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Ian McLaren

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Everything posted by Ian McLaren

  1. WOW John I'll take a complement like that any day, thank you so much, there is a lot of time and effort in this one, I just hope the balance of the build goes well.
  2. Big step today the chassis is in primer, not perfect but the repair are all minor.
  3. I had a couple of questions asked about what went into this panel, so to answer the questions here are the materials and the process Main body .200 x .300 Evergreen retangular tube (this is for 1/12th scale)grind off one of the narrow sides to give you a U channel, sand to required depth to fit chassis tube. Panel ends .125 square evergreen rod glue a short section at each end to cloes the ends of the panel. The switches are .030 for the handles ( a little over scale but look OK) and .080 dia x .040 hole photo etch washers. I used a brass L channel as a guide to drill the switch holes in a straight line, then paint the panel the color you want it, I chose Tamiya semi gloss black. Cut short but over length sections of the .030 rod and glue them in the holes don't worry how long they are as long as the shortest one is longer than you want the handles to be. Slide the washers over the handles ( I chose to do it before I installed the handle and used a drop of CA to secure both). At this point you can cut all of the handles to the desired lenght and carefully paint them with your favorite silver/chrome paint. The pilot lights are up to you, mine are from one of my wifes Diamond painting kits, but gems like these are available in most craft stores of model raillroad shop. Some are flat mount like these but most will require a mounting hole being drilled (very shallow) The yellow and red stripes are from a left over 1/72 scale aircraft weapons set. and the harness is just a piece of black wire that looked like the correct size.
  4. WOW Paul this is going to be awesome. Having a few Green Elephant kits sitting in the closet I'm really paying attention to how you are approaching the body on this one. Jeff built me a set of Halibrands for a previous project using those centers so I have seen your handy work in person, fantastic quality. I will definitely be following along on this one.
  5. Your work on the transmission is outstanding especially the netting, so precise. I just used some .030 evergreen rod for a switch panel and I agree with you on the shape. I wish someone here would step up and stock more Plastruct. Just one model railroad shop has any kind of significant selection.
  6. Working on detail parts, case in point upper switch panel over windshield 21 individual parts not counting the decals
  7. Yes I did but now live just on the outskirts
  8. Although I don't normally model these kinds of cars, they fascinate me, especially at venues like Laguna Seca or Pebble Beach. I can also appreciate the quality and effort you are putting into this model. You are doing a great job Andrew and I am following along and really enjoying this project. Well done!
  9. WOW it just keeps getting better and better Marcos, two thumbs way up!
  10. Great job on this one John, you are really capturing the essence of the real car, well done!
  11. This electronics box embodies the true essence of scratch building, precision, attention to detail, multiple materials and the willingness to redo it "till it's right ". Not to mention a step by step tutorial . Very inspiring.
  12. Starting to fit and properly align the four link. Judging from the pinion angle and how far out the slider on the wishbone is presently, all of the bars need to be shortened initially to establish the wheelbase, and the lower bars a bit more to dial in the pinion angle. That will also set the initial wheelie bar height at what would be a good starting point for a new car. All of the steel rods are parallel which also tells me the chassis brackets are alligned so there should be no suprises once the final bars are installed (these are scratch built from plasitc and 1/16th brass tubing). The final bars are stainless tube and RB Motion rod ends.
  13. Had to work all weekend so not much time for modeling, Back to the transmission to clean up and refine. Remove the paint from the transmission shield for a little bling, added the fittings for the cooler lines and modified the rear engine plate to allow the lines to be supported on the way forward to the cooler.the chassis is getting close to getting a coat of paint. The dash will now fit with the front upper door side bars in but needs to be refinished after the surgery. The electronics tray in the passanger foor area has also be started awaiting final fitting.
  14. Great job on this update, the box is a big step up. All those wires, I remember when the wiring harness consisted of a mag kill wire and switch.
  15. Baby steps, mostly cleaning up previous work or redoing it for the third time ( door hinges). Fire wall and side fender close out panels fitted, but need finishing. Door had rear edge built up to close the gaps and now swings open properly and can be slipped off the prototypical hinge pins for display. Sanded and touched up the rear tins and added most of the door side bars to both sides. The front upper door bars have been left off as I have discovered a fitment issue with the factory style dash board. There with be some modifcation to the dash required, but the bulk of the issue can be handled by changing the order of assembly in that area
  16. First primer coat to see trouble areas that need to be addressed. This week has been all about the chassis and cleaning up joints and panels, rear tin installed as are the fire wall panels
  17. Finally the bead lock bolts arrived, .042 head and a .025 dia stem, 34 per wheel what a marathon but boy do they look the part. A huge thank you to Jeff Faris for the most kick ass wheels I have ever seen, and also Robert Bentley (RB Motion) for the finishing touch.
  18. Great job on the dash and read out screen Daniel.
  19. Progress today,templating rear tin and trying to determine the order of assembly. First set of templates, registration marks showing needed adjustments on next set. Also a method for making curved structures (eg wheel tubs) without heat. This method courtesy of Francis Laflamme. So simple I don't know why I didn't think of it. First the you need is a form of the desired radius, jar, bottle or in my case partially, used roll of masking tape.. Cut out two rectangles a bit wider than the maximum width of the tub ( allows for trimming). And long enough to to match the circumfrence of the formge out a roll of masking tape a wide (3/8 to 1/2 wide) old brush and your favorite liqiud glue. Oh and you are going to need a third hand for a bit. This next part has to be done qickly and neatly. Using the wide brush wet the surface of one of the sheets then press them together. this is where you will need the extra hand, IMEADIATLY wrap them around the form and secure with tight wraps of masking tape. Let sit for at least an hours (more is better) until the liquid cement is dry. Remove the tape and you have a curved smooth piece of material with which to build your tubs. I did find once I removed the tape the mateials radius did spring out a bit, but it is still very manageable. If I was to do it again I would go a bit smaller (10%?) on the diameter for a closer initial fit.
  20. Floor tins are fitted and installed, as far as the welded steel panels that will be painted chassis color are concerned. The parachute release handle has been fabricated and mocked up with the cables temporarily run, Aluminum and or C/F floor panel have be fitted but not installed waiting surface finish selection
  21. The 3D printer allows me the chance to get closer to what you fellows can machine but at a fraction of the cost to get started. What it can't do (at least at the level I can afford) is match the look and feel of the real metals. As you said another toy in the arsenal and BTW thanks for the kind words on the parts. Saw the doctor yesterday and everything checked out Ok, did adjust my meds slightly but just due to the amount of time that has past since they were prescribed.
  22. Because you type in English not American or Canadian LOL I get the same deal when I put the U in a lot of words.
  23. Great work on the transformer, pieces like this consume a huge amount of time as Francis said, and that's why I made a mold of the last one I built. It seems true for modeling as well as other endevours that the old 80/20 rule still applies. 20% of the parts take up 80% of the effort. I also applaud your dedication to all of your models, a true modeler.
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