Dpate

Cool guess I'll have to wait for the chrome.

Site says out of stock when you try to order lol

So i have this kit IMEX Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat Boy Model 1/12 and the decals are brand new but they are yellowed. I've heard of methods like putting them in a zip lock bag and putting them in the window for the sun to fix the yellowing and than apply micro scale decal film. I've also heard using a UV lamp can fix the yellowing because the UV rays from the sun is what fixes the issue. I've searched everywhere and can not find any decals for a 1/12 Harley fatboy either.

Yes Mr. Hobby primer is amazing. I have lots of the grey and black and pink. Another amazing primer even though it's in a can is ammo by migs titan hobby primer. The black and grey are the best & it's 400ML cans.

I love this thread so much. Congrats on moving into airbrushing. I started the hobby using a iwata eclipse, and now have a total of 4 brushes including the PS.290 which is a beast. I to have quite a few tamiya rattle cans because i didn't know about scalefinishes or MCW at the time. I also have a ton of tamiya LP bottles, and Mr.hobby ( especially there primers), dspiae paints, alclads etc etc. The tamiya rattle can line up has certain colors you cant get in the LP line up so that's why i will still sometimes get a can and decant it myself. $8 for little over 40ml of paint is cheaper than $2.50 per 10ml bottle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233180864265?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 that's who i order my tamiya paint jars from. He's the cheapest on ebay and cheapest you'll find them jars anywhere really unless it's changed in other places. Tamiya jars are amazing fantastic air tight seal. Also if i may add a recommendation and that would be in the future if you haven't already is to upgrade to a tank compressor like one spraygunner.com sales called "No - Name" amazing compressor and big enough tank for airbrushing. Also better quality thinners like Mr hobby leveling thinner to thin ALL tamiya paints and mr hobby.

Yeah so how is he making he making a run of product if he's on vacation? Maybe he hasn't gone on vacation yet? Maybe he didn't actually get delayed? ????????????????????????????? lol

Odd question but are you taking the decal off the backing paper and than trying to set it where it's suppose to go or you're actually taking the whole decal still on backing after it's loose and than pulling it off while getting it into position? I know some folks like to take and sit them on a towel or something to get most of the water out and than apply the decal, but if there that thin i probably wouldn't do that. Decal should be able to slide around for a few before sticking that fast lol.

If you want to use super clean i would dilute it pretty good. Simple green could work but probably would need diluted too. I'm wanting to know what would be good to use too. I have some ultrasonic cleaning liquid from micro mark that's suppose to be safe on everything but it can clean oil etc off stuff. I haven't used it yet so I'm not sure. Dawn and water may work good too or even straight distilled water.

I figured since you already answered the question just right that i would throw in a extra lol. I should of been more specific.

You should try mr hobby self leveling thinner with tamiya even with there acrylic line. Amazing stuff! Tamiya's own thinner works just fine too.

Yeah the mascot car for BMF

Where did you see that at?

Probably old and worn out like AMT's molds are lol

If there old kits and not recently reissued kits. I would try using decal film on the entire decal sheet (follow directions on bottle) and than do the normal routine, but instead of putting micro set on first and than the decal just keep using water to get the decal where it needs to be either with finger or decal tweezers. THAN use the set & or sole which ever brand you use.

X is for gloss or semi gloss. XF is for flat. TS both semi gloss & gloss is there lacquer in the can. LP is there lacquer in the bottles like X/XF. AS is mainly for aircraft. There enamel line up is X for gloss or semi gloss and XF for flat etc .

Yeah there XF set is hybrid and LP are true lacquer. Can be thinned with mr leveling thinner.

Green stuff world, Alcad, Spaztix. If the surface is done right and the black base is right any one of the 3 will give you identical results that will be hard to tell apart. All 3 are amazing if the part there going on is perfect and the black base is perfect. Spaz is amazing especially for the price @ $12 for a bottle at hobby town for a 2oz bottle compared too what you would pay for 2oz of alclad.

You don't need to use dawn to remove dust when washing the body

You should apply your method too a spoon without using the dawn and see if the same thing happens. If same thing happens try a different clear doing same method on a different spoon.

He should just put all the bad foil on a discount and sell all the new foil original price of course. We will buy the new foil regardless if the old is on discount. The old will still sell.

Great info there. I guess I was ill informed on what i read about this stuff. I've read it as an oil based product and wouldn't work on lacquer etc without damaging it. So its safe on everything except anything enamel & chrome like alclad etc?

That's sweet! But how much shipment coming in before it's out again? lol

Yeah i have the tamiya panel line accent stuff myself but I've yet to use it. I'm probably gonna use it for my gundam and zoid kits. For what i do and the type paint i use tamiya panel line stuff is a no go on my car models because it's a oil based paint. I'm gonna get some good quality water based black paint and thin it down really good with some distilled water.

Airbrush discussions are like talking about politics lol. But I'll list these brands for you too do your research on. Paasche h. Iwata eclipse, Procon boy 280, Procon boy 290. Air compressor to go along with it would be the No name brand tooty from spraygunner. Amazing air compressor for the money. Either way $250-little over $300 to get you in the door. Better than starting the super cheap route and using a bad quality brush and hate it all together. When i first started in the hobby a year ago i started with the Iwata eclipse to learn on having never air brushed my entire life. Easy to learn & difficult to master along with technique and good habits. You will also have to learn how to thin paint etc if you don't already know how. There are alot of air brush ready paints like scalefinishes, etc to use on the market, but still learning too thin paint is a skill set on its own lol.

Do you like it better than other chromes on the market?