Shark

I like it without the stripes

The finish is flat, so you will have to clear coat it. I have used it on Monogram Nascars with no trouble after a good primer coat.

One thing I do a lot is spray a base coat of silver lacquer before my color coats. It acts as a barrier and keeps colored plastic from bleeding thru, and gives you a good solid base that shouldn't affect the main color.

Sorta looks like your friend had an old Ramchargers car or else he liked the look.

Looks real

That was a very good article, thanks for posting the link.

I build mostly race cars and use automotive lacquer quite a bit. MCW and others have a ton of colors and can mix anything. So of these paint jobs have several different colors on them, with lacquer by the time you are done cleaning your gun, you can re-tape for the next color. Most times you can rub them out the next day. Plus they seem to cover better.

Can you image what a kit would cost if they produced one today with all those lighting components.

I soak in Super Clean, the one in the gallon jug. There is a pinned thread above yours about stripping paint.

I got several Nascar snap kits awhile back when I bought several kits from someone. Gave most of them away to kids. Need to see if I have any left. As nice as yours turned out, I may need to look at them again.

Looks pretty darn good, wouldn't have thought it was a small snaptite.

I have used a similar gun to the one in the last post, from Harbor Freight. It has a smaller cup mounted directly over the gun. Works great on larger stuff and I imagine you could paint 1/25 with it when you crank the pressure and volume down. I use a lot of automotive finishes for my paint jobs.

On shorttrackmodels.com there is a hauler section, don't know how helpful it would be. On the old (now gone) Randy Ayers website there was a long thread with photos of actual haulers. May be in some archive or something.

Do you wet sand the primer base before taping and color coating. I frequently use the same procedure you mentioned, except a light sanding to give the paint some bite.

You could try contacting the manufacturer and asking them. Some charge and some don't. I had a warped body and Salvino JR models sent me a new one. Also might use the Wanted section on this website.

Very nice, always a fan of the early 60's Chevies. Car really looks out of place in the first picture of the real one

Looks cool, like the white walls. What engine did you use?

The things manufacturers would do to accommodate the buying public back then. Not anymore.

Most of the time when the axle stub is plastic and already part of the suspension, I intentionally make the wheel holes bigger so I can get them level and squared up. I use a liberal amount of 5 minute epoxy glue in each opening with the frame and tires on a flat surface and some Testors square paint bottles keeping the tire perpendicular and toed correctly.

I have dealt with STS a couple times, always had good results. Not as quick as they said they would be, but you have to remember most of the vendors in the model aftermarket have full time jobs and do this on the side. Plus if they are good, I imagine they get a pretty good backlog.

Never been disappointed in anything I bought from them.

I know MCW did some at one time. Don't know if they are still in their line up. Basically a promo repop with the headlights molded in like previously mentioned.

Thanks Steve, sorry for the late reply, been busy.

Nice, I always liked that old kit. Will be following along. What direction are you heading with it.

Same here