Mike Williams

Wonderful update, Francis. The aluminum/brass contrasts make for quite an eyeful. I especially like the front cover, this should make a nice optical reference when viewing the completed motor. Also, the brass freeze plugs are a killer, I'm doing the same with a blue Hemi motor in the works. It's always a pleasure to view the progress with this project! Mike..

Wonderful post, interesting and factual. Being a golf friend since my youth, if I were to actually play my official, US handicap on those old British links courses, it would be surely the best round I've ever played by far. I do believe, it would be nearly impossible. I'd be thrilled there to break 100. Mike..

Compliments also, the quality of the photos! Excellent presentation, we can all learn form this technique. Mike..

@Francis, yes the design is in my opinion sensational. I've never seen this type before. The major part is a usual transverse behind the axle leaf spring setup. On the bench now though is part 2 of this suspension setup., then attaching all of this will make for an eyeful I'm sure. Yes, I was smiling with this unit...more coming up soon. @Ian, thanks for looking. I'm really enthused with this whole project. As the photos show, clearly all of the areas can be reproduced, I feel lucky to have a willing owner to show all phases and areas of this iconic race car. This area is in the works now, photo by Scott Snizek, real car;

Superb workmanship, Francis. Wonderful. What type of shop do you order the bits from, online? Perhaps a local supplier? I need to refurbish my bits for drilling holes, 1mm is the usual starting point. All of mine have become dull and need replacement. Mike..

Many thanks fellows for looking. This is indeed a fun project. The detailed, real car photos leave no questions open, it's all there to see. UPDATE: Front axle assembly, part 1. Radius rod and leaf spring brackets, kingpin and spindles. In scale. First 2 photos are of the real car build, by Scott Snizek. I've set the kingpin angle, not at 8° but rather at zero. So many complications, not worth the effort, my opinion. Done that before, makes no difference for the finished model, only multiplies problems with the build. Better at 0°. On the bench now is the single, transverse leaf spring and other elements. Lots to do here. Mike..

Sensational work, Ian. Super clean and clear photos as well. The tucked seat....killer. Mike..

This is really sensational work here. I admire your bodywork in styrene. Do I understand this correctly, after the chop, the roof has a section added so the A pillar meets properly? Makes sense. I like this. Mike..

Small update today....I do believe the cockpit and rearend are finished. Can't really see anything else to do here, except paint, later though. Today a headrest was added, a driveshaft tunnel attached with a coupler and the ride height was set. Here a mockup of things done to date. First photo from Scott Snizek, as the car was being built. Next on the agenda is the front axle assembly. This will be the most intricate and stunning hot rod setup I've ever seen, yet another segment that makes this real car absolutely iconic. Can't wait to tackle this one....! Mike..

@Rocking Rodney Rat, this is a really fun project. Every single area is well documented with excellent photos....just following the lead.... @Francis, yes, copper is great for our brass cars, especially being it's much stronger, small parts are more easily handled. Heat transfer seems identical to brass. The chassis will be sanded smooth as if it were a body panel, the smooth rear end will get a silver/gray glossy finish, all with House of Kolor paints. Below is a photo by Scott Snizek, original car. Great that you remembered the front wire wheel tutorial for FEDs, copper pipe is a hit! Mike..

Meantime, a few things have been added. For kicks, the seat tilts. Driver can reach down for a cool one while waiting in the pits. Some upholstery too, headrest coming up. The Revell styrene rear axle at hand doesn't look too good, so a complete Chrysler 8.75 axle was fabbed. Copper plumbing pipe for the housing, rest is from brass profiles and sheet. The driveline is established, driveshaft is straight as an arrow, through the crankshaft line, so this is an important step accomplished. A few small things, plus the driveshaft housing will be added soon. Currently sorting out plans for the front axle assembly, which is really trick. haven't seen one exactly like this one ever. 1st photo by Steve Snizek, taken during the new build. Since these, the driveshaft tunnel is in the works, will be added soon. Mike..

UPDATE: The chassis brass works are done for now. Last thing to be added are motor mounts, motor is on the way, a printed, beautiful and exact 392 w/scripted valve covers and Hilborn 4 port injection w/hat. A new parts source for all scales is on the scene, utterly smooth parts! Your Alclad will let parts look chromed! Exciting news for the modeling world. Added are the toe strap on go pedal, chassis footrests (to protect the aluminum sheet body tub) and cross bracing for pushbar. Also, fuel and magneto shutoff applications, along with a chute release handle w/ locking nut. Chute release and brake handle move, go pedal and clutch as well. more on this later. A major change was successful. The firewall tubing was too square, so the bars are now more rounded as per plan and the shoulder bars attach to the rollbar now at a proper angle, this was bothering me from the beginning on, it has to be correct. A replica can't have atrocities visible, won't work. Here the new firewall bar(s) comparison; A few additions; Next up are softer things, seat upholstery and a steering wheel. Mike..

