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Ian McLaren

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Everything posted by Ian McLaren

  1. Thanks Daniel this is my third rack, the first was styrene, the second was mostly brass but had some sytrene bars added and this one will be all metal (some aluminum details). This one is by far the sturdiest and most accurate and so far the easiest to do. Once you get the heat deal handled (very hot and quick with a few heat sinks) brass starts to show itself as one of the easier building methods. Thanks for your tips!
  2. Starting to add bits and pieces to the chassis, front radius bar mounts integrated with the twin front body lock strikers,front part of the fuel system fabricated as well as puke tank initial plumbingand the start of the side engine mounts. Rear motor plate has the firewall sealing surface added as well
  3. Good progress Daniel, I like the pencil trick and the aluminum work is looking very good as well!
  4. I said I would show the process for the front tree supports. Here it is. Mounting the body Part 2 Starting on the front body mount structure (measurments based on 3/32 frame rails but the process is the same for any size) Main support posts are .093 in diameter which I fish mouthed to fit the 1/8th tubing that will form the saddles themselves, ID is the same as the OD of the frame rails. Next drill a .090 hole parallel to the notch ( it may be eisier to drill the hole first as aligning the notch to the hole is easier than the other way around). Next clean all of the pieces with 320 grit to promote solder adhesion. secure the now cleaned 1/8 tube in preparation for soldering as shown (I used aluminum furnace tape to hold the parts as is stands up to the heat of the process) Make sure to put flux on the areas where you are going to attach the support tubes. Cover the fished mouth end of the supports with flux (the tooth picks are to keep the solder out of the holes and also alignment guides). Solder the pieces together as shown and clean the joints. Then cut the saddle tube to release the supports, trim to size for width ( be carefull here as cutting and or grinding can heat the joint to the point the solder will melt). I used a disc sander to grind away the top half on the saddle tube (again be mindful of the heat) You now have a chassis stand that just needs to be cut to length to set the ride height. The photo show how I mount the supports to the body but you can choose you own path here. I use this method as it allows easy instaallation and removal that will be necessary throughout the res of the body mounting process. On final painting and assembly the plastic tubes on the body with be sanded down to scale for a proper bodymount plate. I hope this will be of use for some of you. Next will be adding bracing and support bars to stablize the main support tubes
  5. Back to the chassis and body support structures.Rear body retaining bracket built and attached , rear body support structure fabricated and installed temporarily (removeable for paints and other construction, front body stands fabricated and support bars added( also removable for further painting and tin work fabrication and installation). Final ride height set ( a bit lower in the front). This just about wraps up the structural work. Now it's about adding the detailing items, tin , brackets, lines and hoses, drive train etc. Still a lot to do but the basic frame work is now set. I'll post how the main supporting structure was fabricated shortly.
  6. Setting the chassis and body aside for a bit to work on the LPH1320 Keith Black Hemi. Constructed an Ed Pink style 14-71 blower and a vertex style Magneto, the block, heads and valve covers were as close as you can get right out of the package.
  7. John thank you so much, I love it when I can help other modelers learn something new or remind people of old tricks that still work.
  8. If either one of us manages to traverse the miles (kilometers) between our provinces perhaps we can in person.
  9. I'm liking where you are going with this model, as usual the work is top notch. I know all too well the mood shift after an intense long term project but I can assure you it disipates fairly quickly. Glad to see you working on the though, it's a good sign.
  10. Running out of superlatives, just know I'm following and remian awe struck. The brake assemblies are next level!
  11. A milestone dayThe first time the body has been fitted over the chassis, and the first time that the chassis is supported by both its front and rear axles as a roller. Tonight we drink!
  12. Fuel tank hold down bracket now added, also added image of the original rough template, corrected template on graph paper and cut out aluminum part before final shaping and polishing
  13. Front suspension is just about done, just need to build the front radius rods and finish cleaning up the axle. Looks like the front torsion bar will be functional once I set the ride height.
