NOBLNG

He should at least have all of his tools and equipment confiscated, and be banned from working on vehicles for life.?

Lots of pics on google. I just typed in big rig dual fenders and clicked on images.

You’re welcome. Anything you want to search on here... go to google and type in “site:modelcarsmag.com __________” and you will get results.

https://www.google.ca/search?client=safari&channel=ipad_bm&source=hp&ei=v1QwYKy2FefV5gL73Y9g&iflsig=AINFCbYAAAAAYDBiz6UOg0ISxbiiCmRElJcH0jyEnClg&q=site%3Amodelcarsmag.com+pro+mod+chassis&oq=site%3Amodelcarsmag.com+pro+mod+chassis&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAM6CAgAEOoCEI8BOg4ILhCxAxDHARCjAhCTAjoLCC4QsQMQxwEQowI6CAgAELEDEIMBOgUIABCxAzoOCC4QsQMQgwEQxwEQowI6CAguELEDEIMBOgIILjoFCC4QsQM6AggAOgoIABCxAxCDARAKUI8eWOq0AWD6vwFoAXAAeACAAX6IAfodkgEFMTYuMjGYAQCgAQGqAQdnd3Mtd2l6sAEK&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwjskZPJl_fuAhXnqlkKHfvuAwwQ4dUDCAw&uact=5

Well I think it’s looking fabulous! Great job on the paint and the foiling. The shape and proportions on the whole thing looks nice too.

I have gotten some from Scenes Unlimited. They have a nice selection with dimensions listed on their site.

Wow, what scale is that?

Nice to see you rescuing this one. My Dad had a ‘61 and a ‘63? both 4 doors. And he had a ‘68 Biscayne 4 door that I took my drivers test in back in ‘77.?

Well I finally got this one up on wheels. I wound up building differentials and springs from scratch. I found a really good tutorial on building leaf springs that Art Anderson put on here years ago. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/52798-leaf-springs/ Anyway, now that I have a baseline, I can tweak the mounting point locations a bit to level things up. I also need to shape or re-design them to make them more realistic. The differentials are not glued to the axle tubes yet and can be rotated to set the pinion angles once the drivetrain is in place. The front axle will likely be narrowed a bit yet. The stock trucks had quite a difference between front and rear track width.

I posted this as a daily accomplishment, but I figure more folks would see it here. I want to do a few custom 4x4 builds in the future so I came up with this idea to minimize duplicating my efforts. I’ve modified the Mobius F100 center sections (Dana 44 and Ford 9”) to take a 3/16” aluminum tube. This is 4” in 1/25 scale or 3-3/4” in 1/24th, which I think is not too far off. I hate all the spindly little axles found in most kits! I also built a GM 14-bolt from scratch. I then made a mold so that I can cast the center section around the piece of tubing after temporarily plugging it with modeling clay to keep the resin out. A piece of .156 styrene tube will slide inside this and a piece of 3/32” rod (I use a coat hanger) for an axle. The diff can be left unglued until the rest of the drivetrain is in place to set the pinion angle. The F100 knuckles will be added to the front tube after being drilled for the metal axle.

Nice looking frame! What size styrene did you use? Should be a killer build.

I went to a local Hobby shop and picked up some aluminum tube that I use to make differentials. Then I went to another local HS and picked up some brass rod to use for pins. I am tired of searching through junk to find nails or wire to use! I didn’t make it to the third local HS that I buy most of my stuff from. I try to buy as much as I can locally so they will stay in business, even if I pay a bit more. I picked up this razor saw at Michaels...it was marked down to $5.00 from $15.00. It has finer teeth than the Exacto I have and cuts real nice.

Way to make use of those parts Tom.? That color is so ugly that I like it.??

Really nice job on this cool looking vehicle!?

Really nice clean job on this. I really like these little trucks. I have the stocker that I plan on building at some point. I hope you post the build of your Grampa’s Bronco.?

Nice job building and detailing that engine bay!

I cast the first set of rearends today. Two of them didn’t have enough resin and wound up with a small recess that was easily plugged with CA and talc. The Dana 44 and Ford 9 inch are modified Mobius F-100 center sections. The GM 14 bolt I built from scratch. The knuckles turned out nice too. I had some space left when I made the mold, so I threw in a couple of steering wheels.?

For a hole in a hood I would drill a hole in each corner to get a radius then connect them by either drilling a series of holes and then filing the inside edge smooth. Or I would connect them with a razor saw. These photo etch saws require a very light touch, but make a very thin cut.

This is what I use too. There are two things you can do to keep the teeth from snagging on the thin tubing. First, you can draw the saw backwards...it will still cut the soft aluminum. Two, you can put a piece of solid styrene rod that fits nicely inside the aluminum and cut through both.

Maybe it belongs to this guy. That’s what I was thinking...it looks better going than coming.

What is that first red one from the left? It looks like a crew cab. Any kits or resin castings of it?

These are my most used glues. The Tamiya for all tight fitting styrene to styrene joints. The canopy glue for windows if they fit well (epoxy if they don’t). I use the CA thick or epoxy for joints with gaps or any joints that are not styrene to styrene. CA for mirrors or fiddly parts that need an instant bond to stay put.

That is looking awesome! Love the colour too.

In my ‘68 charger thread...GMP 440 related how he makes side marker lights. The same method could be used to make the Buick portholes. Quote: “What I did when I wanted to make round marker lights for the AMT 68 Roadrunner kit; I used light duty aluminum foil, placed a piece over the marker light on my MPC 68 Coronet. Pressed it down to make the impression of the marker light. Filled the backside with a mixture of superglue and baking soda. Now you made a casting of the marker light. The foil sticks to it so all you have to do is just trim off the excess on the sides and your done.”