MarkJ

Thanks for dropping by, Jason.

Looks like you got the color just right, Jason. I believe I have this kit in my stash and will stay tuned for tips and pitfalls to look out for. The decaling looks perfect as well.

Thanks, Pierre. It's not going to be correct as a rivet counter would view it, but I hope to make it look somewhat like the Banjo chassis that this car used. Like I said earlier I could not have used a Nascar kit chassis and made it fit under the Camaro body. It's just too small and shaped a lot different than the Nascar racers of its time. I am using Nascar cup chassis ref pics from the late eighty's to modify this model's kit chassis into a Banjo chassis by adding some square tubing to it for the frame and also the rear suspension. I will be making longer arms to replace the short-armed chassis that the stock Camaros used. Well at least I hope I can. I didn't want to make a stock Camaro model and just put the right wheels and tires on it and decal it. But it sure is taking a lot of time which I really don't care about. Just hope to finish it someday.

Pierre, I find that food packaging is better than the clear evergreen styrene I have purchased. Somehow the evergreen gets scratches in it where the food packaging doesn't. That windshield looks just like the one in the ref pics. The tonneau cover and base for the windshield looks perfect too.

Just a few more bars. They are all .080 evergreen rod. It surprisingly bent without breaking where I had to bend it.

You've done it again, Dustin. Excellent work as always. Really would like to see you tackle a Nextgen kit. I'm sure the results would be spectacular. If you've already done one and I missed it, please forgive my old age memory snafuing again.

Wow, Andrew. Excellent job on the engine. Looks very authentic.

Pierre, you are doing your usual excellent job on the body mods. The cutting out of those doors is crisp and basically perfect. I usually try to avoid cutting out trunks and doors if I can. I don't trust myself not to ruin a body and have to buy a whole new kit which might be hard to find. Plus, it is very labor intensive.

The bucks you make and then the hammering the sheet metal is all new to me. Did you come up with this on your own or did you read up on how to do this amazing work. I never realized how pliable the brass sheet metal is. Are you going to paint this amazing creation or are you going to leave it raw brass polished up? It seems like a sad thing to do to cover this wonderful model in paint. I have never laid eyes on a finished brass model before.

Will you be polishing the clear coat? It already looks good if you don't.

Again, amazing work on this model. If you make spoke wheels for it, I will truly have to be helped up off the floor.

The cage is coming along slowly, like everything else I do. Been a lot of trial and error but at least i found a pretty good ref picture. Those vertical bars are just locaters to help me install the horizontal bars and locate where the vertical bars on the cage go. they won't be part of the cage.

Looks great Andrew. Not as dull as when I used it with a brush. I guess I got it on too thick. The engine is really coming together quite nicely.

Great idea using the epoxy to back up the area to be reduced. The rear fenders look so much better now. Much more like the real car.

After you finish this build with the one order Jason does for you, it might turn into multiple orders when people see how good it looks with the Borrani wheels.

Ben, looks like you nailed it according to the ref pic Ed posted above. Usually if you can mix your own colors, you have a much better chance of matching the paint.

Oh good. I found this right away, so I haven't missed a lot already. I'm sure you will work your magic and get the model to look just like the awesome ref pictures you were able to find. I'm staying tuned to this thread for sure.

Any of the three would be an excellent choice but I think your telling me you're doing a Mercedes Benz, which will be awesome and probably silver, I'm hoping.

Thanks, Pierre. I have almost got the basic cage finished so the rest of the interior should come along much better hopefully. I also need to change up the under chassis to also make it kinda resemble a banjo chassis which these cars used. There was no way I could have taken a nascar kit and used the chassis for this body. Again, thanks for dropping by

Pierre, Glad to see you're back. Sounds like you might be starting on a Porsche pretty soon.

The only problem I have had with molitow is you cannot touch it even after you think it is dry because it will dull badly. I have just come to the conclusion that alcadII is the only thing I can use to get any kind of good results. I found a silverleaf pen that works pretty good if you dont need a mirror type chrome finish. Hobby Lobby sells them.

Excellent job on the Olds. Really nice detailing in the trunk.

One of my favorite drivers. Excellent job on the Superbird.

I put the engine back in the box because I want to finish the chassis first. I've finally gotten to the roll cage. I always start at the rear and move forward. It's the only way I can get the rear hoop perpendicular to the floor because everything builds off of the rear hoop.

I wonder if the heat from the headers migrated up the steering shaft to the steering wheel during a long race. They sure snaked the headers very close to that shaft. I guess they had to. Man, that looks like you have your work cut out for you under the hood. Lots of stuff going on in there.