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Ian McLaren

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Everything posted by Ian McLaren

  1. This electronics box embodies the true essence of scratch building, precision, attention to detail, multiple materials and the willingness to redo it "till it's right ". Not to mention a step by step tutorial . Very inspiring.
  2. Starting to fit and properly align the four link. Judging from the pinion angle and how far out the slider on the wishbone is presently, all of the bars need to be shortened initially to establish the wheelbase, and the lower bars a bit more to dial in the pinion angle. That will also set the initial wheelie bar height at what would be a good starting point for a new car. All of the steel rods are parallel which also tells me the chassis brackets are alligned so there should be no suprises once the final bars are installed (these are scratch built from plasitc and 1/16th brass tubing). The final bars are stainless tube and RB Motion rod ends.
  3. Had to work all weekend so not much time for modeling, Back to the transmission to clean up and refine. Remove the paint from the transmission shield for a little bling, added the fittings for the cooler lines and modified the rear engine plate to allow the lines to be supported on the way forward to the cooler.the chassis is getting close to getting a coat of paint. The dash will now fit with the front upper door side bars in but needs to be refinished after the surgery. The electronics tray in the passanger foor area has also be started awaiting final fitting.
  4. Great job on this update, the box is a big step up. All those wires, I remember when the wiring harness consisted of a mag kill wire and switch.
  5. Baby steps, mostly cleaning up previous work or redoing it for the third time ( door hinges). Fire wall and side fender close out panels fitted, but need finishing. Door had rear edge built up to close the gaps and now swings open properly and can be slipped off the prototypical hinge pins for display. Sanded and touched up the rear tins and added most of the door side bars to both sides. The front upper door bars have been left off as I have discovered a fitment issue with the factory style dash board. There with be some modifcation to the dash required, but the bulk of the issue can be handled by changing the order of assembly in that area
  6. First primer coat to see trouble areas that need to be addressed. This week has been all about the chassis and cleaning up joints and panels, rear tin installed as are the fire wall panels
  7. Finally the bead lock bolts arrived, .042 head and a .025 dia stem, 34 per wheel what a marathon but boy do they look the part. A huge thank you to Jeff Faris for the most kick ass wheels I have ever seen, and also Robert Bentley (RB Motion) for the finishing touch.
  8. Great job on the dash and read out screen Daniel.
  9. Progress today,templating rear tin and trying to determine the order of assembly. First set of templates, registration marks showing needed adjustments on next set. Also a method for making curved structures (eg wheel tubs) without heat. This method courtesy of Francis Laflamme. So simple I don't know why I didn't think of it. First the you need is a form of the desired radius, jar, bottle or in my case partially, used roll of masking tape.. Cut out two rectangles a bit wider than the maximum width of the tub ( allows for trimming). And long enough to to match the circumfrence of the formge out a roll of masking tape a wide (3/8 to 1/2 wide) old brush and your favorite liqiud glue. Oh and you are going to need a third hand for a bit. This next part has to be done qickly and neatly. Using the wide brush wet the surface of one of the sheets then press them together. this is where you will need the extra hand, IMEADIATLY wrap them around the form and secure with tight wraps of masking tape. Let sit for at least an hours (more is better) until the liquid cement is dry. Remove the tape and you have a curved smooth piece of material with which to build your tubs. I did find once I removed the tape the mateials radius did spring out a bit, but it is still very manageable. If I was to do it again I would go a bit smaller (10%?) on the diameter for a closer initial fit.
  10. Floor tins are fitted and installed, as far as the welded steel panels that will be painted chassis color are concerned. The parachute release handle has been fabricated and mocked up with the cables temporarily run, Aluminum and or C/F floor panel have be fitted but not installed waiting surface finish selection
  11. The 3D printer allows me the chance to get closer to what you fellows can machine but at a fraction of the cost to get started. What it can't do (at least at the level I can afford) is match the look and feel of the real metals. As you said another toy in the arsenal and BTW thanks for the kind words on the parts. Saw the doctor yesterday and everything checked out Ok, did adjust my meds slightly but just due to the amount of time that has past since they were prescribed.
  12. Because you type in English not American or Canadian LOL I get the same deal when I put the U in a lot of words.
  13. Great work on the transformer, pieces like this consume a huge amount of time as Francis said, and that's why I made a mold of the last one I built. It seems true for modeling as well as other endevours that the old 80/20 rule still applies. 20% of the parts take up 80% of the effort. I also applaud your dedication to all of your models, a true modeler.
  14. I've been under the weather for a few days, and also spending time setting up and starting to learn how to use my new 3D resin printer. But I did get some modeling done as well. Parachutes have been cast and painted and look to be good enough to use. Built front caliper mounts and installed them on the front struts, luckily everything fits and clearances are good.
  15. The new fabrication looks great, the logo is a nice touch and the inner window surrounds/supports are spot on.
  16. I'm not sure your introduction date on the TH400 is correct. It was first used iin 65 in Buick and Olds and the other divisions in 66. My 67 Caprice 427 car had one from the showroom floor ( In Canada as least). The TH400 found its way into race cars very quickly because of its three speeds and apparent strength. That being said the B&M is also quite likley.
  17. I've been out of town for a while, not much modeling done, I have been going back and improving some already "completed" sub assembliesand starting to add items to the body, quarter window supports and such also routing and installing guides for the chute cables and fire system lines, cleaned up, and replace the sutoff knobs on the Nitrous tanks. Also the wheel nuts and studs arrived but I anm still waiting on the bead lock bolts to arrive from RB Motion
  18. Congratulations on a well deserved win Daniel, and I think Francis is correct about future awards
  19. Francis, again you have out done yourself, the doors are jaw dropping. Fantastic work my friend!
  20. Francis I agree whole heartedly, enen though I have been involved with many cars and engines since the gold Moroso era, they do not replace the fact that these covers epitomize what my mind goes to first when race engines are the topic of discussion.
  21. Small update, I have decieded go a bit old style with Moroso gold anodized stamped alumimun valve covers and breathers, i have also come up with an upgrade for the kit starter motor and the parachute rough master is ready to cast
  22. Thank you Francis, it looks fairly good once it's sitting in the trunk area, but I may build a second one to eliminate a couple of short comings. The bracket at least can be cut down and mounted to the chassis permanently as I'm trying to get the chassis ready to paint but there is a long way to go there as well.
  23. The hinges look very good, and the doors appear to be operating correctly. I would call that a win.
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