need some serious power to turn these big tires I’m trying to stuff under it.?

Thank Guys!

Walgreens is a store we don’t have around these parts.

That looks pretty close to me. And just plain PRETTY! How about a pic of your ride??

Check out how I did the interior in my thread James. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/175855-chopped-up-‘32-ford/#comment-2642718

Thanks for the tip Bil. I’ll investigate that method on my next one.?

This is my first attempt at channeling and I think I lucked out on it. The tabs do help! I raised the floor approximately 1/4” and it just works out that the rear panel can be split in the middle and lapped. The bottom section moves up with the floor, and the top moves down with the door panels. The door panels need to be re-notched to fit inside the floor pan, but the floor can be set on the new tabs and used as a template for the notches.

Thanks Jim. Yes, cutting the entire A pillar out this time (two cuts) worked much better than taking a chunk out and leaning the stubs forward and backwards (three cuts).

Thanks Brian. They do look beautiful. Once again shipping makes them pretty pricey.? I picked up the MPC kit from a local hobby shop and will see what I can do with it first.

I want to put one under a tubbed ‘32 Ford, but I also want to make castings for possible future use. I mainly want one for the narrowness on the ‘32. Accuracy to the 1:1 world isn’t completely necessary for myself. Maybe I’ll fiddle with modifying it or even scratch building one??

Hmmm! Is there a currently available kit that has a better one? It looks like there are some other good parts in this kit too, so I think I’ll snag it anyways. Edit: I found some threads here that should help. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/168387-quick-change/

Thanks Bill.? I was pretty sure it did, but wanted to be sure. Just curious, are all the gussets out onto the axle tubes representative of a particular real one? I’ll likely need to file them off anyways.

Does this kit have one, and how good is it?

Known issues with certain kits may or may not discourage you from buying them.

Wow, those decals laid down beautifully! All round nice work!?

That is smooooth looking Steve! That definitely solves the problem of roof warpage and the lack of mounting points. Nice work!? Most of that stuff on the rad support doesn’t belong on a stock truck….perhaps it was a race truck in an earlier version? Hard to find a good pic, but here’s a screenshot I managed to capture. None of that is seen though unless you open up the grill.

At least you didn’t get deodorant all over your model.?

Superior is one of the Great Lakes that forms part of the border between our two Great Nations.

How many mile-lbs of torque?

Nice looking truck.?

Looking mighty fine Bob!?

Nice! That should give her a little more get up and go than the six banger.?

I was sure tempted to do that with the Skip’s ‘55 chevy I was working on.? Channeling is basically raising the floor and dropping the body down over the frame in order to get a lower stance. It seems pretty simple, but this is my first attempt at it so I hope I don’t run into issues.

Decided to channel it slightly while I’m at it.