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Pierre Rivard

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Everything posted by Pierre Rivard

  1. This is a very interesting discussion about surface preparation migrating to what the paint should look like. I don't think there is only one answer here but there is one key question we should ask ourselves. What is the topic and what should the paint look like to reflect that. Period correct off the factory paint job, meticulously restored car, new race car with vinyl wrap look? Answer that question first, then strive to achieve the paint to reflect that. Measurement of the paint finish has two key elements : gloss and DOI (distinctness of image). Gloss is the measurement of the amount of light reflected, DOI measures the sharpness of the reflected image. Good surface preparation and expertise in paint spraying of Ace's green hood have netted him the high DOI combined with semi gloss look reflecting a great period paint job he wants to replicate. The extensive and meticulous steps used by Steven are key for him to achieve the high gloss and high DOI he would want to replicate a high level paint restoration. Personally I like a period look of well prepared race cars from the sixties, typically polished lacquer jobs with relative high DOI but medium gloss and I adjust the preparation and material choices to reflect that as best as I am capable of. Not one answer for all, it's about what look you want to replicate.
  2. Thanks guys. I finished the wheel/tire set today. I only have the kit tires that I can make work for this build so I cut off the embossed Good Year. Better a no name than the wrong one as this car ran on Dunlops. A lot of sanding, flat clear and Tamiya "soot" weathering master to make them presentable. Painting the wheels was done with a brush. Paint used is Vallejo Metal Color and it works well for this application. Very little paint used, almost a dry brushing delicately done with a soft bristle. Flat aluminium for the wheels and Chrome for the spinners. I did not use the spinners supplied with the wheels, preferring a better shaped set from HRM.
  3. Looking at period pictures the car looks.... white? But if you want do do a bit of a pearl effect, then maybe a 3/1 or 3/2 mix of off-white and metal medium. Just an idea...
  4. Thanks Helmut, it was your discovery of these wheels that make this possible. I don't mind reworking these but it is not optimal. I sent an e-mail to Jack Modeling suggesting they develop an in-laced Borrani style wheel. I'd buy a bunch of them and so would others.
  5. The wheels on the 275P (as well as the 250LM) were a bit of a unique arrangement. The front are slim looking out-laced configuration and the rears a more classic Borrani style, inlaced with a deeper offset. The reference picture shows that well. Scratching my head (again...) looking for a solution I chose to try something similar to the setup on the Chaparral project (deepening the rear wheels) Starting point is with Jack Modeling Jaguar style wire wheels. They came in from France exactly one week after ordering. I received 2 sets, including 2 extra wheels (total of 10) with a bag full of spinners for 13 euros, shipping included! I plan to use the wheel unchanged for the front and modified for the rear. The idea is to use another wheel to mimic the offset and size the opening to cover the end of the out-laced spokes. I used HRM leftover parts for this but I can see doing something similar with other types of wheels. After some work to open up the HRM to the diameter I was looking for and delicately shaving off the front edge of the Jack wire wheels came up with this result. Still some finessing needed and the real test will be how it all looks after paint and working the tires a bit. I'll report back when that is done.
  6. Beautifully done Paul. The Red Bull livery has become an all time classic. Well done sir!
  7. This is really nice and great to see a less common livery. I totally agree with your vision of the model reflecting reality as much as possible. Your model looks like a period race car and I love that.
  8. Thanks fellas. You know how it goes, we start with a basic kit thinking will go quick but as we study period pictures and ideas start bubbling up we see all the needed add on features. I primed the girl this afternoon (first try of a true red Vallejo primer) and all the added features have blended in well.
  9. Looks wonderful, scratch building extraordinaire!
  10. Drilling o.5mm holes in canopy flange I fabricated. I'll be inserting 0.5mm silver painted bits at the end of the build to simulate the little rivets holding the trim pieces to the body. Slight mods to front end to reflect the opening as the car was. The kit only had one opening. I also added hooks for hoisting the car at pit stops. On the back side I built better exhaust outlets with drilled 2mm rod. The body is now ready for prep and primer apply.
  11. 4 lite scoops needed to be added on this car. two that I assume are fro rear brake cooling and two adjacent to the hood, use unknown. starting with 4mm and 3,2 mm tubes, slice end piece at an angle. Some putty to smooth out these to be added after glue has dried up.
  12. I sanded off the marker lights for racing number ID on the body sides and making my own with pins, so I can finish them separate from the body. Total of 8 needed for this build. A bit of finesse sanding to be done when prepping for paint.
  13. If we don't show our work and exchange learnings and ideas what's the use of the forum? The w.i.p. section is my absolute favorite. You see cool stuff happening, discover ideas and get inspired by subjects I might want to build someday. I post w.i.p. of my builds unless they are just OOB that do not have special issues. That's rare though because I always make changes to my builds. I do w.i.p. not because I think I have really special stuff to show but yes, occasionally, I might come up with an idea useful to others. The main reason for me is that I love the exchange of ideas with other builders and I welcome them posting ideas or tips on my own thread. It keeps things going and helps me figure out solutions along the way.
  14. Getting there. Still need to clear the wheel issue. That's right after I'm done with body mods.
  15. Yup, that wiper blade thing scared me but in the end it was pretty easy to do. Working on these old kits is always fun.
  16. Thanks Maxx. I'm making it up as I go. If you have any ideas don't hesitate to jump in.
  17. Work started on the body. Initial job was to try to correct the shape that looks odd to me. The 275P is a bit slab sided by design but the way the body is molded exaggerates the effect because the transition from horizontal to vertical planes is very abrupt. I was able to remove a significant amount of material thanks to the fairly thick casting. I also tackled the canopy to body integration, starting with taking out the molded in wiper, a first for my and quite a stressful operation.
  18. Looks like you have found the parts needed to solve the issue of the front and rear wheel configuration. The Protar wheels are indeed very finely cast. You have not explained what the Italeri parts are from though. Looks like the most useable of the 3 tires is the Monogram. Hope you will do the wheel/tire set and post. I don't have these parts available but working on an idea I will share when I get the parts together.
  19. yup, underside of body shell has "Monogram c 1964" molded in. It's crude but I'll try to make it more presentable.
  20. Looking good Mark. A lot of carving and sanding needed for these Galaxies but they look so good when you transform them into race cars. Your Fireball Galaxie was the inspiration when I tackled one of these 2 years ago.
  21. It was worth the wait Dave. Beautifully done, I am particularly impressed by the flares which flow seamlessly into the body sides. Lots of mods needed to transform it to the exact replica of the race car but that's what scale modeling is all about. Bravo!
  22. Excellent model Matt. 1/8 must be tough because the detailing is so visible. This car is one of the F1 giants and you pulled off a beautiful replica.
  23. Just caught up with this one Jim. You do beautiful work and your printing of nuts & bolts adds tons of realism. Superb work overall!
  24. This is incredible work Daniel. The level of detailing and finishes is mind bogling. Scratch building extraordinaire! Can't help but shake my head thinking of these old dragsters with the engine ahead of the driver, with the risk involved with blow ups. And to think that axle diff is so close to...well you know!
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