Mike Williams

@Francis, many thanks and your interest is greatly appreciated. This lacing process is an ongoing attempt as there have been areas and mistakes that need attention. This is the reason for not fabricating another 2 wheels for the longer car yet. Trouble being after each rim is laced and soldered, the alignment of both together has proved to be faulty. The single rims fit wonderfully into the outer rim without wire, like a piston in a cylinder. When 40 wires are soldered on, the 2 halves don't connect or align in a decent manner. They just don't slide in but need trimming to let both rims fit inside the outer rim. This is why there is such a void from inner to outer rim. The voids will be filled before painting.....just this is an area that bothers me at this point. This has to be better. I've decided to use Alclad 2 for the future. PROBLEM: I can't find any Alclad2 Black Base Coat in the EU....that is without paying exorbitant prices for postage. $25 shipping for a paint that costs $7 is a scheme that I won't follow. @Ian, hey guy! Great to see you here, and again, many thanks for your approval. I'll check out your ongoing projects and topics, surely a view worth following. Gotta laugh again....."Winkelmesser" lol. Mike..

UPDATE: Today the first laced front wheel was soldered up. One down, one to go for the shorter car. These are laced 40 spoke wheels, using silver coated copper wire (0.25mm) and brass rims from brass sheet in 0.5mm and inner rims with 1mm brass sheet. Unfortunately at a decisive time a clamp slipped somewhat and bent 2 wires at the outer rim. I'll try and sever and reattach with CA. I won't abandon the wheel for this slight mistake. Here you can see the goof at about 2 o'clock; Here the 2 inner rims where the spokes are soldered on, the outer rim and the tire used; The other laced wheel up next. A gap here and there will be filled with the CA, Zap-a-Gap, then painted chrome. Mike..

Thank you Glen, I'm enjoying letting this one come together. Mike..

Nice looking project. Gotta love the '33 Willys, but dislike the kits let it sit so high off the ground. I suppose AMT was only interested in doing one version of this body style. Still, a killer car. I wanted mine down low in the weeds, resulting in having to chop off the entire front, and to back-halve the rear as well. A wonderful car for a great project like you are doing. Mike..

Just a word here to @Force...! You've offered over the years so many beautiful photos and reference advice, for my own projects too. I'd just like to give you a big shout! Thank you very much. Again here with this beautiful highboy project..just amazing you come across again. Thank you. You truly offer the forum a great service. Mike..

Paul, I agree! 100 pro. So many 41 Willys kits can be seen, no one puts it down in the weeds, so low and nasty looking! Fat tires in the fenders too. I love it, wish I had a 1:16 body, I'd do it as a next project. Mike..

Oh my! I do love the dashboard and instruments. So typical Mopar, also the Alternator gauge. Seen a lot of those in my day. Good too Francis, you added a lighter for the truck. These small extra things will add a few dollars to the resale value! Perhaps along with carpeting in the cab? Beware! Should you choose an electric bench seat, with toggle switches down on the sides of the bench....should these also work....I will not speak with you anymore. Only because this luxury was unavailable at the time for this pickup. We do want to keep things realistic, yes? Smiling now from ear to ear, a wonderful view here Francis! Mike..

@Brad, much appreciated friend, nice of you to stop by here. I agree, the car is looking mean and nasty, the plan was to go with a shorter wheelbase (150" was the real deal in 1965), with lots of motor tilt and moved back, this is the LOOK, my opinion. The tires are a bit too wide, not much to choose out there. If they were solid then I'd slice them, but Revell FC tires are so flimsy anyway....a problem. I've already seen the front axle mounted with wheels, the look is right and it kills me. Looking forward with this one! @Francis. Agreed, about posting a previous photo, my sympathies exactly. Occasionally I have to take a peek at what the finished car might appear to represent, with all the units mounted. Mercy! This car in my opinion will be nasty, I just love the dimensions! Thank you sincerely for your support. @Marcos. Very kind of you to drop in and comment. Your work and modeling is exceptional as I've seen your topics. Also, as a FB group buddy, our paths will surely cross again soon. Thank you sincerely. @CT, first of all your support and commenting is greatly appreciated! As I understand, this sized chassis was the last of its kind. The motor was moved more forward for better weight distribution, and the chassis lengthened to compliment the changes. Still, I wanted to build one of the older and aggressive cars, as I think even the styrene kits don't quite reach the way they looked. Shorter wheelbase, motor back to the slicks and tilted down low! I like. Mike..

