Beans

That would make sense. I just remembered I have a 67 I have sitting around just waiting for primer. Will test fit on that. Thanks for the heads up on what to look for.

Makes sense. If I was able to actually maintain focus on one project I might not have 5 different ones in various stages of completion.

Patience never being something I possess, I couldn't wait for my main model to show up before starting the engine. Hopefully the svt engine will slide right in to the 66 without issue.

Minor update?? You are gonna finish before Spring?

I agree on the 20"s. I don't get why aftermarket wheels always seem to be listed in 1/24 scale. When you get down to wheel and tire sizes the difference in scale is noticeable. Actual tire size seems to be an afterthought. But I'm just grumping... Still like the 20"s.

Bingo. That makes sense. Somewhere along the way i mixed this in with an uncompleted kit I was bashing. Thanks for the help!!

Have a parts tree I can't identify or figure out where it came from. Any help is appreciated.

Waiting on my base kit to show up. Scavenging the engine and some parts from this kit.

I was going back and forth thinking about using this kit when you jumped in. After looking at the frame I was glad you made up my mind for me. I was not looking forward to the molded in detail removal. Will definitely be following your progress. Can't wait to see what you do.

Ok I'm in. Took a bit to figure out what the build will be and my initial idea got snatched up so I will go with a 66 mustang hardtop. Should have the kit in the next couple of days.

This. 100%.

At some point it is just going to have to come down to whoever leads this thing to make the decision on the boundaries of the build. If we leave it up to committee we will never have a solution as everyone will lobby for the rules that suite the build they have in their head. I'm just going to hang tight until it all shakes out and see what I come up with after that.

So this then. Seems the best description I have seen so far.

www.scalemates.com/products/img/5/7/9/1373579-29-instructions.pdf

Also painted up the weapons box I made that will fit in the bed of the truck.

I have some misc. ones up here: https://cults3d.com/en/users/Joemama51/3d-models I haven't charged for anything yet. When I did the Supernatural Impala I didn't have a 3D printer yet and scratch built all the trunk stuff that I couldn't source somewhere. I am now in the process of creating STL files for the trunk box and then might move onto the actual trunk interior. Opening the trunk on that kit was not as easy as I thought it would be and it had to be build out a lot.

Got the interior mostly done. Added some messed up seat covers and the printed steering wheel worked out. Weathered the whole thing. I should mention I am horrible and taking pictures. But they did allow me to notice some fixes I need to make.

You can blame my impulsive nature and general laziness. I saw a kit at the shop, said, "I can make that work" boom. research complete. Didn't even stop to think there might be a better suited kit.?

I like Bill's description most so far. Keeping things strictly bolt on really doesn't give much latitude for a build. It becomes a straight out of the box build. And kits that come with an engine that isn't factory stock to begin with would automatically be disqualified. I like the idea of being able to modify as Bill described while keeping the general overall appearance of the factory car. That limiter is the challenge and if someone wants to build OOB then have at it. Given the fact that it is the Cannonball, an entire field of 1930s and 1940s cars with all the bolt ons in the world would be easily beaten by a stock 2000 corvette. FWIW, IMHO and all that, the primary goal of the group build is to have a car that is potentially able to compete in a cross country race for time. Then secondly is the limiting factors of the theme. That is what sets this build apart from the general build a chevy type builds. The theme shouldn't be so limiting that it takes away from the primary objective.

All sounds good to me...scary to think that 20 years ago was still in the 2000s. ?

My favorite lately is hiding the word "box only" at the end of the long description. It is usually obvious by the price but the general misleading nature of the listing irks me.

That makes sense because the more I look the more I find different examples. The way I figure it (which counts for nothing really) is if it recognizable as the model of car it is then it's good to go for Restomod. Something like this, probably not. whatever guidelines get hashed out I'll go with.

Great articles. The key take aways for me are, "the intent to restore it so it looks identical — or very nearly so — to the way it originally looked. That is, from the outside, it would be difficult for someone to determine that most restomod projects aren’t a fully-restored vehicle." and. "Restomod involves restoring a classic car so that its aesthetics match the original, but its engine, transmission, and other parts are high-performance upgrades."

Interior update. Bench seat wasn't going to work for me and what is the deal with the total lack of door panel detail? Back to the design and 3D printer and some new door panels were created. Also some cutting and fitting and the bench seat is no longer a bench seat. That is electrical tape holding everything together for now.

Could definitely use those bed rails and maybe the grill if the one I printed doesn't work out.