Casey

He will be.

You could've stopped right there. The '60s era Revell kits can be very fiddly and a real challenge to assemble.

Is that even, well, not possible, but realistic? To include sprues A, B and D from the '64 Plymouth with the tires, chrome sprue, and sprues C and E from the '64 Dodge kits? That would require molding both kits, then mixing the various sprues correctly for packaging, and then what to do with the leftovers? Don't say Parts Packs, as nobody wants a bench seat and roll bar parts packs. I just don't see that making good financial sense, essentially including parts from two kits, when the builder can only build one model from those parts. Now, if Round2 had the ability to open and close sprue gates on the Lindberg molds to limit which parts are molded, I guess it would be possible, but 2/3 of a kit still takes occupies the the injection molding machine the same as a full kit does, and the post-molding packaging sequence is far easier, too.

Revell's SnapTite kits are not aimed at experienced builders. They exist to get newer, less experienced builders buying and building Revell kits, until they have enough experience to advance to full-detail, glue together kits. A few of the SnapTite kit subjects might appeal to more advanced builders, so as an additional bonus to some, the '63 Vette and '57 Bel Air Hardtop both provide the body for kitbashing with Revell's other existing full-detail glue kits. The '63 Vette and '57 Bel Air SnapTite bodies are excellent, perhaps the best done to date, so I can understand how it can seem Revell is "teasing" the more advanced builder with them, but I don't think that's the case at all. Offering kits which appeal to people who want a higher level of detail but lack the skill (or patience) to complete and paint (the #1 most intimidating factor) a full-glue kit isn't an attempt to alienate more experienced builders, but rather an attempt to cover more bases and appeal to a wider potential customer base. I don't see how it hurts Revell to market the '70 Chevelle and '77 Monte Carlo as promo style kits to less experienced builders, though. The Monogram Revell 1/32 scale SnapTite line is aimed at kids with zero experience, and offers far less than the 1/25 scale SnapTite line, so in essence the 1/25 SnapTite kits could be viewed as part of a progression, bridging the gap between the ultra simple 1/32 kits and the more complex full-detail glue-together kits. I've purchased the '77 Monte, '57 Bel Air, and '63 Vette for the wheels alone, and would do so again if Revell made more of the same. They've also subtly modified the SnapTite kits over the years, with the '63 Vette coming in both coupe and convertible varieties, with lo-pro tires/American Torq Thrust II wheels and stock full wheel covers respectively, and the '77 Monte has done duty as both a lowrider, street machine with some nice Shelby style wheels, and now has stock Rally wheels.

It's been said here many times by those who use a lathe daily- buy a Sherline lathe.

Just an FYI, the "rear deck" is a roll out cargo cover on the real cars and not a fixed package tray. The rear speakers were mounted in recessed nooks to the outside of the rear seat passengers. The hard cover in the hard cover in the kit is probably a concession to motorization, but the blue paint looks great on the LB body style.

I agree. The Revell 1/25 '69 Daytona is the best by far. The Revell (Monogram) 1/24 kit is much simpler and not as nicely detailed, but does go together easily. Avoid the AMT kit at all costs.

I e-mailed them the other day asking about that, so good to here someone from Revell will be in attendance.

You shouldn't need to apply a clear coat to a new decal sheet to get them to work correctly. Something is wrong with the decals is this is a frequent and repeated problem with Round2's decals. Has anyone here contacted them and let them know their is a problem with their decals?

You have the ability to post an questions or comment you like in the topic I linked to if you have something to say about selling here on the forum. Virgil's post isn't considered selling. He never mentioned any price info and according to the facebook page he linked to, the book isn't even out yet. I don't recall anyone having a problem when Kevin from Missing Link posted prices for his '71 Olds notchback conversion kit in the Resin & Aftermarket section and his post needed to be edited to conform to the no price/selling rule. Listen, I get that some people don't care for Virgil's desire to share things he's into and wants to promote, and the way he chooses to do that. He's followed the forum rules, and we've tried as best we can to define what is and isn't considered selling here on the forum. There will never be an absolute definition, and will never be a day when everyone is satisfied by how selling is defined here, but the general rule is don't state any prices, provide an off-site link when possible, and don't be blatant with your post. If people want to call favoritism, fine, but they should at least be fair and apply the same rules and standards they personally apply to Virgil's posts as everyone else's, including their own. Now, I don't mean to throw Kevin under the bus at all. I used his recent post as an example of what people shouldn't post and to point out there are more obvious posts regarding selling here on the forum than what Virgil posted. Kevin and Missing Link make great stuff, and I will vouch for it as a customer, so I just wanted to make that clear. I don't mind editing people's posts which list prices and/or offer to buy and sell (jn the Trade/Wanted sections for example) so that they conform the forum rules, but continuing to take thinly veiled shots at a member and his posts when what that member posts is fully within the rules helps nobody. If you don't like a member's posts, fine, read it, roll your eyes, and move on. If you think what's posted is not within the forum rules, PM me or post a reply, but when it's been addressed before, especially when it's in response to one particular member's posts, don't continue to accuse a fellow member of something which is neither true nor accurate and only adds drama. Gregg's said many times that he doesn't want the drama here, and I agree 100%.

