Casey

No, but please take it to Private message. That was a quick edit, too...but not quick enough.

When did the Chrysler Turbine cars debut? '63? It does look like Turbine Bronze in the sunlight.

Mr. Milano is pretty well connected in the hobby, so to speak, so no surprise he got this advance copy of the kit.

I think that's the #1 thing the vast majority of members here don't want to come here and read-- drama. Be it complaining about how this or that is done or handled, nit-picking someone's build to personally challenge and prove them wrong, saying how his forum isn't as good as another forum, and so on. I don't want to come here and read it, and from replies I've seen, PMs I've received, and what Gregg himself has stated more than once, (almost) nobody else does either. All those types of posts add nothing positive to the forum, and while it shouldn't always be rainbows and sunshine around here, the dramatic posts are going to be frowned upon every time.

It's got the right '80s stance and Gambler wheels, too. Odds are good there's a .38 Special or Loverboy cassette in the glovebox.

You must have an original issue kit, as RC2, when they re-issued this kit decided to label it (and the 1/12 Shaker Trike) as 1/25 scale on the box, when both kits are in fact 1/12 scale.

I think you mean a hot mess, no?

Are you volunteering to help compose a FAQ? Seriously, I think a FAQ would be helpful here, but I fear all the effort we'd put into composing one would be wasted and we'd constantly be telling people to "read the FAQ." Are FAQs a thing of the past? Are they still useful? I dunno.

That's one of the inherent compromises with how the forum categories are set up, as some models fit into multiple categories. As long as a 1/16 scale Petty NASCAR model is posted in either the NASCAR, Big Scale, or Model Cars: OTW or UG, it's fine. It fits in all of them, not just one.

I couldn't agree more. The overlap between the Q&A and TT&T sections is the heaviest by far for any sections here on the forum. I think that new section should be located immediately after Gen. Disc., too. Bonus points for use of a double contraction.

Maybe a p/e taillight bezel would work, if the part consisted only of the raised portion which protrudes through/past/beyond the tail panel, as seen here: I still think the curvature at the bottom of each bezel would be the most challenging aspect to do correctly is a p/e part was provided, though. Maybe the wheel lip moldings had yet to be fine tuned on the test shot, too? Or they could just be too thick. One other thing I wanted to note is the built test shot models I looked at held, and photographed at two weeks ago at the Milwaukee NNL appeared to be the same models which debuted at NNL Toledo in October 2012. The '49 Mercury Woodie looked a bit rough had been handled a lot, so considering these test shot models are at least seven months old and several people have mentioned and/or told this kit won't debut until November, that at least gives me the chance to be optimistic that the time between October 2012 and October 2013 will have been put to use correcting some aspects of this kit.

'nother one courtesy of yet another Dean Milano eBay listing: "From Aurora Models, comes an original instruction sheet for the Carl Casper Undertaker plastic model kit in 1/25th scale PLUS a color photogaph of theprototype for the model that would've been next in the series- The Carl Casper Ghost. For some reason, the Ghost was never produced and the only evidence of it is this photo."

After reading this I have to wonder what became of the design work and drawings mentioned above by "Bob" (Johnson?) of Accurate Miniatures. I think Dave Van mentioned having some knowledge of the AM liquidation and what happened to some AM property, and we know Revell scooped up the leftover, already produced Corvette Gran Sport kits, but what became of the actual molds and other design related materials from the AM Gran Sport and McLaren kits? Maybe Round2 got wind of Revell acquiring the 289 Cobra stuff (for lack of a better word) and decided to re-issue its own 289 Cobra kit in late 2012? Would an all new Shelby 289 Cobra kit (assuming it would be more accurate than the AMT kit?) even be a good idea? Makes me wonder if AM had similar (or any) design work done for a Shelby Daytona coupe, too.

Some good pics here, Bill: http://www.trans-amseries.com/Drivers/LanceSmith70Camaro.html

What's your method for cleaning up the soldered joints, Mark? Please tell me there's a quick and easy method which has escaped me.

FIll them in with sheet styrene, section and channel it, and get low.

Scribe a line around the tank's perimeter, and that little groove, if you leave a slight burr in place, will give you an edge to paint up to. Galvanized steel is pretty much impossible to replicate with any coating since it's not uniform, but I think Testors steel looks decent. Maybe mix in a bit of silver and some talcum powder to dull the finish a bit, too.

These?:

Which one? Or all? The width-of-an-Xacto-razor-saw sectioning is going to be a bit tricky, though. I think the vast majority of us would be worse off if all we had to discuss were kits after they'd hit store shelves. I live for the sneak peak, the test shot tease, the what-might-be-coming but not quite yet. Sometimes it's more enjoyable to discuss what might be than what it ends up being, especially for those like me who buy a handful of new kits each year with no intention of ever building any them. I think Dave Metzner at Moebius has shown that there is value in showing test shots to the modeling public, regardless if the public's comments, suggestion, and critiques have an affect on the production model or not. I get enough surprises when I buy older kits, so it's nice to see things before they're "new" for a change.

Yes, it is. The shape of each "spoke" is close to triangular in cross section, so that adds some strength, but when you get to the point of light being able to pass through the section, you've gone too thin. The flanges of these spokes are at the limit of what can be done, and again, the shape and structure of the spokes helps with stability, but you can only take it so far before areas are too thin to be able to withstand finishing and installation:

Third time's the charm I guess, as the body ended up with the smooth nose/chin I originally wanted to use: Bellypan still fits: I did some preliminary work on the canopy base, but this piece is very close to what I envisioned from the start, so I shouldn't have any issues working it into the body shell: There's still a long way to go, but I'm pleased with the progress I've made so far:

Congrats, Grandpa.

What Joseph said. Sometimes you have to find out what the limits are through trial and error.

Before Chuck responds to this , let me add that I'd be perfectly happy with a kit which required me to do nothing but clean up mold seams, paint and assemble it. I can live with that.

No, the Revell-AG kits are straight re-boxes of the Revell USA releases.