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Testors dull coat will work too if you don’t have anything else.

Well Enamels will gloss better than other paint will just the way they work, because you don’t have to wait between costs just keep it going until done. The hardener I’m sure could be used in other enamels, and I’ve seen 2K hardener be used in MCW with no issue. You can also thin MCW enamels with Mr hobby’s leveling thinner. He was using MCW hardener, but think he switched to the 2k hardener because it’s cheaper in the long run.

Being an airbrush user what I would have did in that situation would have been as follows. I would have taped around the area making like a big # with only the burn through showing. Than slowly built up coat after coat light n slow, and then blend in with 3K & 5K grit. Sure you can do it with aerosol just good distance, and lightly mist it on building up coat after coat. Just a suggestion for if it happens again. This isn’t my idea, but another user on here showed how to do this with fixing a burn through on clear coat.

Got this door panel done on the 65 Chevy impala foose. If it was better detailed the foiling would have been easier, but it is what it is. The first pic is the look I’m going for.

Make sure your PE is clean. I use lacquer thinner to clean, but dawn n water would work too. Depending on the PE, and where it’s gonna go you really wouldn’t have to worry about using a primer or metal primer that Mr hobby has or Tamiya. But if using primer make sure light thin coats, and then paint. Also make sure to bend etc any part that needs it before priming or painting. Basically if the PE is gonna be somewhere where it’ll never get touched like gas, brake pedal you could skip the primer, and just paint as normal. If you wanna prime the part example gas, brake petal part? Than clean PE, and attach it - let the glue cure, and then prime with whatever preferably mr surfacer, and then paint.

Hasn’t happen to me with the hobby yet, but has happened with gaming. Just didn’t wanna play anything, and everything I tried to play I just got bored. So I took a long hiatus, and when I came back to it - it felt fresh again.

Tamiya makes a great brush for dusting. Works really good with thin hairs that won’t damage even the smallest detail on a model. It’s pricey if you get it in the states, but it’s worth the money though and has large end and small end. I got 2 of them for $10 each from plaza Japan when I did my last big order.

Only enamels I use is Tamiya X & XF line for detail work etc. once you get into the hobby good, wanna use enamels id recommend MCW along with their hardner. I’m strictly auto lacquers for 90% of anything model related. MCW enamels can gloss up really nice, and be sanded, and compounded, and polished up really nice without a separate clear coat.

You probably won’t have the special tool I use, but you can get same results using the back side of a xacto blade by gliding it across on an angle. Then go over it with 600 grit sanding sponge. Same for the inside window, but use the sharp side of the blade to gently cut off the flash, and then smooth it out with 600 grit. But the way the rear end looks you could get away with 400 grit, and than 600 to smooth it out. Be careful with sanding let the paper do the work doesn’t need lot of pressure.

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That was the first kit I bought when I got into the hobby. I’ve yet to build it though, because I told myself once my skills get better I’ll touch it. I got about 30 kits that I simply won’t touch until than lol.

If you’re having trouble getting parts to fit with one coat paint? Then I’d dare say you missed one of the most important steps in the hobby, and even instructions will tell you this. ALWAYS test fit parts before you prime or paint. Could be something needs cleaning I.e mold lines, flash, pin marks protruding a little. One coat of paint shouldn’t prevent parts fitting properly- unless it’s too thick or just bad fitting parts if it isn’t flash etc. Also grey primer is your friend to show all imperfections etc on the part. Doesn’t take much to show, and allows you to double check your clean up work.

This is what you’re looking for. Good place too. I’ve ordered lot of stuff from them. https://www.usagundamstore.com/pages/search-results-page?q=mr color spray

Cool method, but I’ll stick with straws. Just think if that pipette “pops” off lol. Straw method with little tape at the end, and you’re good to go.

My friend she got me this for my birthday.

You got the new improved? Did you order directly from them or from other online sites? Id order directly from them so you’d get the new stuff, because other online sources probably still have old stock.

Good tip. I actually thought about this before as I have ton of different size Ferrules for car audio- just never thought it through.

Definitely good on the brain. Really keeps your mind centered and focused. Lego also is good as well, and it’s amazing some of the work both model kit, and Lego that folks scratch build. I started in the hobby late as I turn 34 in two days, and only been in the hobby bout two years or so. I’m hoping my son who’s 4 years old gets into the hobby when he gets older. Right now he loves taking things apart, and putting it back together no matter what it is. He will ask for a screwdriver faster than he will a juice bottle lol.

Never seen this style paint job on a car, but you did great my guy. Hats ? off to ya. I use Alclad black gloss base the one that a lot of people think is a primer lol. I dry it in the dehydrator @ 110f. But I’ve seen folks mention it before where you spray the chrome few mins after the gloss black base instead of waiting for the black base to fully cure, and then spraying the chrome on top. It’s a technique wet on wet or something like that I’ve read about some painters do with top coat and clear coat.

Never used it as a mask as I use Tamiya tape for that. But to remove the residue I use this product, and works perfect on clear parts as well to remove residue. This one bottle will last a life time lol.

I’ve been to a goodwill store before, and never found any kits. Been too few thrift stores, but won’t ever go back - because they stunk, and everything looked like trash. I was telling myself who in the world is buying this trash?

That could work too didn’t think of that

Sweet! thank you gentlemen for helping.

Must of had some of the old stuff. They got the hood stuff back new improved chrome, and it work’s fantastic. Great to work with ??