  14. Thank you very much Francis for the feedback! You are correct the jig does take some time to create (read several hours) but at the end of the project the savings will be measured in days. It makes almost everthing from here on much easier. Not only does it allow me to check for square, flat and twisted but it provides a secured chassis to attach to and work from. In the real world the rear end is attached to the jig and every tube is referenced off that. In a model that isn't practical so a partially built chassis helps construct the jig. Critical measurements on the jig are made and placed independant of the chassis though and then the chassis is checked against those to see if it is correct (it wasn't) and then corrected (it was). At this stage the corrections were rather easy but as additional bars and tubes are added the chassis becomes much stiffer and harder to manipulate. I highly recommend anyone building a tube chassis car even if your using a kit chassis make at least a simple jig, it will, I promiss make the build easier, better, and I think, more fun.
  15. I have been following this project kind of on a hit and miss basis as I mostly hang out on the drag race pages. I did however go back are read all 15 pages of this increadible display of talent, machining and just all around craftsmanship. The insights on dealing with brass and other metals will prove invaluable to my modeling. Not to mention the subject matter is a testament to racecar engineering and is fasinating in real life (Laguna Seca) but in this scale ------- no words.
  16. Thanks for the comment Daniel, yes an adjustable jig would be a great thing. Sadly the closest I have gotten is to be able to use a couple of parts from previous jigs. Doing a chassis like this comes with the same issues as building a real one all be it on a different scale, and forces you to solve the issue in the same way. Call me delusional but I feel the process somehow adds a dimension of authenticity to the finished product or at least in my world. LOL
  17. Small update, the chassis is located in the jig I made to make sure everything stays aligned. The chassis is located by the differential in the rear and a removable 3/32 pin in the front. As well as assuring the chassis is square, level and not twisted, the jig also sets the ride height, providing a reference for the body and its front and rear support structures, headers, and wheelie bars. It will also act as a secure structure for adding the tin to the body and chassis without having to install the wheels and tires to check the clearances. Also the front straight axle and spindles are built but still need brackets for the torsion bar arms and also front radius rods. Below are photos showing details of the chassis jig construction. first photo is the centerlines of the jig and front and rear axles as well as materials used, second photo it the differential housing mounted level and square and at the correct ride height for the rear tires. This has to be accurate as almost everything stems from this piece and these two lines.
  18. Thanks Tim, this seat went quicker than the last one, I guess I'm making some progress on this brass deal.
  19. Well another day with at least some progress. The straight axle and spindels are built but not cleaned up yet and the front rotors were printed and modified to fit.
  20. Tony and Randy thank you for the kind words, this Swindahl style chassis has really been a learning experience for me as everything has had to be sized strictly from photos, lots of measuring and comparing of pictures involved. I will probably post the scale drawing once I'm as close as I can get to correct and I know everything fits properly in case someome else wants to try one of these. Perhaps one of the Corvette bodied cars Al built.
  21. Thank you so much John, I'm not sure there is much extraordinary in this particular model but perhaps a tip or two along the way.
  22. More progress, rear seat support bars and seat belt bars added, seat is built but not fully detailed, needs weld beads and fasteners added. also spent some time on the reverser ( built a handle and detail painted the housing) also have to add the front drive shaft coupler and retaining ringI'm also including some photos on the seat building process from template to fully soldered. Below are the photos of the seat builing process,and Templates used. ALso it shows the assembly order and the use of iron wire to secure the seat and back panel to the chassis to be sure of a proper fit (also solder does not stick well to iron).
  23. Better day today as far as progress goes, a couple of additional bars in (seat support), motor plate roughed out and fitted to the chassis (needs some holes drilled). Removeable weight bar in position, can be removed for painting the chassis and the test, functional torsion bar, is sitting in front of the chassis. It works quite well but setting the initial ride height may prove challenging
  24. You just keep raising the bar Francis, I love it!
  25. Up graded bench area, and new Swindahl style chassis in the shop.
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