You'd need to ask and discuss that with Harry and/or Gregg. We already have a Resin & Aftermarket section for aftermarket products and getting the word out, but does a book fit there? A DVD? I think so, even if due to the lack of a better, more specific place here on the forum to put such products. In my eyes, books, DVDs, and similar items are tools you acquire and use to build better models, so while they aren't typical model parts, conversions, or decals, they serve the same general purpose- helping you improve upon what's included inside a pre-packaged model kit.

I bought one on eBay from seller "stiffkitty" and the door gap lines were not very straight and it was twice as thick as a typical kit styrene body. The surface is not smooth and polished as you'd find in a kit or one of Motor City Resin Caster's bodies, and while some may not mind the non-smooth texture, I think it makes a big difference. I suspect the seller I bought from sells JF's lesser quality castings, as I have seen other A-100s here on the forum and in person at swap meets and Model Empire, and the panel lines were far straighter than the one I purchased. Some of JF's slammer models with cast in place windows are very thick, such as the Screechasaurus Chevy Astro van and the custom Frankenstude(?)but they're supposed to be that way. I've also had JF's Leadstone Cadzilla knockoff in hand and the body was definitely thicker than a styrene kit body, maybe 150% thicker? You do need to do some clean up as the window openings are rough cut and you'll need to do some thinning and lots of dry fitting so that there are no surprises come final assembly time.

Roger that.^^^ Easy-Off is the only thing which I've found removes the clear undercoating, and the AMT stuff is a real paint to remove at times. Easy-Off strips paint well, too, so it's all I use.

The Selling topic has been discussed recently, so please feel free to re-read the post and PM me with any questions: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70679&hl=%2Bselling+%2Bon+%2Bthe+%2Bforum There is no ideal place on the forum to place topics such as this. I think it belongs in the Aftermarket section, but we don't have a dedicated section for new product announcements, so it goes in General.

I think James is referring to the Fujimi Wing and Muffler type aftermarket parts sets, which were designed to be used with Fujimi and Tamiya kits, almost all of which are in 1/24, not 1/25 scale. If Revell had designed their "tuner" kits to fit in with the existing kits which are pretty much all from Japanese companies and in 1/24 scale, they may have been more warmly welcomed and accepted. It would be akin to Aoshima releasing an all-new '70 Dodge Charger R/T kit in 1/24 scale. Considering Revell's heavy investment in 1/25 for the '68-9 Chargers, people would cry "why didn't they do it in 1/25 scale!?!?". Would it have helped? Beats me, but I think the fact that Revell's Civic and Eclipse F&F kits were die-cast body kit based worked against their success from the start.

Interesting. It looks like a Revell '67 GTX body I left sit in PinSol overnight as a test. The plastic turned soft and the edges were curled inward, though not as extreme as the RF on your Supra body. Richard, do you have any unpainted parts remaining from the same Supra kit you can drop in the SuperClean as a control test?

Plus the current Impala SnapTite kit makes five police kits from Revell alone, and y'all want more? Yeah, I know, the Exped and the '37 Ford Panel are pretty much straight reissues with decals and barely qualify, but the '57 Ford and LX notch are new tooling, and the police version of the LX seems like it was planned from the start, so you've got some stuff to be happy about.

Yes, Pryo had a series of 1/16 T-based rods/customs (and I use that term very loosely), but they were very odd. The "Gee-T" may have been the most normal of the bunch: As I said on the last page it's got some nice parts, despite the clear roof/top and oddball body. As far as I can tell the Gee-T, the Serpent: ...Tee N T: ...and even the Laramie Stage Ghost kit: ...seem to share the basic engine, suspension, chassis, etc. with the body parts and details the main differences. The Stage Ghost kit looks quite different, but the engine and headers look the same to me. I don't know when the Lindberg Bullhorn T was introduced, but my guess it late '70s or so? It also seems to be the most realistic/normal of the lot, and would be great to have back.

I'm not sure any dedicated police vehicle kit would be a great seller, even if it was the Blues Brothers Monaco. Considering all the movie/TV related kits Round2 has and is releasing, I could see them being the company to release a Monaco kit if anyone does, bit that would also require them to tool up a new kit, and would a '74 Dodge Monaco be their best choice?

What specifically isn't working with the attachment upload feature, Darren? How far can you get with the uploading porcedure? I uploaded the below Gremlin image using the attachment feature as a test.

Nice clean engine compartment, and well, pretty much everywhere.

Wow, those Phantom Vickie rear tires are a tight fit, but they look good. What's the source of the SOHC?

What'd you chose?

It's only three weeks....keep digging and prodding in the meantime, please.