Francis, I meant this, not the steering wheel; How would this unit be removed from the solid block? Concerning tach shift lights, Mopar big blocks and shifting....I thought this was the reason for making such good automatic trans with shifter kits! Suddenly, most didn't need to shift gears, but won anyway! Automatically. Laughing now. Mike..

Moving along now, the 150" chassis is finished. At this time I'm unaware of anything that needs soldering, so it's time to finally clean up a joint here and there and start sanding some areas and adding paint filler. The longer car is also finished, last thing to both was adding a chute release lever, done. Closeup interior, all pedals and brake pull handle are in. The brake lever slides back and forth with a rod to the brake cylinder, the lever has to move or else the rear axle won't slide in later on. Here a scale 150" chassis; So, some touch ups with the metal on the chassis....then I'll tackle the front rims. Wire laced, 40 spoke wheels. Oh yeah! Mike..

Love it! Wonderful theme and I do believe you're on the right track. Do you plan a similar finish for the wheels? Hope so, I'd love to see some tips. Mike..

Oh. My. Goodness! Look at this pickup. Tim, my very favorite hotrod alongside a '32, '33 and '34 Ford would be pickup from the 40s. These make utterly great rides, truly sensational in my book. I'm sure you've noticed on the HAMB just how great these can be. Does it run? I love it, just the way it is too. Compliments. Mike..

Francis, I was thrilled finding that coat hanger wire was not only the perfect scale for 1:16, but also soldered nicely. Fun indeed. CT, thank you. Luckily a fellow sent me a blueprint with proper measurements, shown here is perfect scale with the highly polished brass, yet unpainted. The axle itself is polished steel coil wire, aka "piano wire". Magic Photos, the plans are out there, at least partially. You could also ask on a particular FB group for these, someone might offer insight. You could use a readily available sketch of a Woody Gilmore chassis available online, and useful were photos of one or more of his original chassis being sold. The correct tube sizes for 1:16 I could offer you on this thread if interested. I've seen your name on specific FB groups, hence the mention above. Also, I have the real plans from a restored dragster expert, but I'm keeping these to myself as promised to him. This goes for both cars shown here. Mike..

I like the results, beautifully accomplished. Francis, QUESTION; how do you remove the steering block cleanly from the solid block of aluminum? I understand the cuts you made and how these are done. From a solid block though, how is the milled unit removed? Mike..

Jim U, I like what you're doing with the Willys '37 front end, a great new approach. Suspension seems correct too, looking just fine! QUESTION please; how did you do the gray-looking finish on the rear wheels of the Willys? They look a lot like this type of finish, just I haven't a clue on how-to. I'm looking for a dark and unpolished Halibrand magnesium wheel finish....like this; Your wheel appears to be the right direction....thanks.

Meantime, the shorter car has a clutch and go-pedal, a wheelie wheel out back and the bottom seat part and brace. Also a couple of small chassis mistakes corrected. Also, an aluminum support at the axle housing for the steering rod. Radius rods and front axle are finished. A chute release lever and a brake cylinder with pull handle.....then the chassis gets paint. Here a few details with the long car. This time I liked the idea of a brass clutch can in an anodized look, I kind of like it. A few motor details worked out, this 426 Revell FC motor will have a different front cover and idler pulley setup, the kit has a single part for all of this. A change might work out.... Perhaps interesting here...the silver chassis rod. I needed 2.25mm for correct scale. Just so happens a coat hanger works, solders up nicely to brass also! More later, Mike..

