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Shark

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Everything posted by Shark

  1. Your installments count as replies
  2. AMT Pro Shop (new tool) with photo etched parts is the best in my opinion. High parts count, nice distributor cap with holes for plug wires. They are still pretty easy to find and usually no more than a regular kit. If building for just plain fun and nostalgia, the old AMT
  3. I drill a hole in each corner, then drag the backside of a #11 knife between them.
  4. The ones Jason mentioned are made by Plastic Performance Parts (PPP), so anyone carrying their products should have them. You can try calling Mike, sometimes when it says out of stock, he may still have a couple or at least let you know when he expects them.
  5. Smart to start her off on something not to difficult, you get to see results pretty quick. Plus those are very nice kits.
  6. If you look up some pictures of Larry Wilson's 1963 Z11 Impala race cars it had some long homemade bars from square tubing. Sox and Martin prepped this car for him.
  7. If you are looking for Slixx quality, it's not there.
  8. Hate the Bleche White didn't do the trick. It probably is painted with automotive lacquer.
  9. Just looked at Harts Parts Resin, he has them. His stuff is first class and quick turn around. Lots of Mopar stuff
  10. At one time MCW was casting them, check out their website
  11. Look up wire ferrules on McMaster -Carr website. They are a mail order industrial vendor.
  12. Purple cleaner has been known to attack/soften many resins. If you can get some Westley's Bleche White tire cleaner, I would use that.
  13. I have painted on clear decal film with enamels and put dry transfers on clear with no trouble.
  14. You did a nice job on it. I love that old kit. Been awhile since I built my last one, after seeing yours, makes me want to do another.
  15. Model Car World is in the process of moving, but he makes a Corvair funny car body. Reliable Resin ain't so reliable.
  16. Slixx does some mini sheets of detail items and they have some with mesh.
  17. Did you build it box stock or any part substitutions. Where there any part modifications that you did, the stance looks good. Hoping mine turns out this nice.
  18. I am pretty sure Keith Marks makes decals for that.
  19. That body in not very accurate, heard AMT had lost their deal with GM and had to work from photos. I think it has recently been reissued in some form.
  20. This may be the hard way, but I tape up next to them with Taimya tape and brush or spray them with satin black.
  21. As far as clears, you can put almost any type over lacquer, but not the other way around. Lacquer products are "hot", meaning it can attack what is underneath. I usually prime with an automotive spray primer, then paint. I rarely clear. As far as concerns about MCW, they are the only ones I buy airbrush paint from.
  22. Thanks for the information Mark.
  23. Really like what you did. By studying your pictures, it looks like you cut the frame twice to get the length you were after. Do you mind telling where and how much you cut it. Those frames always looked a little long to me and that's why I haven't finished any of them. Looking forward to your next project you mentioned.
  24. Parts by Parks has a turned aluminum round open element air cleaner.
  25. If the PS you are referring to is the paint for the clear RC bodies, I primed my body with spray automotive primer before using it. Goes on very dull like basecoats. I let it gas out a few days and cleared it.
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