Jon Cole

It looks to me like the resins side window lower lines are too high. That line should 'kick up' in the front, under the rear view mirror, and the corresponding rear pillar location; not kick up, but should be lower than the top of the rear quarters. I had passed the resins at contest vendor tables, now I am glad I did. Thank you to the OP for this post.

As Futurebat referred to, the worst judging by far has to be small hobby shop judging. It's usually a petri dish of subject ignorance and favoritism. Avoid them. As for the chassis & mirrors issue, I personally do not understand the host clubs fear of handling of models, much less the builders themselves. Has anyone ever broke a model at a contest? Oh, I am sure it has happened... but I have never seen it. Why is this such a big deal? You can break your 1:1 car by driving it... do you never drive it as a result? Accidents happen. And model contest accidents, like other accidents, are rare. I have to believe the judges are trying their level best to be as careful as possible models. Also, many shows here in the northeast ask on the registration if you, the builder, do NOT want the model handled. Just put a big 'X' in the box. Do so, however, and you run the risk of not being judged on hidden features. I should state that my opinions are not exclusive to the IPMS, as I have never competed in their contests. You can, however, get a good deal in the vendors area on a car model... a friend of mine bought a Porsche 914 by Revell for $10. Had I been in front of him, I would have found it first!

I never realized there was a model of the World Trade Center. Any details, such as brand, price, availability?

I am sorry to hear that, Bill. I have seen the damage here in my state, and neighboring Vermont. It is devastating. FEMA will eventually be in your area, be sure to sign up for assistance. You will most certainly qualify. Your unemployment offiice will probably be able to help you also to recover some lost wages. Good luck, man. We're thinking of you.

Take a piece of scrap plastic, say, a small length of sprue. About the size of a scale piston & rod. Now drop that into a small container of whatever you imagine as the fuel you would use. Now quote the Wicked Witch of the West.... "MELTING! I'M MELTING!" That is what would happen, somewhere inside the block or heads.

8,000 members! Congratulations, Gregg!

Wasn't this about Dodge Chargers? 2 door vs. 4 doors? http://www.streetlegaltv.com/news/rumor-is-dodge-really-considering-a-two-door-charger/

Great pics, Chris. I have seen the T-REX trikes, but that one... must be on drugs! Sure is a lot of higher end cars! We just don't see stuff like that in Cow Hampster!

Your photobooth isn't too small, your model is too big! Nice job on that!

VERY like! That color looks like it was made for it.

Rom, that... is some amazing detail on that build! Those coil-overs look great! I have never used a tap thread before... how much would a set run for? Also, RB Motion stuff looks great also! Is that aluminum rod, or hollow tube? I have some K&S hollow tube, yet one size does not fit snug into the next size up. Example, the 3/32 has some play when in 1/8 tube. So I end up applying more epoxy than I like.

Mike, that stamp works! But I don't use it here. With so many 'issues' going on here, I don't need the hassles.

You know what killed my enthusiasm many, many months ago? I am stuck. The model I am working on needs coil-over shocks. Not from a model kit, but scratchbuilt. And I have made enough parts for a few pairs. But I just cannot get them right. "Close enough" doesn't work for me. Either I end up with two unequal lengths, or the bolt mounts at either end look uneven, bad, or 'off'. I put so much work into it, and I don't want lousy shocks. I have metal springs, and 3/32, 1/8, and one other size aluminum rod, I cannot think of the size right now. Does anyone make coil-overs in the aftermarket? Because at this point, I would consider buying some.

Naaa! I think you're over-thinking it, Ken! But your response is appreciated!

You cannot outrun a Motorola. Nor a spike strip (altho a few have been known to go around them)

I see this as a matter of choice. If you want to lock your own thread, you can. If not, you don't have to. I agree w/ comments that few will choose to lock. But, at least they have that choice. When it comes to issues of choice, and personal freedom, I am always for it.

Question- can the OP, after recieving one or more replies, then close the thread, halting further responses?

I like it. It's a sad state of affairs when we have to implement such rules... but, they have been earned. There have been so many warnings. Now, a more pro-active approach. It's a shame, and yet I can agree that this is necessary. Let it be a lesson to all.

Perhaps this kit...

I voted "Model" I think a large scale. The inside rear-view is always aimed to one side or the other on a real car. This one is aimed straight back. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

Boy, is that sharp! When I saw your name, I opened this... because I knew it was going to look awesome.

I got my basement wired. Now have two new shop lites, one over my Pace spray booth, the other over my tool boxes. Plus, more outlets! Outside, new motion sensor floodlite, and two GFI wall outlets.

What Mark said! U want a 2-door Charger? By a Challenger. That is what Mother Mopar calls them. The front grille on the Charger is no worse than other cars, and is in fact a styling theme of their line. Not each model, but enough to see that trait. So it doesn't have the 1968 nose. It's not 1968. Progress... you can run with it, or get run over by it.

When the retooled Ala Kart was issued, it generated a lot of commentary. Not always good. Nose was wrong shape, the Chrysler Red Ram Hemi was a tad on the small side (but works fine in other applications), maybe a few other issues. I like them for parts.

B-b-bad to the bone! Great job! That nose shot looks like it is from the movie.