curt raitz

I've been selling my built kits on ebay for quite a few years. I prefer the "Auction" mode over the "Buy it Know" mode. I set my original sale price to cover my costs with building the model. Some have sold for a lot more than I expected, but mostly I'm just happy to recover the cost of the kit. ​Of course ebay and paypal get there share. I don't factor the time to build the model into the equation...because that was my enjoyment! I enjoy building, not collecting models. I primarily ship via USPS, cheaper than UPS and Fed Ex. The key to safe shipping is to "double box" them. I use tissue paper wrapped loosely around the model, placed in a box and surrounded by packing peanuts. This box is then placed in a larger box, with at least a couple of inches of space around the box with the model in it. I use heavy packing paper scrunched up around the box instead of packing peanuts. Less weight. The shipping costs a little more due to the larger package, but the model usually arrives safely.

Great Idea... I plan on making it down next year. Has a date been set?

Those "burn marks" is nothing but dirty Weldon #3 liquid glue. As you get near the bottom of the bottle the glue tends to get a little "muddy". I just do decals for myself, but I've got a friend with an Alps Printer who will print them for a small fee. I just need to get him the artwork. c'ya

Using the photographs in the article, from the internet and Street Rodder Journal I scratch built the chassis using plastruct rod. here's a couple photos of the chassis... It was fun...

This is a model of the restored Jim Miles Magic Muffler Fiat AA/Fuel Altered dragster. The original car had a fiberglassed 1948 Fiat Topolino body with a bored and stroked 331 Chrysler Hemi. Jim Miles built the car and acquired sponsorship from the Magic Muffler Shops in Southern California. In August 1965 at the Lions Drag Strip, as driver Gary Essman hit the throttle the bottom end of the engine exploded all over the track. A photographer captured the exact moment this happened. It seems that in the rush to get the car built, they forgot to torque the bottom end. Although it has Jim Miles noted as the driver on the car, he wasn't driving it at Lions Drag Strip that night. Jim had planned on driving the car, but after a bad accident in 1964 he he decided to stop driving. The restored car was done by Billy Corbett and Jim Miles. My inspiration to build a model of this car came about when I picked up a copy of the Winter 2015 "Elapsed Times" magazine. ​I scratch built the frame, modified the Fiat body in the AMT "Dual Dragster" kit, made my own wire wheels, decals and added numerous after market parts and pieces. ​thanx for looking'...

Very, very nice model John... I guess I'll have to check'er out at the GSL c'ya

Decanting is fairly easy, I hold a flexible straw to the nozzle and spray into a small glass bottle (Badger). I leave the bottle un-covered for at least 24 hours... "gassing" out paint that has been decanted does take a long time.

You just described about 85% of the guys who'll be there, hee-hee!

"Hope to meet you and everyone else from the board who's there. I'll be easy to spot. I'll be wearing a blue Charlie Allen t-shirt." All 3 days... hope to meet ya there...

Simon This will be my 1st GSL. I will be making the drive from Hollister, CA I'm bringing a few models, don't expect much...except a good time and putting faces with names. c'ya Curt

What's a "Moonlight Modeler" ?

Built pretty much straight out of the box, except for the decals (Studio27) and seat-belts (Repilcas & Miniatures)

Don't forget about your "white balance" adjustment, especially if shooting under fluorescent or incandescent lighting

Thank you, it's an old 1/12th scale Tamiya plastic model, it has been re-issued a couple of times

This will be my 1st time attending. Looking forward to meeting a lot of the folks I've met on this forum. ​and just hangin' with car modelers for a few days ain't bad, either

I've been working on this thing for the past year, finished just in time for the NNL West. Paint is Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum, decals are from Studio 27 ​thanx for looking'...

As promised more photos... That's All Folks thanx for looking'...

Finished, Almost... Sent photos to the Doc, he wanted to know if it was not too late to exchange the wire wheels with the larger wheels... No Problem, now it's finished... I like the big wheels, makes the model look "Mean" more photos to follow... ​thanx for looking'...

The bolt and nuts arrived from Shapeways/TDR Innovations: Decals ready to go, my buddy Steve did the "Dr Bob's Special" decals: here's some photos of our progress: back to the bench, thanx for looking'...

Yes William, it's the same model...I got in some serious "bench time" the week before the NNL West. Now that the NNL West is over, and a great show it was as always...here are some updates on the model. I created another jig for the zoomies to help getting them pointing in the same direction and attaching the header flange. Sixteen Zoomies ready to go... Just received a "Moon Style Fuel Tank" from Big Scale Dreams... I forgot to take photos of the engines prior to mounting them in the frame rails. Just got rolling on assembly and the next thing ya know every things in place. Spark plug boots are from RB Motion http://www.rbmotion.com. Blower belts were cut from a bicycle inner tube. Awaiting delivery 1/8 scale nuts and bolts from Shapeways/TDR Innovations http://www.shapeways.com to finish detailing the engines, etc. Got my buddy Steve working on a "Dr. Bob's Special" decal. ​thanx for looking'...back to the bench Oh yah, did I say this thing is BIG? c'ya

Holy Cow, you're right...I talked to so many people this year, the brain has not processed who and when yet, but I do remember talking to you. Are you guys going to Salt Lake in April? I'm hoping to make it this year, never been...

Art, I guess I fell asleep on this one... Didn't pick up this project until I read your response to Vince's NNL West thread. Very Very Nice...I did a little playing around with brass also, found it to be fun to work with. Sorry I missed seeing you and Paul at the NNL West, talked to Johnny T. a little thanx for sharing c'ya

Well I'm bringing a belly tanker, '57 "Suddenly" Plymouth, "76 Yamaha motorcycle and a Bar Stool racer...

I compared the cast valve covers to photos of them and realized cato was right...a little work was needed to get them right. here's a photo of the cast valve cover and a reshaped one: Here's the front engine painted and partially built with parts, waiting for my order from RB Motion (spark plug/distributor boots along with assorted nuts/bolts) to arrive. Rear end with backing plates/drum brakes painted. Want to put some "Zoomie" type exhaust headers on the motors similar to these: Failing to find 1/8th scale Big Block "Zoomies" on the WorldWideWeb, I realized I'm gonna have to build them from scratch. Easy - right! After failed attempts using a tubing bender to get a decent bend in 1/4" brass and aluminum tubing, I went with plastic tubing. Found some 1/4" Plastruct Butyrate tubing at the local hobby shop. Made a jig from wood to bend the rod using a heat gun to soften the butyrate. ​Now I need a way to get all 16 headers to be the same size, I resin cast a jig to assure each header was the same size: ​Just saw off the tubing that protruded from the jig and bingo...zoomies ​Just need to bore out the ends and attach to the header flanges. Both engines are nearing completion The only modification I see forthcoming is shortening the front crossbeam on the chassis because, the Ford 427 SOHC with the distributor out front causes the front engine to sit further forward in the chassis. more to come thanx for looking'...

One of my concerns on this project is the weight of the resin engines resting on the kit's plastic chassis. I went about removing excess resin from the parts to reduce some of the weight. For the chassis to clear the engine, I had to raise both engines 1/8th of inch. I fabricated motor mounts from 0.30 sheet styrene using the mounts from the kit as guides. I then attached the kit's bell housing 1/8th of an inch lower on the rear engine. Painted the engine Light Blue Ford Engine Blue...as the paint dries, back to the bench. ​thanx for looking'...