PHPaul

I REALLY like the rust treatment on the hot side of the turbo and the 5th wheel. Would you mind providing details on how you went about that?

I got to thinking about my hinge problems and thought more about the lack of contact area for the glue. I'm trying a modified version of Charles' approach using ABS tube along the full length of the door and brass pivots superglued into holes drilled in the body. The full-length tube seems to be providing plenty of contact area and the joint seems solid. Looking at the picture, I think the tube needs to be mounted ON the door as opposed to beside it so the door will fit flush. I'll try that in the morning.

Testors styrene glue is my go-to and works perfectly on styrene-to-styrene joints. The problem is two-fold: 1. Dissimilar materials. Trying to glue PLA (3D print material) or ABS (small tubing) to styrene is not working for me. 2. Very small contact area on the joint. While either Testors or super glue would probably work over a larger area, there's just not enough strength in this application.

Well, much like Thomas Edison, "I have not failed, I've discovered at least 3 ways that will not work." Superglue looked promising but didn't bond well to the styrene. Very little effort required to pop a hinge off, would never have survived opening and closing. I guess I'll have to try Charles' method with brass. Need to check my inventory, pretty sure I'll have to lay in more brass tubing.

I've been struggling with the hinges. The 3D printed ones work well, but they're YUGE! I got some smaller plastic tubing and discovered upon working with it that it's ABS and pretty much impervious to styrene-type glue. Nothing would stay glued in place. Tried some UV-set superglue this evening, and I think that's gonna work. If it does, I'll post some pictures. Lotta other stuff going on before Winter weather sets in, so it may be a while.

I'll look into it, thanks!

It looks like this hinge design is going to work. A bit large for the scale, but the truck is driven by a mechanic who's favorite tool is a hammer, so that's not all bad. Plan A is small, individual pins top and bottom, assuming that's strong enough. The door side hinges were glued in place first, then when fully set up, the full length rod was installed to facilitate placement of the frame side hinges. Full length doesn't look horrible tho. If I go that way, I'll need more brass stock. I've started fairing the body work with glazing putty, I see I missed a spot.

Somewhat humorous aside: I'm from the USA. We don't DO metric, it's a point of pride with us (or at least me...) to stick with the traditional (and admittedly unwieldy) Imperial system. However, when I started using TinkerCAD the default unit was metric and I just got in the habit of using it. Also, using 1mm=1 inch is VERY close to 1/25 scale which is quite handy when designing things from scratch. The metric system is kinda handy sometimes... Of course, if you quote me I'll deny ever saying such an heretical thing!

After 5 iterations, I went with something very similar to what @Jürgen M. used on his Jeep. Versions 1-3 were variations on a piano hinge but alignment and clearance was problematic. Version 4 was a single hinge as shown, Version 5 was just a size tweak to make the pin fit better. They are 3mm barrels with a 1.75mm bore and a 3x3mm mounting plate. Pins will be 1.1mm brass rod. Oversize holes are to allow for shrinkage as they cool. Now to assemble 40 of these things...(4 per door times 10 doors)

First set was very close, made a couple of adjustments, printing the second set now. They're a bit large for the scale, but if they work, a LOT less fussing than other methods. We shall see.

Hmmmmmmmm...printed hinges. Hadn't thought of that, I'll try printing a set and see how that goes.

Yup, mounting doors is going to be tedious for sure. Right up there with cutting them out to begin with. Do you have a specific source for the hinges?

Body is coming along. Several interior partitions to install between compartments and some filling and sanding on the joints. Plan A is to mount the doors as "plug mount" in the original cutouts. Trying to find a way to make hinges that are somewhere near scale and not too fussy to make. These look too big to me. Suggestions? I've seen some photo etch piano hinges but can't tell if they actually work or are just decorative.

Those are nice folding cranes! I want to build a knuckle-boom crane. I've done one and learned a lot but it's not even up to MY standards, which isn't saying much. I'll build another using lessons learned and more 3D prints. The first one was built from scratch with plastic shapes.

Crane print files on Thingiverse I posted the print files for the crane, feel free to download and use them if interested.

If you can use Fusion360 (I tried, learning curve too steep) then TinkerCAD is a breeze. Also free, just sign up on-line.

I created the files for the printed parts in TinkerCAD. The telescoping booms are just standard Plastruct shapes, I can get you the part numbers if you like. When I'm sure I'm done with the crane prints, I'll post them to Thingiverse and put a link here.

Thanks, @Jürgen M. I'm liking your day cab. Designing from scratch is a ways out of my skill set for sure!

"Precise" he sez... My work(usually) gets a little better with each project but I'm not sure "precise" is an applicable term just yet... Thanks, again very kind, the standards here are very high and I'm essentially a beginner. Thanks Gary, it's coming along. Not sure why the method didn't occur to me earlier.

Thanks Jeff, that's high praise coming from this group! In between scoring sessions on the body sides (old, arthritic hands... ) I've been printing details for the service crane. The hinge pins are (obviously...) temporary to check articulation. Once I'm happy it'll come back apart for paint.

Final layout of body. Transferring to styrene now.

First pass at the service crane. Version 2 of the base is printing now to allow more lift angle on the boom and provide a mount for the lift cylinder. Telescoping booms are Plastruct shapes, the brown stuff (boom stops, base, winch) are 3D printed. With some detailing such as hydraulic motor for the winch, lift cylinder and hoses, hook mounts on the booms, block on the end etc. I think it will do nicely.

Cancel that request for a crane print. I figured out a way to build one with a combination of scratch building and 3D printing that should be quite realistic. We'll see how that goes.

I cut down the poster board template and I think that's going to work. Just need to lay out the side doors. Probably one full height at the rear, two at the front and one over the wheel well. Also pictured is some of the stuff I've printed for the "load". Bumper vise (there'll be a diamond plate bumper full width of the rear) compressor with hose, welder and oxy/acetylene tanks. I want to do a crane and the one posted by @yh70 in the original thread is perfect, but it appears to be configured to be printed by a resin printer. If someone can confirm that and/or is willing to print it and send it to me (for a fee, of course) I'd love to use it.

@yh70 I agree, that's much better. Thanks for the picture, I haven't had much luck finding 10 wheel service trucks. I'm even planning on painting it red!