NOBLNG

I went to a local Hobby shop and picked up some aluminum tube that I use to make differentials. Then I went to another local HS and picked up some brass rod to use for pins. I am tired of searching through junk to find nails or wire to use! I didn’t make it to the third local HS that I buy most of my stuff from. I try to buy as much as I can locally so they will stay in business, even if I pay a bit more. I picked up this razor saw at Michaels...it was marked down to $5.00 from $15.00. It has finer teeth than the Exacto I have and cuts real nice.

Way to make use of those parts Tom.? That color is so ugly that I like it.??

Really nice job on this cool looking vehicle!?

Really nice clean job on this. I really like these little trucks. I have the stocker that I plan on building at some point. I hope you post the build of your Grampa’s Bronco.?

Nice job building and detailing that engine bay!

I cast the first set of rearends today. Two of them didn’t have enough resin and wound up with a small recess that was easily plugged with CA and talc. The Dana 44 and Ford 9 inch are modified Mobius F-100 center sections. The GM 14 bolt I built from scratch. The knuckles turned out nice too. I had some space left when I made the mold, so I threw in a couple of steering wheels.?

For a hole in a hood I would drill a hole in each corner to get a radius then connect them by either drilling a series of holes and then filing the inside edge smooth. Or I would connect them with a razor saw. These photo etch saws require a very light touch, but make a very thin cut.

This is what I use too. There are two things you can do to keep the teeth from snagging on the thin tubing. First, you can draw the saw backwards...it will still cut the soft aluminum. Two, you can put a piece of solid styrene rod that fits nicely inside the aluminum and cut through both.

Maybe it belongs to this guy. That’s what I was thinking...it looks better going than coming.

What is that first red one from the left? It looks like a crew cab. Any kits or resin castings of it?

These are my most used glues. The Tamiya for all tight fitting styrene to styrene joints. The canopy glue for windows if they fit well (epoxy if they don’t). I use the CA thick or epoxy for joints with gaps or any joints that are not styrene to styrene. CA for mirrors or fiddly parts that need an instant bond to stay put.

That is looking awesome! Love the colour too.

In my ‘68 charger thread...GMP 440 related how he makes side marker lights. The same method could be used to make the Buick portholes. Quote: “What I did when I wanted to make round marker lights for the AMT 68 Roadrunner kit; I used light duty aluminum foil, placed a piece over the marker light on my MPC 68 Coronet. Pressed it down to make the impression of the marker light. Filled the backside with a mixture of superglue and baking soda. Now you made a casting of the marker light. The foil sticks to it so all you have to do is just trim off the excess on the sides and your done.”

They most likely meant “circa 1964” judging from the vehicle in the background.

I finished mocking up these differentials that I am going to cast. My plan is to make a two piece mold that I can drop a piece of aluminum tube into (plugged with modelling clay) and cast the diff around it. The aluminum tube will be trimmed back to a minimum width after casting. I can then slide a piece of .156 styrene tube inside the aluminum tube to make any width axle housing I need. I can also slide a piece of wire coat hanger inside the the styrene tube for a solid axle shaft. For a front end the knuckles will mount on the outer ends of the .156 tube. Just trying to minimize my efforts on future projects.?

Beautiful detail work on that engine!

Fabulous job on this one! It looks like this old workhorse has led a pretty pampered life.? From looking at your build thread, that printer can do some amazing stuff! I wish I had the technical savvy to operate one.?

I stand corrected on the Dodge outputs (never owned a Dodge). I know the 1980 Blazer that I mounted my Willys body on came with a 205. I later bought a 203 and with a kit from Off Road Design added the range box from the 203 in front of my 205...giving me an all-gear driven (no chain) cast Iron (heavy and indestructible) transfer case with a 2:1 low and an almost 4:1 low range.

Looking good Steve! I really like these earlier trucks.?

Outstanding work You are doing on this. It is totally realistic looking.???

These are nice looking cars, I may have to look for one. Why the cut lines? Are you making it into a convertible?

I have this kit and for some reason I thought it had a big block! Oh well, I’m looking forward to seeing this one come together.?

Thanks...Yes, it did actually. It tends to “frame” the engine better, and it doesn’t overshadow the chrome suspension in my opinion.

Thanks again To everyone for the appreciation and nice comments.

This is the first multi piece body I have come across, and was my only attempt at building one. I can see why people like it because it does build up very nicely! Waaay better than the AMT I did at the same time.