@Dueces II, great to see you here as well! Thanks for the approval. @Francis, an auction won for such a soldering piece! You did well. I do believe the difference being the resistance soldering unit allows for a more precise solder flow, so the joints don't get too cluttered. A fine luxury. I'll have to write, since retirement, I have 100s of carbide burs and diamond points in all imaginable sizes, from super micro (0.3mm) to 4mm for rough cutting and reduction, so reducing the solder joint is not a problem. Actually throughout the entire build and just before painting, I'm still hacking away at the solder joints and smoothing them out. The units in Europe are well over $500 meantime....but an auction at a fraction of the price? YES, I would JUMP at the chance. Mike..

@Brad, great to see you here again and thanks for your support. I'm nuts too about simple race cars, FEDS and Altereds forever! @Kurt, I'm happy you took notice as lots of times simplicity is a great move forward. @Francis, hello, great to see you've noticed these cars. I'd started the longer car but got bogged down with small details that took forever to get right along with the fact the real owner was changing his thoughts around so often I got tired of the nonsense. The shorter car is no particular car just the design is original blueprints, it's all there. My friend Tim Slesak posted his wonderful creations so this reminded me i could offer something new to the forum. Both cars will be built further. @Tim, great to see you here as well. Your cars are always a pleasure to view. The magnets on a steel plate are great. I'll add a few photos of a car completed last year. Using small rectangular rare earth magnets (very strong, they will not move easily) I was able to make each side identical, as the rods and tubes just fell into the same position after they were cut to proper length. As you've done with a current project, the original blueprints were just scaled to size using the usual printer software..a breeze. I agree, a torch is not worth the effort, low fusing solder is used so a cheapo electric iron will do just fine. I considered years ago going the resistance soldering method but thought the high cost was not worth the investment. An analog soldering station with a very flexible cord is all I use, cost me maybe $60, low medium and high temp settings with changeable tips. Here showing the magnets holding the brass profiles, same for both sides... Soldering station, the green box front right is the micro motor handpiece. More later on, Mike..

@CT, yes I agree. Simplicity of design. Form and function. These are fun to build. @RRR, indeed, brass building is interesting and also very satisfying, a real hands on treat to build these. @alan barton, thank you, great to read that you've started with brass. Rail chassis building is not difficult, especially since you've gathered experience. Finding a decent blueprint is half the battle, then you're on your way. @89AKurt, the rack looks perfectly square, you did it. I'd suggest a steel plate about the size of printer paper and an array of small magnets to hold things in place. Also, I print out a simple Excel sheet grid to allow for straight lines and right angles, very simple way to go forward. I don't use any special jig. Modeling clay comes in handy too. Basic setup, steel plate, paper taped on and small magnets.... Thanks for looking guys, Mike..

@Tom Geiger, good one! In Europe, the "poor folks kitchen" in all countries, have amazing old recipes. Still today, the best food comes from bashing together what you have. Basically, raid the fridge and add what's grown in your immediate area, or what you grow yourself. I like the Italian version of the poor folk's kitchen.....simply sensational!

New year, so I thought a couple from the bench might be interesting to view. A 175" version of a restored SPE chassis from 1966 along with a Woody Gilmore 150" from 1965. The longer car has a 426 motor and the 150 car has a 392, both modified. The cars are a correct 1:16 scale. Front ends are done, only a few levers for the cockpits, chute release and such, then paint. The plan is for the longer car to be without a body, but with all the trimmings for a FED. The shorter car will have a brass body with a simple linear paint job. But what good are plans later on? Who knows.... More later on... Mike..

CT, it was decided early on to have enigmatic scripting on coins and paper bills so that hardly anyone would pay attention or understand. This was a form of globalism. Now though, we don't want this. Too expensive to change now....so, the saved money goes into the pockets of the lawmakers. It seems as if this has become quite popular. But we still don't understand why. None of us understand either how Francis makes these parts....I have thin aluminum to make a ring with a clamp also, but the metal will bend if I get too close after having some garlic enhanced food for lunch....again, how does he do it? Mike..

What a topic! Great car, the Fuel Altered Coupes were out of this world...so nasty. The project is going well. I like.

Francis, smiling here. Just wonderful. Mike..

Claude, a possibility, Francis has invented a new system? How else could anyone do this work? Mike..