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Ian McLaren

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Everything posted by Ian McLaren

  1. Ian McLaren
    Spent a bit of time on the engine as it determines much of what happens to the plumbing of the front half of the chassis. Starting to resemble an actual car instead of three boxes of misc. parts..
  2. Ian McLaren
    The lines and fittings look great, and your friend is technically correct but if that valve is in the idle chech valve line you could leave it there as a trimmer in case the check valve leaks internally or sticks open. If it's left open the circuit works normally but if the check valve malfunctions as stated it will lean out the idle circuit and if stuck fully open may lean out the entire fuel curve somewhat. if the manual valve was then closed it would stop some or all of the bypass, therefore enrichening the engine as the bypass works opposite to what most people think, as you are limiting the fuel going back to the tank more fuel is available to the engine. It becomes a safety measure rather than a tuning aid. I do like your other explanation as that would add somee interet and humour to the story.
  3. Ian McLaren
    Great update Daniel, you have outdone yourself on the fuel system, everything looks great!
  4. Ian McLaren
    Model Building Tip Tired of paying too much for three feet of a single color detailing wire. here's a deal from Amazon.ca 260 meters / roughly 800 feet, pcv coated wire wrapping wire that has all of the colors on one spool. the OD of the wire is nominally .022" it bends easily and stays where you put it (very little spring back), Admittedly this will be of the most use on 1/16th scale and up. best part is the price $17.89 per roll CDN or about $0.03 per foot B08YRN46BP MUZIEBA. Just as an aside I paid $2.00 less as there is or was a redeamable coupon offered as well. Its real use is as a binding wire to secure parts together when soldering and also sees use in model railroading.
  5. Ian McLaren
    Pogress continues steering gear, master cylinder and line lok intstalled and plumbed.
  6. Ian McLaren
    It depends on the age of the car, some dragsters had a wiring harness that was comprised by a mag kill wire. Others like your current project are like trying to wire the space shuttle.
  7. Ian McLaren
    Today I started assembly of the chassis, starting from the middle and working my out of the cage one wire at a time. Order of assembly is critical as there is not much area.,even in this scale and access is going to get progressivly more difficult, I think I'm going back to dragsters and funnycars after this. LOL
  8. Ian McLaren
    Sorry Daniel, last night when I replied to your question I stated I used 1/4" material when I fact it was 1/8th" sorry for the confustion
  9. Ian McLaren
    Thank Daniel, I used 1/4" Soft & Easy Stretch interface sold by fabricland here in Canada. It has 4 very small elastic cords woven into it and I used the white. To get this effect I stretched it between two poles and sprayed it lightly with Stainless Steel anti corrosion coating ( made by SEM), once released the effect is quite good. To get the loops I took 1/4 inch black shrink tube that I stretched to a larger size to get the cord through. Heated the shrink tube and it's done.
  10. Ian McLaren
    Parachute attaching point and lanyardsbuilt and test fitted Parachutes are hand carved by me and now castable (these are the first two castings)
  11. Ian McLaren
    Firebottle assy finished and going in a box to await final assembly, pressure gauges added to both bottles
  12. Ian McLaren
    Love the butterflies, stealing the idea for the throttle shaft and retaining the butterflies and the fuel tank is a definate improvement. Two thumbs up!
  13. Ian McLaren
    It looks great Francis, more than enough to convey the look you are going for. Good to have you back if only for a bit.;
  14. Ian McLaren
    Quick and dirty decals. These are for those parts (like a fire bottle) that you may need to spice up a project but you either don't have a sheet with it on it, it's not available in your scale or it's for a manufacturer that no one has done a decal for. Also if you can print your own is it worth the decal paper and the time to scale it properly All you need is a color printer clear tape and some paper. Lastly these are not for on the body as they end up fairly thick depending on the paper and tape you use. In my case the fire bottle decal are in the interior and will only be seen through the rear window. HERE'S THE PROCESS Find a color picture of what you need on the net. Save the photo to your computor, Pull up the photo and print it. Measure the image compaired to what you need and calculate how much larger or smaller you need it. Print it a second time and used the printed scaling option to resize the printed image. Reprint and compair and adjust as necessary. Once you have it the correct size print as many as you need.. Used the clear tape to cover and protect you new decal and cut them out. Fasten to the model with a suitable glue (contact cement , glue stick, etc)
  15. Ian McLaren
    More detailing started, Rear section of the fire supression system, line routing finalized tanks require decals (have to make as I can't locate suitable ones in 1/12th) and bracket fasterers
  16. Ian McLaren
    Thanks John, There are more details on the way
  17. Ian McLaren
    It's good to hear from you Francis, awaiting your return!
  18. Ian McLaren
    Mock up of electronics tray tp make sure it still fits.
  19. Ian McLaren
    Ready for the belts, have to create Logos as there are no commercially available for Elite Safety Belts ( owned by a friend who is also a long time campainger of a nitrous Pro Mod).
  20. Ian McLaren
    Upgrading the seat, but going to use the scratch built mounting brackets from the prior seat.
  21. Ian McLaren
    Just finished my first 3D resin printed attempt and it worked, the file from Ron Olson of 3D Model Specialties, printed well except for a couple of rookie mistakes by myself. I now have a steering wheel, two fuel pumps two fire bottles, shifter, Racepak style dash displays, and multiple electronic boxes. More interiour parts to come shortly. MVI_0007.MOV
  22. Ian McLaren
    Thank you Steve, I can't take any credit on these (except for drilling the valve stem holes) They were made by Jeff Faris, who also did the rear wheels, and all I knew about them was a five spoke pin drive aluminum wheel and I have to say I am extremely happy with how they turned out.
  23. Ian McLaren
    Thanks for the kind words Donato, they certainly help the motivation on one of these long term projects. Truly appreciated.
  24. Ian McLaren
    So about 11:30 last night I was looking at this thing trying to figure out what didn't look right. Took a bunch of pictures and started compairing it to some real cars, then I remeasured everything and by 12:30 had most of the frame ahead of the firewall desoldered and back in the jig. Rebuilt both lower control arms, adjusted the front rails, cut both front struts apart and lowered the engine some. Net result the front struts now bolt in, caster and camber are more correct, front wheels are now more centered in the wheel opening, ride height is adjustable, roll cage is closer to the roof, and to my eyes the car now has the stance and feel of the real cars. By the numbers, the car can now sit 2 inches lower and the wheel base is down 2 inches as well, but still at 110. I've kind of been dragging my feet on this one for a while as the look kept nagging on me but now this thing is going together.
  25. Ian McLaren
    Great progress and as always a tip on how to do something a bit better, I love your approach to the valve cover hold down holes and the flange itself. That will definately appear in my future models, using the tube spacer/drilling guide is inspired if not easy to photograph.
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