MarkJ

Got some work done using a pattern to get the wheel openings cut out correctly to match the decals that will be placed closely to them. I printed out an image of the car and cut it out to place it on top of the model body to use as a pattern. Also cut out a copy of the decal sheet printed on white paper to see if it will fit which it seems that it will. I will put a small lip on the wheel openings which was done on the real car. Those photos will be coming soon. Ran out of time today.

Thanks, Steve. It should be a fun build. Thanks, Carl. Can't wait to start working on some styrene for a change instead of these decal sheets.

Here is the target I'm trying to get close to. Sadly, not many good color photos of the real car in full race trim are available as per usual. Museum cars just don't seem to ever get it right.

Here is the reprint with the red stuff red instead of maroon. Bought some testors lacquer 1261 clear today to seal the decals. I'm not foreseeing any problems getting them on okay when I finally get the model painted and built. Should go on like the Camaro I did a few months ago . Those decals were made the same way

Thanks, Rick. I had to print another color sheet because the red came out too dark . Looked more like maroon. Now the decals are officially finished.

Finally got the color and white decal sheets printed so I can start building the model. The pictures below show how I used a flash drive and touch screen on the printer to print the white sheet on the laser printer. Don't know how it was told to do 11 copies but I only had one decal sheet in the printer, so it had to stop after one. Should have looked at it closer before I hit the print button. So glad this part of the build is over.

Thanks, Daniel. This process works but it takes a lot of time to get it done. I had to learn how to use the laser printer without being hooked to my main p.c. I use a thumb drive to insert the picture file, and it has a little touch screen you give it commands on. but it works and I only use it to make white decals that are backgrounds for the color decals. As long as the files are the same other than one being just black images it works. the black images print out as white images from the laser printer. I print the color images on my ink jet printer which makes sharper images than the laser printer can make. If a good decal is available, I will buy it over making it every time, like my last build that I was able to buy Power Slide for and those are always accurate and sized right. This model I could find no decals for it that looked very good or had all the contingencies that this build will need.

Got the left front fender contingencies changed over to solid black. Just need to get the right front fender contingencies done and I can make the black images sheet so I can use it to make all white images using the ghost white toner in my laser printer. It will all become clearer when I get them done and you all can see what I'm talking about. Basically, you have to have white backgrounds for color decals on any model that is not white. But if the color decal is black like Marios name, that does not have to have a white background. Probably lost anybody watching this thread a long time ago.

Finally got my airtime back. Posted the last two decals that I made and the final color sheet that is 8.5 x 11 inches. I'm working to turn the final color sheet into a white inlay sheet by turning all the images into black images. That way the ghost white toner in the laser printer will make a sheet of all the decals on the color sheet into pure white images for the white inlay sheet. Then I can start building the model. I didn't want to start on the model until I knew I would have decals for it.

Just the opposite for me. the Hyundai and Mazda dealerships are close by and owned by the same people who we had good luck buying our last big Silverado from. Had no use for the Silverado anymore and the old 2008 equinox was costing us a bundle on transmission work, so we replaced the 2 chevies with the Mazda and the Hyundai. Much happier with these two vehicles.

My mind is blown. Best build I have ever witnessed built from the beginning to end. Thank you, Charlie, for sharing it with all of us. You are going to need a truck to bring home the trophy this build should bring to you. Simply amazing work.

Gary, I'm guessing it's a Lexus because there is no badging on the sides except for the center cap in the wheels that looks like an L. Thats the thing about these standard sized SUV or crossovers. They all have just about the exact same profile appearance and taillights. The only thing that gives them away is the grille. I bet this is a fine ride indeed. I love my little CX-5 Mazda for trips and grocery getting but my fun car is my little Santa Cruz baby truck.

Thank you, Carl. I appreciated you stopping by for your support during the build. It was very helpful.

As soon as my airtime for the phone is not in jeopardy I will post some more wip pictures. Got the ford decal on the quarter panel finished and am now working on the 427 C.I. decal. Have to wait till the 22nd next week. apparently sending photos to my computer via my mail server takes up a lot of air time. And I was posting way too many pictures.

I'm going to take a rest on the wip . I'm using too much airtime sending photos with my phone. But you all get the jest of what's going on here. No bigee.

Thanks Jo, and Todd for keeping me from making a big mistake. I found ref pictures of the m-p product I had saved, and photos of the model showing I made a decal for it and its right next to the autolite on the Comet. I sure am glad you guys spoke up instead of waiting till the model was completed. That would have been a bummer. Weird how close the coffee -mate product is to the sealant and conditioner product in the way they look. It should be an easy fix. I will use the white label jar you supplied, Jo. It must have changed colors in 1967 because my ref picture shows that it is a white label and lid on the Andretti car.

Thanks, Jo. Let me do some more studying on that. It's not too late to change it. Makes more sense that it would be the m-p product.

Did some more work on the sponsor decal. This shows how when making the letters if you have a letter more than once in the word, you're doing you can just copy and paste the letter into the position instead of making a whole new letter. Saves a lot of time. I also just copy and pasted the big Bunnell word down to the small Bunnell word which saved enormous time. Won't be able to do that with the Florida word. Really don't like making decals. Very pain staking work. Also, you have to keep saving your work after just a few moves or the program just shuts down for some unknown reason and you lose all the work you did up to the last time you saved your work. That is truly a bummer when that happens.

I finished all the fender contingencies, so I completed the door 11 decal. Then I made a pattern, using the real car photo, to cut out the 1/4 panel wheel openings. They are just a little bigger and will have a lip on them. Then I started on the quarter panel sponsor that will be good for both sides of the car. I used a photo of the real car for a pattern to make the letters with the font tool in the program.

The front fender contingencies decal groups are finally finished. I will make one decal for each fender with all the images in them. Should fit just fine. It would take forever to apply each of these decals one at a time. I would go nuts. On to the numbers and sponsors and I can't forget the cubic inch decals.

Me either, Steve. My wife said if it looks like instant coffee maybe it was. I did a google search for instant coffee logos of 1967 and even though it's not coffee it showed up in an image search and I knew I had found it. Todd, this one is definitely coffee-mate. I guess they wanted to get some of that Daytona 500 exposure. Thanks, Daniel. There is nothing that special under the hood of this car, but it takes a lot of time to do the stuff under the hood and to do the chassis as well. Plus, a working hood is hard to get to shut flush which is a real pet peeve of mine when I see it on a model. Race cars have to have a flush hood.

Started working on the right-side front fender contingencies. Turned out that mystery decal on the right fender is Coffee-mate. Go figure. I just made a c4 decal out of the air. You can't read what's on the decal anyway when it's on the model because it's so small. That ad for Coffee-mate was published in 1967. You can barely make it out in that picture of the right front of the real car. 5th picture down.

Glad you are following, Gerald. That would be a great 66 to build. I have a 66 kit but I can't figure out who to build. I'm kind of leaning toward the Hutch 29 car.

Here are some more process views. Just need to find that c4 decal to have all I need for the left front fender. the jar decal is only on the right front fender. I decided to make a Kustom headers decal to put on this sheet to use on the Allison Monte Carlo. The ones I found on the oob sheet did not turn out well on the model.

The monitor on my old computer makes everything look wider and longer than it is supposed to be but when I transfer the image I make here to my other computer by way of thumb drive it comes out right. So, the car seems too long, and the decals seem too long when viewed on this monitor. I felt I had to reveal this. Sometimes you just have to work with what you got.