Dave G.

This is the actual original chevy tone or shade of blue ( supposedly). But I recall rebuilding those engines and it seemed a bit darker than that in my memory banks, course that was what, 50+ years ago sheesh lol.

As to question 3, Future/Pledge and Tamiya acrylic have not yellowed for me as yet and I've been testing them for about 4 years. I also use Liquitex varnishes that have not yellowed and are UV stable besides. We've had my now deceased wife's ceramics out in the weather 24/7 for years and has not deteriorated or yellowed. I use that in my modeling as well. All these should go right over enamel as long as the enamel is well cured so you don't get opposing shrink rates as the paints snuggle in. I think that Rustoleum protective enamel has a bit slower cure time than 2x. I haven't used it in years but that was the case years ago, maybe it's changed now though. And I would think the 2x clear would go over it but I can't answer if it yellows or not.

Hah,I just watched the same video yesterday and now you post it.

Plenty of people use them including ones you see often in the painting how to videos at youtube. Often you can notice in those videos that the painter has one of those booths in use, including the now aging but still almost infamous Dr. Cranky videos.

If you keep soaking in LT for two or three days eventually you will run into a plastic where more than the paint goes away lol !

Nice Ford !! But it does get simpler than that, use gloss and skip the clear coat.

Well I used X-1 black on those 1/16 Model A fenders and they turned out fine with no clear coat. I did a 39 Ford sedan in a build off with another member, part of the criteria he set was the color coat had to be craft paint. I cleared that with X-22, minor sanding for polishing the rest was polishing compound, it polished up real nice to my eye so it became a keeper finish for me after that. I'm pretty sure you will like the results on yours.

Like Pete or similarly at least, I run dehydration between 105 and 110. 122 is getting up there, might be fine with enamel and the metal parts. It's not the heat alone that dries or cures the paint but the added air movement, especially with acrylics.

I don't know if the dehydrator you're getting has temp control but I set mine around 108f with straight Tamiya acrylics.. Just FWIW. It may not matter so much but over 105 up to 108 is what I do with acrylics and 108-110 for enamels.. You may even want to go with 105f with your multi combo paints on there, it will still dry.

I believe you will find that the X-20A has some retarder in it. Lacquer thinner dries faster, the colors on color coats are still very vivid ( very clear color no haze if that makes sense). LT won't work in all acrylics but it is suggested by Tamiya for their acrylics ( at their web site), they claim a harder finish. As to DNA, the paint flows like crazy when mixed 1/1 or more thinner. I like it especially in X-1 black as it gives a very natural factory looking black finish that just needs a light buffing to clear the color up a bit ( just offers some extra user control to get that finish we expect to see on a classic car for instance). With DNA it dries super smooth, the smoothest of all the thinners in X-1 black that I've tried. The buffing is just to pull up the gloss slightly. I'd still prefer Model Master Classic black that was made for this job but well, it's not around anymore so we move on right ? Make a way.

You talk about obscure I'm only desiring a 34-38 Buick sedan kit someplace near stock. And a stock 1956 Buick hardtop kit. Nobody comes close the either one, ever.

I don't have a straight answer on air dry times because I always do a 30 minute blast in the dehydrator to jump start the dry, which to me if anything increases gloss ( at least on color coats anyway). Also I tend to use either lacquer thinner or DNA to thin with Tamiya acrylics with to include X-22. I can generally polish by the third day. It should eventually harden though but I haven't experienced your situation personally. I do very little sanding for polishing, go to Colgate toothpaste, then Formula 1 Scratch out. I'm happy with the finish for the era cars I build is best I can say. Maybe be glad its taking it's time with that combo of paints and decals under it, perhaps less chance of something wrinkling on you.

OK. And yes 1/24.

Are you addressing the OP or my post above ?

Is there a more stock appearing version of that 38 Claude ? It looks like there are two to three iterations of it ? You did a great job on that ! I'd be inclined to put a wash on that grill though to shadow the recesses ( can still be done on a finished model)..

Tuckers are good/cool and all that but my cry is for Buicks 1932 or 34 -1957 ! Moebius does Hudsons and Chryslers, this resin company Tucker but you never hear about Buicks. I once emailed about 3 years ago asked Moebius if they ever intended to do a 1956 Buick or any Buick for that matter. No reply. So guess not.

Pete I do more testing than I do spraying models lol ! That's why I said I don't know the make up "yet". If I want to try 2x clear I will figure it out and compatibility. But with 2x colors and considering most of my builds are antique or classic era cars with solid colors and pastels etc., the 2x line of colors has found it's way into my work flow and like Model Master rarely need clear coat in that category I most often build in. Knowing me. I'll do several experiments over various base coats sprayed on my stashes of empty prescription bottles. Clears for me most often are used over flat acrylic paints and craft paints as the base color coats, I have several clear coats that already work well, so I'm not really looking for a magic bullet clear anyway.

While I haven't used the clear yet I do prefer to decant 2x and spray it with my Paasche H. Comes out awesome for me, 2 tones or whatever. While I've shot it from the can the coats are thick for my taste. One coat will basically do it as long as you got everything. 2x through the airbrush shoots pretty much the same as Testors Model Master through the airbrush ( I do add a touch more thinner than what is in the can). I don't know the makeup of 2x clear. Yet. Or what can and can't be done with it. In another thread, might have been another sight even, a guy used it supposedly over enamel and it all wrinkled as if the 2x clear was lacquer.

Who knows if it made it or not but I grew up in that era a car nut and somehow seemed to have missed this iteration of 352. Fairly impressive specs too.

Ya I'm just surprised because I know what it took to get my 390's I raced to 375-400hp. Course the interceptor was a legend back then but I never really knew the stats.

I didn't even know a naturally aspirated 352 could make 360 HP ,never mind when it's made from styrene. !

Tamiya X-22 should go over all that and it buffs up well. If not then Liquitex varnish will.

That's funny !

There's no working 1/1 race car in the world with a finish like that. Too much.

Back when dinosaurs were roaming the earth I put one of those together. They didn't have good clear parts glue that I knew of back then so probably epoxy was the recommended glue. Even at that back then most epoxies yellowed in relatively short time. But today I'd just use what I use on all my clear parts, Testors clear parts glue. Simple one step solution, holds well, dries clear.