@Ian, hello friend. The full bodied FED finished last month offered lots of training and several things to adhere by, learned a lot with that one. I feel the brass bodied Ford T is very doable now. I'll update. @CT, you are always great for a laugh and also the insight you add. Many thanks, it's great for modelers to have real car guys taking a peek, I'm always grateful for your input. Yes, ole Henry would've had fits with this armored tub, actually I was also wondering. From my limited experience, just not sure which gauge brass sheet to use, too thin and my thumbs presses dents in, that's my biggest worry. The sheet will be adapted with thumbs and clamped and tacked. The body bracing HAS to be stable, hence the thought of later adding thin aluminum sheet to cover the armoring. I'm liking this project very much. @Ray the cobraman, thanks for looking and commenting. We're all modelers here and I like the hands on deal with brass, just a different way to do your own thing. My styrene abilities are not very good, been a metal worker of sorts all of my working days, I'm happier with a blister on the fingertip as the other ones glued together with CA....lol Mike..

Further along now with the chassis, things are going well. The real car in progress photos sent to me are sensational and really help getting things done correctly. Basic chassis; Here a few shots with body tub first fit; Tire check, the wheels will not be used; Things are where they're supposed to be.... Mike..

@Marcos, glad you like it, you and I just like to build tube chassis cars. This will be no different. @Francis, Yes I believe the car is a beauty and I'm excited about building this one. I have a fellow working on the decals at this very moment, very professional work. This should be a fun project. More completed already, photos soon. Mike..

This iconic racer has always been a stunner. I saw it first (probably) in the SS&DI mag about 1964. The trademark molded chute pack area, the white custom paint and gold lettering, along with the molded lower body panels make it still unique, in my opinion. A show car that actually raced and succeeded. I contacted Mr. Scott Snizek, now the 2nd generation driver/owner about his family's car, stating that I would like to model it in brass, and if he could offer me a few photos showing details that have not been published. Closeup build photos. Meantime, I have the plans plus several dozen digital photos showing the reincarnation of the original car that ran from 1963 to 1970. Nothing left to question, it's all there. Here a photo by Scott Snizek of the "clone" car, built following original plans and what was used back in the day; First though the body tub, '23 Ford T "turtle deck", made from original measurements; I need the strengthened sides and rounded rear flange to support the shaping of the brass body panels. The tub interior will probably be lined with aluminum sheet, not a subject at this time. As always, thanks for looking and commenting. More coming... Mike..

Beautiful brass works going on here, Ian! Mike..

Just wonderful, Francis. Smiling, Mike..

Steven, I've been admiring your expertise for years and do believe your models are among the very best to be viewed. I do think you can do better, concerning the pulleys and belts on the motor. Also, in my opinion, the fan blade thickness sticks out like a sore thumb, in comparison to the nicely detailed carb work. If I remember correctly, the street Hemis had aluminum fan blades. The belts seem to be comparatively thick and out of scale, disturbing the overall view. Maybe file the fan blades down to thin edges to maintain the pure styrene model. With so much attention to detailing carbs, why not go a step further.....

This car is new, finished last week. Scale 178" WB, chassis is a replica built from original plans. Revell FC 426 motor with a few changes, front wheels wire laced, rear wheels/tires vintage Revell FC. Paint is House of Kolors Brandywine over pale silver base. Thanks for looking/commenting, Mike..

@Niko, many thanks for the compliments. The front end is a favorite area of modelling for me, the intricate linkage does look nice when the car sits on the shelf. @Jim Owen, your approval is greatly appreciated, thank you. @Trevor, "stunningly brutal", what a wonderful phrase! I do think it fits, these cars are just that. Yes, the wheels are laced. Brass rims this time with silver coated copper wire, ultra thin. 40 spokes each wheel. Alclad chrome paint. The tires are from a Revell kit, as are the rears. Thank guys, Mike..

@Nitrobarry, I felt the same way, Barry. Just build a simple design of a classic dragster, no electronics anywhere, just show power without frills. I feel the car has perfect dimensions, not stretched too long yet long enough to handle better than the older shorties. The motor dump, right up against the slicks does it for me. Thank you. @CT, you found it! I had to play around with photographing so long to get it right. not an easy task as my old lightbox doesn't handle 1:16 cars very well. I agree, the intricate and frail front axle sets the car off. I love this old simple design, and as you stated a while back, you could easily envision the car staging at Lions, way back when. Thank you again for your time and support. PS: The other brass FED, the long car is also finished....coming up soon, right here! Thanks guys, Mike..

Here a scale 150" Woody Gilmore dragster from earlier this year. CompResins 417 kit with a few changes. House of Kolors Candy Apple Red over gold base. Mike..

Exquisite work, this is sensational progress. Mike..

Very well done Marcos, a wonderful replica. I remember that kit was nothing but a problem, but it sure came out nice! Mike..