Usually, if I return something that I have opened, they will have a peek inside right then and there to see if it looks ok. If I buy an open box item, I’ll check it before leaving the store….usually.?
Thanks Guys. I am wanting to do the roof and back half of a ‘55 chevy in a gunmetal grey, which is slightly metallic. However, the maroon/red that I want to use on the front half is a solid color. The colors are divided by chrome trim so I guess I’ll give it a go and see how it looks.
On a two tone paint job, has anyone used a metallic for one colour, and a solid for the other? Just wondering if it would look OK, or would it be better to use a pearl clear over the solid so they sort of match? Opinions? Thanks!
I know their LP-19 and LP-20 gunmetals are metallic, and I don’t think the final coat can be sanded on a metallic? That said, as far as I can tell, yours looks fine from here Bob. ?
Nice job printing that! I used a copy of the frame from the Revell Jeep Honcho kit. Mine is a resin casting that I made and is a shorter than stock wheelbase though. I look forward to your progress. FYI: That printing is a 1954 or later cab. The large rear window and 3 bar grill were introduced in ‘54 or ‘55, and those rounded front fenders appeared in 1950 IIRC.
http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/166153-my-willys-pickup/
I am working on my first model with opening doors. Thanks to this thread I’ve pretty much got the hinges configured. I want to install 3mm magnets to keep the door closed. In order to drill a hole in the door jamb for the magnet, I used a PC board drill by hand to put in a pilot hole. Then I made this “shorty” pin vise from a really crappy one that I had no use for. I also had to cut down the drill bit so it was short enough to fit in the door opening.