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Ian McLaren

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Everything posted by Ian McLaren

  1. Good question Daniel, I think I've become most comfortable with 1/16th, small enough to still fit on a shelf and big enough to detail with old eyes and fat fingers. The only reason I'm doing this in 1/12th is that I have owned the kit for decades, lots of decades, original release. Bought it in California on a trip to the Winternationals. Like you said this could be a never ending project and I have had to set a limit on the detail I'm including as I have other projects I want to build. That being said this is a fun project and thank you for the kind words. PS, I am blown away with your detailing of the dragster it's going to be such a great model.
  2. 1/12 scale LHP1320 BBC long block and 1050 Dominator carbs. Wilson style intake manifold with 2 added nitrous systems, fogger nozzels in the runners and a Viper Style stage in pleuium system (two solidoids on the front face). Starting to plumb the engine with nitrous and fuel lines, easy stuff done now it's the regulators and fuel blocks from the pump as shown in the photo of the real deal.
  3. Great work Andrew, your solution for the front suspension is an inspired approach, as are your adjustable ride height supports.
  4. Great job Marcos, these have to be one of the most difficult drag race vehicles to model and yours is going to be a stand out for sure!
  5. MVI_0196[1].MOV Second door just needs the gaps corrected. Now I have to figure out how to fabricate and support the two side windows and cut the access holes.
  6. Well I just bit the bullet and cut out the right door to allow more details to be displayed. I also added a 304 stainless top to my work bench to make cleanup easier.
  7. Thank you Bob, it's just about ready to start adding the details
  8. Looking great, nice outside the box thinking on the bellhousing, the new scheme looks very good!
  9. That looks pretty good to me as is, if I was to change anything I would wrap the cowl panel just a tiny bit more around the windscreen with a slightly sharper point, but that is really nit picking.
  10. Great job on the Lenco, it's hard to tell it from the real deal, well done!
  11. WOW John I'll take a complement like that any day, thank you so much, there is a lot of time and effort in this one, I just hope the balance of the build goes well.
  12. Big step today the chassis is in primer, not perfect but the repair are all minor.
  13. I had a couple of questions asked about what went into this panel, so to answer the questions here are the materials and the process Main body .200 x .300 Evergreen retangular tube (this is for 1/12th scale)grind off one of the narrow sides to give you a U channel, sand to required depth to fit chassis tube. Panel ends .125 square evergreen rod glue a short section at each end to cloes the ends of the panel. The switches are .030 for the handles ( a little over scale but look OK) and .080 dia x .040 hole photo etch washers. I used a brass L channel as a guide to drill the switch holes in a straight line, then paint the panel the color you want it, I chose Tamiya semi gloss black. Cut short but over length sections of the .030 rod and glue them in the holes don't worry how long they are as long as the shortest one is longer than you want the handles to be. Slide the washers over the handles ( I chose to do it before I installed the handle and used a drop of CA to secure both). At this point you can cut all of the handles to the desired lenght and carefully paint them with your favorite silver/chrome paint. The pilot lights are up to you, mine are from one of my wifes Diamond painting kits, but gems like these are available in most craft stores of model raillroad shop. Some are flat mount like these but most will require a mounting hole being drilled (very shallow) The yellow and red stripes are from a left over 1/72 scale aircraft weapons set. and the harness is just a piece of black wire that looked like the correct size.
  14. WOW Paul this is going to be awesome. Having a few Green Elephant kits sitting in the closet I'm really paying attention to how you are approaching the body on this one. Jeff built me a set of Halibrands for a previous project using those centers so I have seen your handy work in person, fantastic quality. I will definitely be following along on this one.
  15. Your work on the transmission is outstanding especially the netting, so precise. I just used some .030 evergreen rod for a switch panel and I agree with you on the shape. I wish someone here would step up and stock more Plastruct. Just one model railroad shop has any kind of significant selection.
  16. Working on detail parts, case in point upper switch panel over windshield 21 individual parts not counting the decals
  17. Yes I did but now live just on the outskirts
  18. Although I don't normally model these kinds of cars, they fascinate me, especially at venues like Laguna Seca or Pebble Beach. I can also appreciate the quality and effort you are putting into this model. You are doing a great job Andrew and I am following along and really enjoying this project. Well done!
  19. WOW it just keeps getting better and better Marcos, two thumbs way up!
  20. Great job on this one John, you are really capturing the essence of the real car, well done!
  21. This electronics box embodies the true essence of scratch building, precision, attention to detail, multiple materials and the willingness to redo it "till it's right ". Not to mention a step by step tutorial . Very inspiring.
  22. Starting to fit and properly align the four link. Judging from the pinion angle and how far out the slider on the wishbone is presently, all of the bars need to be shortened initially to establish the wheelbase, and the lower bars a bit more to dial in the pinion angle. That will also set the initial wheelie bar height at what would be a good starting point for a new car. All of the steel rods are parallel which also tells me the chassis brackets are alligned so there should be no suprises once the final bars are installed (these are scratch built from plasitc and 1/16th brass tubing). The final bars are stainless tube and RB Motion rod ends.
  23. Had to work all weekend so not much time for modeling, Back to the transmission to clean up and refine. Remove the paint from the transmission shield for a little bling, added the fittings for the cooler lines and modified the rear engine plate to allow the lines to be supported on the way forward to the cooler.the chassis is getting close to getting a coat of paint. The dash will now fit with the front upper door side bars in but needs to be refinished after the surgery. The electronics tray in the passanger foor area has also be started awaiting final fitting.
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