Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BIGTRUCK

  1. This ones gonna need some time and work but with a little extra plastic here and there , 1 missing tire and mag along with missing headlight assembly it should be EZ PZ, ....I hope. Got this in trade on this board awhile back and time to try and get it back in shape, .....again I hope.
  2. The only issue with this build was the front clear body has just a slight tweak on the right that causes a slight gap to the lower body side( 2nd to last picture). I did open the areas around the roll cage that was touching and tried hot water but nothing helped the gap.Other than that I did put rubber slicks on the back instead of the plastic ones , and added tire decals.
  3. Pretty sure it was always clear, the last issue with the tow car and trailer I think came in clear and clear amber.
  4. This BuyersChoice 2005 issue of the Piranha rear engine funny car looked easy enough and has a low parts count, so since I've never had a notion to do one here goes. The kit comes molded in grey with a clear upper 2 pc body. The front skinnies and rear slicks are also done in plastic. The chrome parts are pretty good hardly no flash. But some of the chassis parts does have some flash. Im going to leave the body clear and without decals but paint everything else.
  5. I spent my share of time waiting in lines to get in model swaps but the Feb 26th show was the longest. It opened at 9:00 I got there at 9:10 and got in at 9:40. Im glad the weather was fine and happy the shows are coming back stronger then the last 2 years.
  6. A glue bomb save of another showrod almost did not happen when the clear coat and paint crazed . I figured all the clean-up work time and started over prime,paint and clear. This time going lighter on the purple shade and adding wider front tires. Other changes to the build were new roof lights,chrome signals , exhaust pipe,new glass front and back ,steering wheel and column , tac, shifter and extinguisher then topped off with a roof whip & flag.
  7. As smooth as it was going when I shot the last coat of clear the finish started to craze. I really dont understand what happened as all the paint, pearl clearcoat and high gloss clear coat were all Tamiya. So off to remove all paint and start over. While the body was soaking ,I worked on the chassis which was in poor shape do to a glue overdose from the original builder. Only difference in paint this time was I changed the shade of purple to a much lighter one. Now to repaint the interior and get the motor cleaned up and painted. I also upgraded the front tires to a wider tire.
  8. Well I started a re-do of another needy build from yester-year "The Li'L Van" a Tom Daniels design from Monogram. It was released again in 1996 but this one I believe was mid 70's. It came apart pretty good but needed alot of clean up. Paint and glue were pretty thick. All chrome needed to be removed because of all the glue and repainted or done with Molotow, such as the mags. So far only a few items were from the parts box. Body , chassis and roof are close to being done. Once I get the VW engine cleaned up and painted , make 1 axle shaft , things should move along nicely.
  9. This build up of a 51 Chevy with a some what hopped-up 6cyl. dual carbs and dual exhaust with header , worn faded paint and chrome, and blanket on the front seat was more work than if I built it as a gasser or custom. The seat cover was made from a tissue coated with a mixture of warm water and Elmers glue sprayed onto the seat, when it dried it hardned and contoured to the seat and painted. All parts were kit parts. Wide whites were painted on. Bare metal foiled and painted Hunter and Light mist green then slight wear was being done as I was building.
  10. This kit is not a very popular kit, I ve never built one so gave it a try. I gave it a 60ish style interior build with fur and piping. I went with the drop top but it does come with a hard top. Built right from the box except the (2) spots , sidepipes, skirts and mirror. This kit was an early 90's issue.
  11. Still doing this 66 TBird, but now will be without the roof. Fur the interior floors in pink and pipe trim the seats in pink, add a chrome Targa bar and a few other goodies such as side pipes spots etc. .
  12. Ive never built a 66 TBird before for lack of interest but a custom one sounded alot better and this early mock-up with parts box wide whites and front and rear custom treatments along with parts box skirts and custom hood will work out nice. Targa bar open top or complete roof or maybe a half roof I have to see which way this is going to go.
  13. I started this in October and it fought a pretty good battle but its nkw done. It started as a 3D printed body only item and after I gathered up interior and chassis items I decided curbside was going to be my route. I tried my hand at resin casting simple items such as the : tires,wheels,gas cans, tools and tool box, light beacons and winch. Seat is 53 Chevy SD ,chassis is a modified Ford 4x4, boom, bumper,mirrors and cradle are made from evergreen plastic and glass is from clear sheet platic. Paint is Tamiya green and racing white all toned down with dull coat. Decals are Gofer everything else is parts box. Other than alot of sanding and scoring door and hood lines the only issue was when I bought this Jeep is seemed like it was not fully cured so I had to purchase a UV light to complete that.
  14. Progress moving nice now, the UV light worked well curing. Interior is next , then all the paint detailing. So far no more leaking ..
  15. Mounted my UV light to help cure this 3D print so I can get on with completing ...here it is in action. The turntable does not have a switch to turn on, the UV or sunlight activates it. 20221224_085131.mp4 20221224_085100.mp4
  16. I picked ip a UV Lamp on Amazon , I may be back in business soon..
  17. This build has been a nightmare from day 1 when a crack developed on the back of the cab. I fixed the crack and then noticed a wet spot next to the repair....another crack. After chasing 1 more wet spot and another coat of primer I let it sit for about a week. No more problems so I continued the build. I drilled 2 pin sized holes for levers and the next day wet spots appeared. I contacted the person who did the 3D printing and he said the leak means in areas it has not fully cured. My options are put the body out in the sun so the UV can do its thing to complete the process or hit it with portable UV light. Sun is not really an option where I live maybe until next April, I dont have a portable UV source that would help so Im boxing it up until next spring before trying it again. Besides the leaks getting all over the body and making the primer soft heres what I found out about the problem on a 3D site: Why Do Resin 3D Prints Leak/Explode/Pop? Resin 3D prints can leak or explode due to uncured resin being trapped inside the model. This uncured resin is trapped inside but is still slowly curing and expanding, so it produces extra pressure inside the model until it finally finds a way out. This can either leak, explode, or pop so it can be very dangerous. So until the next update on a sunny day next year, on to another different build..๐Ÿ˜
  18. ๐Ÿ˜That would have saved me alot of time and I would have missed all the fun and aggravation. But it would be a neat kit to have. MPC came out with a later (maybe a 1968 Jeep) version called a Commando.
  • Create New...