Casey

Just to bring this back around since there is a die-cast version, it might be best that a plastic kit based on the die-cast never happened. I have no idea which came first between the '49 Olds die cast and the idea to produce and injection molded kit of the same subject, and I realize this is twenty years ago we're talking about, but if the IM kit would've been anything like the "new " Revell '70 Challenger T/A R/T, we don't want it! Maybe that's why Revell's G-body Cutlass never made it past one displayed built up either.

I found this 5-slot wheel in a parts but don't know which kit this wheel was included with. Any help appreciated, but I have eliminated it being from Monogram kits using the Goodyear Rally GT big 'n' little tires, as the wheel's O.D. is too small to fit snugly in those tires. Any help appreciated. The plastic these were molded in is a peachy-tan. I guess you could call it tan or beige with a hint of orange. My gut tell me it's AMT, but I'm 99% sure it's not a front wheel from the '33 Willys kit:

Dang, did you get the Neon for free!? I've got a '97 Highline SOHC 5-speed. Be sure to sign up over at www.neons.org if you haven't already...and plan on replacing the fuel pressure regulator if it hasn't been already. Great score for $350!

The above three, as well as the current '70 Super Bee Pro Street kit, are the best donors, unless you're Pro Street-ing a very small/narrow car. The above three share the same basic chassis, and Rick Dobbertin's Pontiac J-2000 was the original kit of the three. It has a solidly mounted rear suspension and the rearend is very narrow- not very realistic and the wheels and tires will look way too "tucked in" in my honest opinion, on anythign but a compact car. "AMT '66 Nova" This chassis is nice, but it locates the narrowed rearend via leaf spirngs, which was common on streetable and non all-out-show-cars back when the Pro Street movement was kicking into high gear (late '80s). My only other complaint is the rear tires in this kit are slicks lacking any tread detail, and are both a bit too small/short compared to the typical M/T Sportsman tires.

This is the only other pic of Ed's '56 in the book:

Stay on topic!!!

These are from the "Hot Rods by Ed Big Daddy Roth" book: The original Ed Newton sketch of the Orbitron, showing the pods which appeared on the Road Agent:

There's at least one more- Revell's '56 Ford which they released after Ed's passing:

The grille looks pretty good from what I can see, Steve. Does your camera have a zoom or micro setting on it? That might provide a clearer up-close pic for us to admire. Also, any chance you're going to drill out the cast headlights and replace them with clear lenses?

Best. Post. Ever! Seriously, I have been wanting to see something like this for years. Thanks for posting this, Marcos.

If the leaf spring have a lot of arch and the nose of the car is way up in the air, they probably could've left the section of the K-frame between the framerails, but I would guess they removed everything down to the framerails instead. Is this a replica of an actual car?

It's not a freebie since you already paid for it the first time. Any good caster will consider a piece with flaws (be they pinholes on the surface, voids, excessive flash, or resin that never cured properly and is too soft) a loss and will not want a customer to have an inferior piece. Think of it this way- Rodger may not want you to fix the bad part and would prefer if he could send you a new replacement part to use instead.

I have to disagree, Lee. I don't see a '49 Olds as being a perennial best seller, even though I'm sure many in the 45 year old plus age group would love to see one. Which Studebaker kit was announced and never happened? Pics would be nice, too.

I've always liked the 1:1 '37 coupes, the Revell kit, and now I can add your build. I may have to find a set of those wheels, too.

Take him up on his offer. The resin mix may not have been quite right, and the resin never cured properly. It happens.

I picked up two Round2/MPC Zingers! Super Van kits today with the intention of returning one body shell back to a stock A-100 van and the second back to a stock A-100 pickup body. Feeling motivated, I started with the van body. For those who prefer to view a slideshow of how the work progressed, CLICK HERE My first step was to measure the thickness of the roof, which was .050". I had some .060" Evergreen sheet styrene handy, so I flipped the body over, placed it upon the styrene sheet, and traced the roof opening with an Ultra Fine Sharpie marker. I then cut out the patch piece and beveled the edges slightly, making it narrower at the bottom (inside) edges so the piece could not fall inside the body. I also tapered the roof opening to match, and kept slowly filing and test fitting the patch until I was satisfied with the fit. Since the roof has a slightly convex shape to it (viewed side to side), I added a slight arch to the patch to match the roof's curvature. Once satisfied, I used CA glue and accelerator at various points around the perimeter to tack the patch panel in place. Finally, I ran a full bead of CA glue in the joint all the way around the patch panel, then hit it with more accelerator. The patch was now permanently in place. Next, I needed to sand the patch panel even with the rest of the roof, so using 320 grit 3M wet sanding paper and a rubber sanding block I started sanding, making sure to not get too close to the drip rails. Once I had the panel mostly even with the surrounding roof, I applied another layer of CA glue and accelerator to the gap, just to make sure it was completely full and the roof would be perfectly smooth. I sanded again with 320 grit paper, then switched to 600, then 800, and checked my progress, but found three low areas (circled in blue): The low spots were so shallow I made with a few passes again with the 320 grit paper and the low spots were gone, so back through the 600 and 800, and this time I finished with 1000 grit paper for a very smooth finish. I ran my fingernail perpendicular to the joint, all the way around the patch panel, just to be sure there were no voids nor low spots, and found none, so the roof is now done. Next step, reducing the size of the rear wheel openings and adding back in the body character line. You can see how enlarged the openings are now:

I should've typed "I only remember to look for it once every few weeks and always seem to find it"

Yep, that's my screen name over at Moparts, forabodiesonly.com, and a few other 'sites.

Why is it that nekked ladies and trikes seem to go together so well? I remember seeing the Revell trikes in the '70s catalogs and thinking how rebellious and generally bad-ass they were...like this build.

I've never had a problem with Michael's accepting competitor's coupons. I think I've used Jo-Anne Fabrics and Hobby Lobby coupons more than Michael's coupons. I WISH Hobby Lobby accepted competitor's coupons, but they usually have the 40% off coupon every five weeks, so I can't really complain.

David, are the wheels you used from a kit, and if so, which one?

Wow, that's borderline stunning. Well done!

Everybody doesn't say that , Jimmy, only a few do...and you can just ignore them. Nobody needs to prove anything here. Keep up the nice work.

Stunningly beautiful work, yet again, John.

Looks good me, Jimmy.